Poncho is the thing. It’s warm. It’s cozy. It’s perfect for cold days. And it’s really practical – it makes the look itself! In love with this very American invention! This Tibi poncho looks like a match in heaven with boots and a blue back.
She wears: Tibi poncho, Balenciaga boots, Givenchy bag.
Christophe Lemaire shows you each season, that to be his woman, you shouldn’t buy new clothes every three months. His woman is about one piece of his clothing; a trench coat, a white cotton shirt or a cashmere sweater. And you simply mix it with your personal style! Lemaire simply does the transparent fashion- it isn’t provoking, but makes the crowd look at you and say “she is chic”. In his SS15, the Parisian favourite brought lots of white and cobalt- we had blue pencil skirts, and interesting white shirts. The culottes tied with a loosely worn belt looked stunning with grey mules, while the tunics had it’s perfect place under the classical mackintosh. Possibly not much. But the golden rule is says, less is more.
First Paris Fashion Week show, and first impression. Anthony Vaccarello does logo. Even the wonder-boy of sex-appeal got touched by logo mania (read: commercialism). “Letters as a sharp graphism on the body. A wild, urban way to dress. I will be featuring prints for the first time in my collection.” Oh, I see. That’s why we’ve got the sweatshirts with A N T H O N Y V A C C A R R E L L O sign opened the show. Then we had also some very Versace-esque slim gowns (possibly an influence from Anthony’s SS15 Versus Versace debut in New York, earlier this month) with huge, gross A’s and V’s. But I still loved the leather pieces. And the skirts giving some leg to the models (like Mica Arganaraz or Binx Walton). This part felt much more Vaccarello-ish than the seriously Vaccarello-ed stuff.
Rodolfo Paglialunga, the ex-Vionnet designer, is now the creative director of the minimalistic brand Jil Sander. This quiet designer is now on the place of Jil Sander, who left her house a year ago, and this is his first show… and it’s very German. By saying German, I mean it’s super clean, super minimal and super effortless. But it’s totally not that, what Raf Simons used to show year ago (when Sander AGAIN left her label). For summer, Rodolfo used a lot of burgundy, blue and black. We’ve got some classical sweaters and shirts… In other words, yawn. But still, these clothes are very Jil Sander.
Allesandro Dell’Acqua presented a new fashion genre: military rococo. It’s deeply Italian- embroideries, surrealism, opulence- but also strictly casual (checks and waist belts). And it’s seriously lovely! For summer, No.21 presented an avant-garde fusion of ready-to-wear clothing and alta moda embellishments on skirts and shirts. There was also something punk about the collections, Crop tos had strong Scottish checks on them, and were cooly embroidered with crystals… and the shoes were all about Salvador Dali to me. The exagerrated ribbon had funny eyes attched to them, making the feet look pretty different. But that’s only a good thing.
Design & Culture by Ed 