Men’s: SLIMane. Saint Laurent SS14

July 1, 2013March 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Enfant Terrible of French Fashion did it again just as he usually does- Hedi Slimane made me and all others, first of all excited, then scared, shocked and amazed in elusive way. Even, if his collections have a straight meaning, they are elusive. Hedi takes on his shows the ugliest in the world models, then put California garage band rock and roll music possibly recorded day before the show and some kind of Johnny Cash/rich boy from Las Vegas clothes. By the way, he doesn’t give a f***. I can’t say that I would wear any of these clothes (but love the shoes!) but I can’t say that don’t like the collection! It is totally different from other menswear, full of minimalism and prints. It’s as cool as AW13 womenswear for SL.
Cool biker jackets, leopard prints, gold, ties and suits. All in a very rock and roll edition, but in a more exclusive and “casino boy” look. Of course everything is extremely slim, that I personally hate (I love loose clothes) but thats totally other topic. For sure Slimane wasn’t at all in Paris while creating the collection. Los Angeles, hometown of the designer? California? It’s more about American coolness than European elegance. For this I respect Hedi Slimane as fashion designer!

Men’s: Heavy Metal. Rick Owens SS14

June 30, 2013August 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

What a show was that! When Rick Owens invited Estonian heavy metal band Winny Puhh (yes, that means Winnie The Pooh), he says he felt “an instant jolt of recognition. And Estonian is such an alien language that when it’s shrieked at you by a guy in a wolf mask, it becomes major.” They had it all that Rick needed for his show- scary, sleazy and hardcore look. If you don’t know Winny Puhh, and hadn’t a chance to know what is Eurovisia in Europe then I will shortly explain that. Eurovisia is a expensive, but cheap looking TV show that is hosted everytime in different countries of Europe. It’s popular in Europe, but mostly European are ashamed of it… And it’s demolic choreography, WORST singers of the specific country and the cheap, sorrow atmosphere. So, back to Rick Owens show- that sounds very interesting and different that he took these strangers for music thing for his show. Owens’ was called Vicious. That was the spirit Owens wanted—”cheerful viciousness, viciousness with humor. I felt like doing something ludicrous and fun.” The clothes- well, in rhythm of the music the models nearly ran. “Urgent movement and fierce athleticism were the driving forces of the collection. Long-sleeve tees, close to the body, zipped even closer, over shorts…sheer diagonals, perforations, and mesh tanks revealing the flesh beneath…leather tanks flying away into long fringe, fringed leather belts…everything moving” wrote Tim Blanks. Totally agree. That was something awfully mind blowing.

Biarritz: Zadig & Voltaire

June 30, 2013August 30, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Zadig et Voltaire is a French label with pretty low priced clothes that are a mix of rock&roll and Parisian Chic. The clothes are good quality and their boutiques are placed all around the world… But my favourite and most used (shopping!) is the one in Biarritz! With a double floor, walls decorated with Zadig photography full of travelling and many other cool things… It’s just like the brand- very cool! And the campaign that is inside with Jamie Bochert is mind-blowing. There was also this Pamela Love X Zadig et Voltaire collab that was for jewellery. Pamela (the NY based designer of super trendy jewellery) created an amazing collection with snales, skull, butterflies and so on… This collaboration is very sharp and comfortable. Just like the last on, with Gaia Repossi!

Men’s: Rick Owens 👽 Adidas

June 29, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

When I heard of that fantastical collaboration I was like no way. But it is all true. Rick Owens for Adidas or other side back. And the effect is mind blowing! It’s like the Rick Owens classical sneakers with high top, but in a more “fat” edition. Kept in a typical Ricky colour palette, these masterpieces that were shown during the Paris Fashion Week for men for sure got a much, much higher price tag than normal Adidas sneakers… But they look so good!

Men’s: Mature Cool. Kenzo SS14

June 29, 2013June 29, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

I was a little bit disappointed with the new Kenzo collection for men. The entrance was superb- a fruit mosaic on the floor, market stalls with Kenzo fresh juices and so on- in other words colours. But that was just the opposite to the clothes that were presented in a huge hall with tribunes around. Models walked on a circular platform very close to the front row, and then went up the stairs on the highest “stage” of this huge chamber, standing, and presenting the cool jackets, bags and many more. It’s all sounds great, but the collection unfortunately wasn’t so good.
The first look gave first impression- boring elegant sportswear. In blue colours. Then it was all grey with some hind of confetti print. Then red phase with black elements on the tshirts. It’s all boring, but cool and kind if nice. There were few cool looks, but last season was much better. Unfortunately, that wasn’t this what I was expecting. Not youthful and full of colourful, but MATURE TO DEATH. And now we won’t wear the Kenzo Tigers but Kenzo Tsunamis.