Take a Bow. Jonathan Saunders SS15

September 16, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

I like that, Jonathan! This season is possibly the most strong to date for this British designer. In his files, he’d come across a piece of cotton voile from a Japanese mill as light—and pliable—as paper. The possibility of combining the two inspired a striking effect: paper saturated with blue, impressed on fabric, like artisanal color-blocking. “It’s about process,” master printmaker Saunders explained. He wanted lightness. He got it.The show was really about beautiful lightness, ruffles and ribbons. This fragile yet very dynamic collection had also a beautiful shade of blue in it at the end. It felt elusive and fresh. And, in comparison with last season, it was much better!

New Woman. J.W. Anderson SS15

September 14, 2014September 14, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Wow. Jonathan Anderson really shocked everybody during his SS15 show. Like, really. And definitely the master of modern adrogeny takes us to a new level of femininity. Me, being slightly bored with Anderson’s minimal, sharp tunics and dresses, thic tres chic (yes, CHIC, at J.W. Anderson) brought something controversial and interesting. With a lot of leather and giving a leg, the whole collection was “hid” under huge, black hats… That was a really beautiful, lady-like moment. Also, the jewellery was good… Wooden buckles and puzzle necklaces are major. Although I am not always a fan of J.W. Anderson collection (like for example last season), I always feel something new will be presented… Is Jonathan the Phoebe Philo of London? Think so. By the way, happy birthday Jonathan Anderson! It’s your 30! And- well- you did yourself a really good present!

Girl in Uniform. Marc Jacobs SS15

September 12, 2014September 12, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

As usually, making his show last during New York fashion week, Marc Jacobs does the biggest twist, showing whose the king of New York. Last season, Jacobs put clouds all around the huge hall. And now, for summer, we’ve got a… pink house. Yes! Was it a psychedelic vision of daily routine? Or something random? Or maybe something connected to peace? That would tell us what the big military trend do at the show! Khaki bomb dresses, sweatpants, huge pockets, backpacks (which are so Prada inspired!) and the universal black wigs of the models, which made the viewer concentrate on clothing. But all that cold atmosphere was made slightly sweet, with those little flowers painted on the over-sized tops. As usually, Marc Jacobs shows us something unusual (even the fact that he came back to the military trend means SOMETHING) and philosophical. And that was pretty it, if talking of NYFW, folks!

The New World System. MBMJ SS15

September 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley, since last season, are the girls behind MBMJ (Marc by Marc Jacobs). And they are really doing a REVOLUTION (see AW14) at this brand! For summer, the designers brought a new strong sign- The New World System. With this, written on the cool tomboy shirts, we all really felt something new and refreshing. For example the round, sculptural plexi handbag (it’s FAB). Plastic-like polka dots tops. Latex looking blouses and leggings. And very polished Dr. Martens boots…the collection was really colourful, and it felt super cute and kawaii! What else felt lovely was the fact, that the collection is totally bold, youthful, fun… and these things are a bit missed in present fashion world. Katie and Luella, keep on doing what you are doing- it’s MEGA ULTRA great.

Punk. Rodarte SS15

September 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Kate and Laura Mulleavy came back to their extraordinary roots, where punk and spirit plays a role! For Summer, the sisters did a major work. Their concept? Bring everything, that Rodarte woman is made of. Embroidery. Serenity. Punk. Piercing? Yes. The metallic half circles were glued to model’s eyebrows, to make a big statement in NYFW’s beauty. If talking of the clothes, we had every Rodarte girl- from the Harley Davidson gang, up to a sea siren and the downton NY babe. I am simply stunned with all of that! It simply takes all the words away. Simply see those Lea Colombo photographs from backstage.