Icy Days. Sacai AW17

March 18, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

While watching Chitose Abe‘s Sacai latest outing, I had no doubts it was a proper, winter collection. While other designers go for mindless slip-dresses and flesh-exposing silhouttes, Abe layered, layered and again, layered. The duvet jacket with fur collar and colour inserts will be a perfect choice for freezier days. What’s more, Chitose shares tips on how to wear a) ankle-lenght dresses under voluminous outerwear and b) style denim midi-skirts when the temperature drops. The designer is a master in terms of textile combinations – I loved the way she mixed warm tweed with sheer, black silk in skirts and jackets. Brilliant!

Permanent. Céline AW17

March 17, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

For her autumn-winter 2017 fashion show, Phoebe Philo invited Philippe Parreno to create an abstract, fully rotating venue. The eclectic set was the ultimate sign of what to expect from Céline this season – contrasts. Philo has those moments in her career, when she goes extremely arty, and then, strictly minimal. This time, it was both – sharp masculine blazers and white crisp shirts were harmoniously balanced with incredibly big blankets carried by the models and rain-coats with map of Paris printed all over them. But it doesn’t matter whether we’re speaking of a classical, black coat, or long-sleeved dress in burgundy – it was all about comfort combined with a kind of elusive sensuality. Flowing, maxi-dresses and fringed skirts were worn by the models as if they weren’t on a fashion show, but on the street. Surprisingly, Philo went for something more simple in case of shoes, switching from the two-colour heels of the last season. Semi-cowboy boots, ballet pumps, flats, all in earthy tones. Just like the bags, which will carry anything. Those clothes are permanent: they are here to serve for years.

Céline

Bourdin and Americana. Nina Ricci AW17

March 14, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In Milan, we’ve got Jil Sander, where Rodolfo Paglialunga was trying, trying and finally successed in capturing the spirit of a label (unfortunately slightly too late, as he is said to be leaving the house) originally created by a woman with vision. Meanwhile in Paris, a similar situation was going on with Nina Ricci, where Guillaume Henry took his time to understand the brand’s rhythm and the founder’s codes. But autumn-winter 2017 is the clear evidence that he’s the right person behind Ricci, with fresh concepts and remarkable respect for the maison‘s aesthetic. His latest collection is brilliant, in every aspect. The make-up and pastel colour palette instantly reminded you of Guy Bourdin’s iconic Polaroids and visionary visuals. The clothes were femininely chic, but at the same time Wild West with all those over-sized belt buckles and flesh-exposing silhouettes. If you aren’t fully happy about the subtle nod to rodeo, Henry once again showed that he really can cut a great coat. And there’s a wide range to choose from.

Nina Ricci

Elegance. Haider Ackermann AW17

March 13, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

With a critically acclaimed debut collection for Berluti, Haider Ackermann‘s autumn-winter 2017 collection was a nothing to add, nothing to take away line-up. Although the designer seems to distance himself from earlier love for spontenous draping around the body, his new collection is as intriguing as usual. And it was all about black (with hints of dark blue and white). From leather slim-fit pants and knee-lenght boots to fur inserts and desirable coats, Ackermann decided to show his affection for daily essentials in the most poetic colour of all. Don’t expect something new this time around. Instead, appreciate Haider’s wearable, dark elegance.

Sainte Nitouche. Vanessa Seward AW17

March 11, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sainte Nitouche. “It means coy.” Vanessa Seward explained backstage of her autumn-winter 2017 fashion show. “Nice, but naughty“. That sign was on one of her ultra-chic t-shirts, worn over a delightful, floral shirt in indigo. With one boutique in Los Angeles, one in London and three in Paris, that’s evident that Seward’s style appeals to women. This season,the designer went Yves Saint Laurent-like glam: voluminous fur coats, smoking jackets and feminine midi-skirts were the show stoppers, just like beige turtlenecks. Vanessa Seward isn’t a designer who wants to revolutionize fashion, but she isn’t interested in temporary hype neither. Her clothes are classic and French, ignoring the fact that it sounds like a boring cliché. Believe me – it’s far from boring, but rather seductive. And easy. That’s why women across the world feel so affectionate about Seward’s brilliant pieces.