For pre-fall, Acne thought about experimenting with texture – lace mixed with knittwear, lurex combines with leather, patch-work – all of that brought an interesting fuse. The first look was all about “wild” knitted sweater which totally confused the proportions of the model. Also, there was the cute knitted hat in lilac – a must-have. The signtaure vests and coats are here, too, but in new colours. The only thing that disturbs me are the shoes…
Jonathan Anderson surprises. His SS15 was unexpectedly lady-like while pre-fall is very nostalgic – 60’s mini skirts, 70’s psychedelic prints and “granny” necklaces and bracelets. “Nothing works together,” he added gleefully during the presentation. “When something makes me uncomfortable, I resist the temptation to make it look good.” That’s visible- in this collection he mixes so many styles from the past, that the result seems to be modern, and surreal. A bit like the Soviet Russian architecture – at the first sight it seems to be modern, but in reality deep historical influences hide behind it’s walls.
Ukrainian Institute of Technology, Kiev
Presidium of the Russian Academies of Science, Moscow
Polythechnic Institute, Minsk
But coming back to the collection – “I’ve never been a designer designer,” he said. “I see it more as a look, what’s new right now.” And this—with its odd fabrics and peculiar proportions, cerebral and sensual—looks just that. New right now. But with faux cover which hides the old roots. The colours and textures combined with those curvy belts and emalia earrings makes me wonder. And I like when a collection makes me want to think, compare and research.
Lanvin’s pre-fall is so into Lykke Li’s I Never Learn album for me. The song Never Gonna Love Again matches perfectly Mica Arganaraz and Jamie Bochert in this gorgeous look-book. So dramatic, so chic, so elusive… over-sized suits, loafers, fluffy furs, maxi dresses and beautiful floral embroidery – and everything fulfilled with a dose of mysterious fog. Alber Elbaz just keeps his style. Non-chalant, but utterly dandy with a feminine twist. Baby can you hear the rain fall on me, never gonna love again, baby can you hear my heart cry tonight, I can’t keep running away, this time I can’t keep running away ’cause I’m never gonna love again.
Last pre-fall was dark and heavy. This pre-fall is light and smooth. Why? The Olsens went beach for this autumn. Surfboard inspirations? Yes, but in a very subtle way. Only the fastening zippers and fur ponchos worn like “surfers wear their towels”. And of course pool-slides with beaded and sequined straps handmade by a nonagenarian granny, The Row is known for its beautiful minimalism, but this season, as all the others for last few years, is perfect. The mood, the colour palette (lilac, beige, claret…) and textile usage. And the most important – everything is super wearable… again, The Row takes a bow.
Dries Van Noten is man, that knows what women want, and that’s not so common nowadays. His collections are always so clear, so feminine and beautiful… for SS11, for example, we had a blast of hand-painted florals; for AW12, Dries brought oriental mood to his chic silhouettes; for SS15, he made the models (and clothes) calm down and sit down on a hand-made carpet from Buenos Aires. Known for great styling skills, he was the first to make a woolen sweater, striped shirt and feather-appliqued midi skirt look so good. Forgetting about being shiny on the New Year eve- maybe one of those outfits will inspire you?
Design & Culture by Ed 