Royal Tenderness. Simone Rocha SS16

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Spring-summer 2016 seems to be the most daring collection for Simone Rocha up to date. And not only because the show was staged in Buckingham Palace. This collection proved, that Simone Rocha is a designer who can freely play with her own signatures. The new season was all about blurring prettiness, tenderness and sexuality with traditional and high-tech techniques. Lace tops were styled with brown, neoprene trousers while the flip-flops and dresses were embroidered with crystals, which took the designer into a more couture level. But how did the collection and vision of presenting it in London’s most royal place appear in Rocha’s mind? “I found out I was pregnant while I was in Japan, working on a project with Dover Street Market Ginza, and then went on to Kyoto for a few days,” said Rocha. “I was suddenly seeing everything so intensely, it felt trippy!” Although the collection was not mainly about Japanese references, it had a lot to do with kimono silhouettes. But the main idea was deeply rooted in the history of British aristocracy – the ball-room gowns, pretty ruffles and the lady-like feeling.

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Childish Haphazard. Molly Goddard SS16

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She left her M.A. course at Central Saint Martins, where she’d studied under the late professor Louise Wilson, a year early to focus on putting together the spring 2015 collection. Her hope was that it would help her get a job. While she always wanted to have her own label, she assumed she’d work for someone else first. However, her real dream came true. Molly Goddard is one of the most exciting and fresh talents from London due to her secret weapon – the super cute, sheer tulle dresses. Inspired by the frilly outfits her mother and grandmother made for her as a child, Goddard gets her ideas from old family photographs and children’s knitwear patterns, and visiting Portobello Market, Alfies Antiques and the Retro Clothing Exchange in Notting Hill Gate. Her spring-summer 2016 presentation had some naive, hand embroidered skirts, checked crop-tops and of course, the signature pink dress which looks great with denim trousers or with nothing under. The chaotic and childish haphazard of putting clothes together is also the thing that makes Molly’s label so… enchanting. “At that age, you don’t even care what you’re wearing—and that’s quite a nice thing,” she says. “You’re wearing a big dress, then you put on your mum’s shoes and then you put your favorite T-shirt on top. When my sister was born—she’s three years younger than me—I used to wear all her clothes. When I was three, or older, I was wearing these tiny little dresses with my entire bum slipping out the bottom. I was just obsessed.”

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Flamenco. Proenza Schouler SS16

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Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler are approaching a new field of femininity. Their SS16 was like a quick vacation to South America – the heat of flamenco was unbearable, but appealing. The textiles were more light, which is a contrast to their last-season heavy wools and metal detailing; the attitude changed towards the Proenza woman, who is much more sensual and on-going. Exposed-shoulder-dresses and Cuban heeled pumps are the ultimate hits from the collection – just like the 70’s inspired, plexi earrings. However, the collection lacked a bit of fantasy, even though the designers had their dresses made by Parisian couturiers. It wasn’t a bad collection, but surely not the best one from Proenza Schouler boys.

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Gender Fluid, Ageism and Raw. Eckhaus Latta SS16

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Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta know how to strike New York. They don’t need Marina Abramovic to make a performance, they don’t need a celebrity-crowded front row. Eckhaus Latta is the brand, that makes the topic of gender-fluid fashion more accessible, and somewhat, intriguing. Their spring-summer 2016 collection was arty and avant-garde, but surprisingly werable. Also, it said “stop” to ageism – the designer duo’s 50+ friends walked the runway in sheer, body stocking jumpsuits. Nudity was the topic of the show, too. The models wore all those transparent blouses and mini-dresses with confidence and original, free-spirited attitude. There is a catecorigal difference between a professional model wearing an almost naked outfit, and a person that really wears the clothes. The feeling of Eckhaus Latta’s nudity is raw, but absolutely true. Although we couldn’t notice a usual blogger pack, the undergroud influencers of New York,  (Dev Hynes, Juliana Huxtable, Alexandra Marzella, and Grace Dunham, among others) presented amazing, voluminous silhouettes and edgy tank-tops made from the strangest textiles I have ever seen. I must admit – after seeing the second Eckhaus Latta collection in a row, I am  much more amused and overhelmed with it, than with the massive Givenchy show that took place earlier this week. Sometimes, less is really more.

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Detachment. A Détacher SS16

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The collection opened with a pair of midi dresses in an Indonesian-inspired floral print. Polka-dots covered the dresses. Pastel-shaded knitwear was worn in a playful way. I am talking about A Détacher, the label founded and designed by Mona Kowalska. The brand’s clients and buyers understand Kowalska’s specific, edgy concept – it is not about a trend. It is all about the piece of clothing. And her current mood for dressing. Notice all those interesting, but well hidden “reconstructions”! The softness of these long pullovers. And the totes which were carried in an effortless way. True, this collection is not shouting “FASHION” across the room – but many of these hearty clothes will find their space in the wardrobe’s of women who adore A Détacher!

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