British Classics. S.S. Daley AW25

February 23, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Steven Stokey-Daley served us the great, British classics, revisited and refreshed, with good humour. Cropped trenches (Burberry could take notes). Cool pea-coats. Tailored bermudas. Full-skirts in floral prints worn with work-jackets (the look gave Frazzled English Woman energy!). And then there was Marianne Faithfull. A rendition of frilly blouse she was famously photographed wearing in the late 1960s was on the runway. A lovely chunky knit “Stay Faithfull To Marianne” was there, too. The designer was quick to make it clear he hadn’t jumped on the bandwagon of her recent passing. “Maggie Smith, Kate Bush, and Marianne Faithfull have been the three women who’ve always meant so much to me,” he said. S.S. Daley reminds us than we need London Fashion Week, even if it’s in (hopefully temporary) shambles.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Venus In Chaos. Dilara Findikoglu AW25

February 23, 2025February 23, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Dilara Findikoglu fired up London Fashion Week with her outing at Slimelight, the longest-running Goth nightclub in town. Lead by Lara Stone, a pack of ferociously badass women, clad in hyper-corsetry and second-skin chiffon body stockings stalked through the dark space, utterly entrancing the viewers. Entitled “Venus in Chaos”, the collection was “a divine feminine mutiny“, as the designer summed up in her press-notes. Botticelli-goth hair, a bustier covered with hundreds of shells, red velvet jackets (un)finished with punk-ish safety pins, unexpected cuts in the most “risky” places, tattered hems and ripped lace: all that created an extreme impression of total liberation from societal norms – and the pleasure of sexual self-possession. It’s easy to compare Dilara’s subversive work to John Galliano or Alexander McQueen’s, aesthetics-wise, but what makes her differ is her powerful female gaze that truly makes you believe these otherworldly women are here to break the patriarchal system.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Reclaiming. Luar AW25

February 12, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Luar closed New York Fashion Week with a much-needed bang. Raul Lopez named his autumn-winter 2025 collection “Pato“. In Spanish, pato means duck, as in the bird, but in some parts of Latin America, such as Puerto Rico, it’s a homophobic slur. “I wanted to reclaim that word,” said Lopez. “Especially right now – I’m not going back in the closet for no one.” That powerful bravado was conveyed in a collection that was a powerful, dynamic homage to all the fashion patos that shaped Lopez’s imagination as a kid: think John Galliano, Jean Paul Gaultier and Christian Lacroix. You could also sense Claude Montana’s influence. Major 1980s energy was all over these big shoulders, attitude-giving tailoring and extravagant feather brooches. A plastic, tape-like texture was a recurring motif. “It’s all hodgepodge,” Lopez explained. “The gay boy who’s at home playing with his mom’s jewelry, wrapping a towel around his head to pretend it’s hair, wants to wear a thigh high boot but just wraps a bunch of duct tape around his legs.” This week, fashion in New York had no voice. Until Lopez arrived with his vivacious outing.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Femininity Anew. Tory Burch AW25

February 11, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Tory Burch is on a roll again. Here’s one of the most convincing collections we’ve seen during this entire New York Fashion Week, one that doesn’t try to be reinvent minimalism, but offers a mindful outlook on femininity. From the playful cardigans that can be wrapped around your body to velvet pea-green trackpants, from utilitarian leather jackets with pockets inspired by an Ingo Maurer wall organizer to unashamedly full, 1950s-isnpired flared wool skirts, this collection satisfies the mind and senses. The line-up doesn’t feel like an afterthought. Moreover, it doesn’t look like a copy of a copy. It’s Tory. The new Tory we have the pleasure to see thrive lately.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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This Is Real. Eckhaus Latta AW25

February 9, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Finally, cool, honest, not-overworked and real clothes in New York. Eckhaus Latta delivers a collection of brilliant garments that feel lived-in – and you want to live in. Thick knits, sensual jerseys, rough leathers, flesh-revealing cuts. Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta acutely observe how their friends dress on the daily basis, and this collection sums up their notes. Obsessed with the Steven Meisel-ish headbands for the guys.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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