Neo – Nostalgic. Dior SS16

October 8, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Raf Simons and his tenure at Dior is recently all about revisiting the house’s history. Take the “1947” charm featured on the knitted collars – it reminds us of the year Monsieur Dior founded his renowned house. The delicate, organza dresses and hand-embroidered gilets had a studio feeling, as if they were just taken from the brand’s atelier. The collection was feminine, airy and absolutely Dior – even though it did not shock or excite as in case of previous seasons. It seems that Raf feels safe with doing well tailored blazers and clothes which are beautiful in its simplicity. A big plus for the gorgeous, kitten-heels with buckles.

Photography Morgan O’Donovan

Information Orgy. Loewe SS16

October 6, 2015August 21, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Loewe was like a wardrobe of an extraordinary lady who lived in the 60’s, 70’s and 80’s – you can literally find everything in there, from plexi rain-coats and logo-mania trousers to jewellery souvenirs she brought from her exotic travels and cat-loving prints. In other words, Jonathan Anderson let his imagination take over the reigns this season, creating a collection that feels like a cabinet de curiosites of different ideas, references and objects. The effect? I am appealed to that modernistic eclecticism, but the transparent pieces don’t amuse me. Together with the mirror-cracked dresses and fancy logos, the plastic part makes it all a mishmash, that isn’t fluent. Or maybe it wasn’t intended to be fluent at all? The chaotic manner of the collection was described by the designer as “an orgy of information” – well, it surely had to say a lot about Jonathan’s current obsessions.

Photography by Virginie Khateeb

Women Connection. Rick Owens SS16

October 5, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Without much effort, but only thanks to his vision, Rick Owens‘ shows are always most surprising during Paris Fashion Week. And this time, the designer did not disappoint. After the Estonian heavy-metal group performing on the runway and Brooklyn-based dancers dancing in their own, energetic style, Rick invited local, Parisian gymnasts to become… human back-packs. But, this shouldn’t be treated us a performance to be laughed at – serenity, grace and power of the way these women carried another, looking strong in Owens’ airy silhouettes, was disturbing, but beautiful. As the designer suggested, it represented the conncection between the women he dresses, knows and is constantly inspired by. And, “This Land is Mine” performed by Eska (Owen’s personal Beyonce) during the show made it the most emotionally filled collection of the season. And what’s interesting, the collection was based on plus size models – so, this means that the traditional clothes sized were in ranged from traditional model’s standard to the gymnast’s bodies.“I feel I haven’t done enough to accommodate them (plus size people). It’s hard to create a corner for people who might never come to me for that but I’m trying to find a way… I love a big girl who owns it unapologetically. Enjoy your juiciness.” Rick Owens knows how to effectively steal the spotlight, without pointless extras.

Freedom. Chloe SS16

October 4, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Freedom! 90’s! – these are the ideas behind Clare Waight Keller‘s best and most succesful collection at Chloe. This collection made me suddenly love the #ChloeGirl! It’s so beautiful and carefree… and comfortable! Inspired with women who defined the 90’s, Chloe for SS16 is a powerful nod to the decade. The show-notes consisted of a list of first names: Kate, Courtney, Corinne. Kate Moss, Courtney Love, Corinne Day. These names whisper of cool Britannia: where, away from Spice Girls glam, fashion was falling in love with the imperfection of a new style of fashion photography, and an unconventional way of wearing clothes. These three women that have their influence up to now, were imagined by Waight Keller wearing silk tracksuits, boho dresses and multi-coloured sweaters.

Taking a look at the details of these very feminine clothes, you can spot sensual lace elements, light sheer textiles and lovely tassels which appeared to be drifting in the air when the models gracefully walked the runway. Also, denim’s reign is continuing. Last season, everybody was obsessed with Chloe’s denim jackets – now, the ultimately chic shorts become the most coveted item of Paris Fashion Week. Just like colourful tops. Or the slip-tops that again make us all miss favourite summer evenings. well-done, Clare.

Chateau Walk. The Row SS16

October 4, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s a common thing for luxury houses to change the locations for their fashion shows. The Row did not show in its hometown, New York, but shifted to Paris, where, as Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen explained, “many of our customers are, who we want to support. As you see, we are having a show in a chateau, 45 minutes outside Paris.” But did this major change influenced somehow the clothes? The Olsen sisters kept it close to their very American style – straight-lines and loose silhouettes looked ultimately The Row. In reality, no big deal – the designers constantly play wih their signature blanket ponchos, maxi dresses and lady-like pyjama looks. However, after seeing this collection, I have an impression that Olsen sisters want to transform The Row into the next Hermes – luxe-loafers and these croco-leather bags don’t make me think of an eponymous label anymore. Just like the serene model-walk around the chateau’s garden.