Savage Purity. Rick Owens AW15

March 8, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

After the menswear show, I thought that Rick Owens will go full frontal, too, for women. But he totally took another direction – wild and gold were the keywords of the collection. The models had gold and sliver plated on their faces while hair of different animals jutted out of the savagely tied and layered tunics and dresses. The final effect is strong, I must say – the models looked totally out-of-this world in this type of styling. If talking of the clothes, we’ve got some interesting embroidery and detailing; the colour palette is earthy and surprisingly warm us for Rick’s dark world.

Astronauts. Paco Rabanne AW15

March 7, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

In the 20th century, Paco Rabanne wanted to create a wardrobe for modern women; in 21st century, we’ve got Julien Dossena who wants to make Paco Rabanne the future go-to label. The result for AW15 is pleasing – iconic chain dresses, astronaut-like mesh jackets (like the one worn by Aya Jones), voluminous varsity jackets and very wearable ankle boots. The zips were the key here, too – they were mostly everywhere, giving us some leg or exposing shoulders. The sheer fabrics there and there and brought sex-appeal which was slightly missed by Julien in previous seasons. In other words – Dossena feels like in the right shoes at Paco’s house.

By me for nuicons.com

Belle Epoque. Dries Van Noten AW15

March 6, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Although I adore Dries Van Noten, this new collection feels tired. So many themes at one time, so incoherent. Feathers, satin, brocade, flower, brrr. A Belle Epoque mash with all Van Noten archive collections. Of course, there were some good looks – the dandy girl, the military coats – but it all looked too crap in one collection. Even these velvet shoes which are art didn’t win me over. But because it’s Dries Van Noten, I won’t cross-out this collection off my list.

Sweet Love. Lemaire AW15

March 5, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sweet love. Pastels. Silent and sexy at the same time. Christophe Lemaire nailed it this season (as usual). The master of Parisian chic told us, how to look stylish with a bit of sex-appeal. Fluffy sweaters showing some nipples, wooden bags in the shape of female breasts, exposure of shoulders – and all layered up by chic capes and warm pencil skirts. If Lemaire’s AW15 would be a dessert, it would taste like macarons from Parisian Laduree patisserie. Or like a chocolate croissant with a cup of coffee. I am simply drooling over the styling, the models and the overall mood – sensual, eponymous and utterly simple. A definition of Parisian woman from Le Marais.

Modern Air. Coperni Femme AW15

March 4, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

What’s Coperni Femme? Whether or not you accept the conncetion of Copernicus to womenswear, this latest collection from Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant made a strong case for exploiting an idea of pure forms. A bit scientific, a bit cosmic (the name of the label isn’t lying), a bit feminine – Coperni Femme duo’s integration of circles were very literal (disks of leather, suede, and papery metal patched together with “topstitched” crosses). Even the shoes – with these circles! – talked geometry. Also, a lot of genuine ways of wearing the clothes appeared: a detachable ruffled cuff in blue could be “twisted around the wrist, extended up the sleeve, and affixed to the shoulder, or left to dangle like an architectural tail.” Genius.

In the meantime, as winners of ANDAM’s First Collections Prize and among the short list for the LVMH Prize, Meyer and Vaillant already gained the status of new era designers – they think through the future perspective. Although their AW15 clothes look simple at first sight, they are ultra-sophisticated and smart in the detail.