Femininity Anew. Tory Burch AW25

February 11, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Tory Burch is on a roll again. Here’s one of the most convincing collections we’ve seen during this entire New York Fashion Week, one that doesn’t try to be reinvent minimalism, but offers a mindful outlook on femininity. From the playful cardigans that can be wrapped around your body to velvet pea-green trackpants, from utilitarian leather jackets with pockets inspired by an Ingo Maurer wall organizer to unashamedly full, 1950s-isnpired flared wool skirts, this collection satisfies the mind and senses. The line-up doesn’t feel like an afterthought. Moreover, it doesn’t look like a copy of a copy. It’s Tory. The new Tory we have the pleasure to see thrive lately.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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This Is Real. Eckhaus Latta AW25

February 9, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Finally, cool, honest, not-overworked and real clothes in New York. Eckhaus Latta delivers a collection of brilliant garments that feel lived-in – and you want to live in. Thick knits, sensual jerseys, rough leathers, flesh-revealing cuts. Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta acutely observe how their friends dress on the daily basis, and this collection sums up their notes. Obsessed with the Steven Meisel-ish headbands for the guys.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Heartthrob Appeal. ERL AW25

February 7, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

For ERL‘s autumn-winter 2025, Eli Russell Linnetz dialed down on the usual theatrics, and came up with a collection for the Cooper Kochs of the world. By that I mean the guys with naturally-born, red-carpet-heartthrob swagger that can equally pull off a ready-for-Gstaad ski-look or a Giorgio Armani luncheon in a perfectly-cut jacket and flared denim pants. The ultimate highlight coming from the Venice Beach-based designer? The menswear accessory that’s hopefully having a grand return: the cummerbund. He styled it over a black shirt and oversized pleated pants a black shirt, and finished the look with a cocoon-shaped duvet jacket. I like this new direction at ERL.

ED’s SELECTION:

ERL Zebra-Print Quilted Puffer Jacket

ERL Donegal Polo Sweater

ERL Multi-Logo Intarsia Sweater

ERL Silk-Wool Swirl Knit Hoodie

ERL Bicolor Swirl Hoodie

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Fashion. Marc Jacobs SS25

February 4, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Oh, Marc. Thank you for reminding us all about the absolute joy of fashion.

With his pre-NYFW, less is more-production show, the designer sparks bold, unashamed happiness. Bubbly silhouettes. Cropped proportions. Big sequins. Bigger than life ball-dresses and teenie-tiny cardigans. Lego colors. This is fashion that doesn’t take itself seriously – but is far from being non-sense. Inspired with legendary women, from Rei Kawakubo to Queen of Hearts, this is Marc Jacobs’ ode to courage, beauty and uncompromising hope in better tomorrow.

“With precious freedom we dream and imagine without limitation… not to escape from reality but to help navigate, understand, and confront it, exploring through curiosity, conviction, compassion, and love.”

Thank you.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Goth & Fit. Rick Owens AW25

February 4, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

This season’s Rick Owens man is both goth and fit. He will show off his muscular torso while wearing a crop-top with padded, Nosferatu-sih shoulders. Tyron Dylan, Rick’s muse, looked like the yassified version of Count Orlock. The elongated, supernatural look was omnipresent in the autumn-winter 2025 collection. This time, the designer was interested in the idea of essentials. Cropped shearling sweaters and coats in black were cut up to the base of the rib cage, while double-face wool caftans in cream were cut down to the knee. Skimpy wide-leg shorts were (sometimes) made secure with thermal long johns of a type Owens only became an evangelical fan of after moving from California to Europe. “It’s about, How can I get rid of stuff and make the stuff that I really need as special as possible?’ And that is a good exercise when thinking about making clothes in the world the way it is today.” It was also a good exercise in showing clothes that, once acquired, you’d wish never to be parted from.