When Thom Browne presents his collection in New York for women, there is alway a feeling that real fashion, full of imagination and fun, still exists. And so was this season, that took as to a fantasy world full of ghosts and Bloody Mary! The collection just like the last one was a masterpiece. Beautiful models walked the runway in only white costumes, with lots of details, fabric variety and different style, in fantastic make-ups (the boody red lipstick looked spooky on the totally white faces of the model!) and crazy hairstyles. In other words, Thom surely got inspired with tim Burton films and read lots of fairy-tales… for giving New York a REAL fashion shock. With this, who needs Haute Couture?
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Mash Up. Derek Lam SS14
The SS14 collection of Mr. Derek Lam in the Big Apple was many things at time- gingham prints that reminded picnic towels; Parisian chic in the middle of New York; African embroidery and forms in a much more minimalistic way. I don’t know what was the connection of all these styles, but I pretty much liked this collection, and mostly the creme coloured dress with a attached scarf and shoulders cuts… And I found many similarities to Celine’s earlier collection, like the buckle belts, shouldered jackets and the modern dresses. Oh, and the Gingham prints on turbans and dresses are also nothing new (yes, Prada?) but it looked still cool. Happy to see Derek back in full action (last seasons were really boooring…)!
Architecture. Vick Beckham SS14
Victoria Beckham did a really good job with her SS14 collection! It’s very in her style, minimalistic and beautiful. The collection was inspired with modern architecture- easy forms, black & white colours, truss triangle pattern on bags and dresses and many other showed the things that influenced Vicky’s clothes for Summer. But, although the collection is pretty warm (come on, golf sweaters?) and cold at the same time (well, these colours would for sure better match the next winter!), the collection is very good and I like it! The opener of the show was of course the new muse of Beckham, Edie Campbell, the British beauty, that season before was together with Cara Delevigne in every campaign and show!
Malboro Girl. Altuzarra SS14
Altuzarra woman is a strong business-cowgirl from the famous Malboro cigarettes advertisements. Yes, but didn’t it bored Joseph Altuzarra who repeats the same scheme from last Summer? Last year was like totally the same- cuts in skirts, tribal accents, shiny fabrics and this rodeo feeling. And after his amazing Winter collection I expected something much more sophisticated, interesting. But unfortunately, Altuzarra wanted to be more classic in his way. But is that alright for this young New York based designer? From Indian colonist costumes we move to super futuristic furs and then we comeback to the same prints with other ideology? I am very dissapointed with that collection. Sorry Altuzarra.
Logo. Alexander Wang SS14
The new collection of Alexander Wang was simply cool- certainly, Alex did feel that his label is in the status of the fame of his own logo. The collection was simply overflowing with the Alexander Wang black and white logo. And I did love it! This time Wang really excited me. The collection was all in white and black colours, with lots of transparency and funny PARENTAL ADVISORY sign that we all know from the films… Definetely Alexander Wang was inspired with the street fashion- lots of sweatshirts, shirt-dresses and sneakers were presented on really hot models! Hanne Gaby, Kasia Struss, Georgia May Jagger, Joan Smalls. Jourdan Dunn, Edie Campbell and the guest of the runway who full of grace closed the show- Erin Wasson, really made the event most buzzed about!
Design & Culture by Ed 