Épater Le Bourgeois

June 25, 2013June 25, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

This is the evidence of Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane tradition legacy to Yves style. Even if the AW13 was all about LA grunge chic, there was a huge, archival source- the pink, fluffy fur worn with tights covered of stones, and leather boots. In reality, Yves also loved and many times showed this kind of fur (even in green colour!) in his collections. And it looks as super stylish, as the one from the show! Oh, every day looking deeper and deepernin Yves archives, I feel love to Hedi Slimane working for this house! He is a real fashion revolutionist, breaking rules and kicking everybody’s face!

Men’s: Prada’s Idealogy

June 25, 2013June 25, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Questioning the cliche of the exotic, the cliche of the perfect summer- of impossible happiness” Miuccia Prada said in one of her very elusive comments after her Sunday Milan men’s show for S14. The wild and awesome muraks around the runway- in red, yellow and green- meant something more than a extra ordinary decoration. There was this helicopter flight sound around. The models in flower printed jackets were up to no good.
As the mysterious businessmens were walking around, holding some Shanagaim postcard like bags that looked creepy. These weren’t some kind of Gaugin flowers- the architect Rem Koolhaas and his OMA organization, described the set as “menacing paradise”. But who wouldn’t love to li e here? Clothes are rich and fresh, full of desire? There is nothing new about Tahitian shirts which Prada used before. There is still this allure feeling. It’s all about the rich mans that colonised Vietman and used their goods for them. Well, you’ve got to be imaginative to give such a dense and realistic idealogy…

Belles du Mexique

June 23, 2013April 6, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

While packing, Lena found her beautiful, archival Hermes scarf that is stunning! The Belles du Mexique scarf made of silk with Mexican women dancing in their traditional dresses, is like a huge splash of colours, full of details and fun. Perfect for beach parties and a city escape during summer vacations. And it is so chic! I feel now so “these” times, after seeing this cool piece and the Yves Saint Laurent Style book, full of prints, sexuality and colours! Laisse aller à la plage!

And for a dessert for the top of all- Veruschka in Yves Saint Laurent safari costume! Looks beautiful!

The Sense of Print

June 19, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Prints are always the key element of every Altuzarra collection. Thanks to SSENSE.com, now we can explore deeeper the inspirations of Joseph Altuzarra’s magic skill of printing and embroidery in his amazing collections. Everytime he choses a colour or motive for his new print, Joseph’s mind is being influenced by travels and everyday life. It may be a jungle paradise, ethnic flower print or Nazca caligraphies. And here is a recap of Joseph’s biggest hits!Resort 2013– Altuzarra explored culture of nomadic people, trekking into the heart of African Safari. The print that are used on the skirts, as he said, are inspired by Massai tribes. The colours were left as they are in reality- pigments of curulean blue, verillon red.SS 2012– Joseph interprated the classic Hawaiian shirt and hulla skirt, and made it cool and very New York. The prints “contained” hibiscus flowers, parrots, liles and hyper strong colours. This paradise is very close to heart of designer because when he was a child he remembers the bird watching in California. And this is my favourite print of all! Resort 2013Fall 2012- Altuzarra took us to the souks of Marrakesh when creating his prints for winter. He revisted traditional motifs of Maroccan rugs, used jacquard and tribal luxury in the coats with fox fur. The fragile silk sweaters were meant to replicate… carpet effect. When I saw it for real (it was like yesterday… :D) it looked horrrible. And that was as for me the worst collection of this designer. Spring 2013- The 2013 Altuzarra Collection was like a plate of Indian curry mixed with duck’s foie gras. Definitely there was too much of everything. Butterflies, India, gendarmes outfits, orthopaedic leg braces… Yes leg braces! An I’m talking about these horrifying gladiator shoes with butterflies. They really look like they were inspired with orthopaedic legs, but with some “beautiful” ornament.Then we’ve the highly tailored jackets. They look, like if they were stolen from a wardrobe of a French gendarme. But only the colours are different and the Altuzarra ones are more stylish. And if we believe Altuzarra, the print was all about vintage jewellery- Altuzarra looked to the American naturalist art movement of the 1940’s to create this print for the SS13 season.

Men’s: Extraordinary. London SS14

June 17, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Well I was really excited about the SS14 Collections for man- and mostly for London ones. You know, Gucci for man is always about coats and shirts. Dior is black and white. Dolce and Gabbana is always into Sicily, etc. So here we are in London, the town where MOST talented young designers do their jobs. This season I was waiting for J.W. Anderson. TRAGEDY. I will not show this on blog, because this is just to terrible. If you think of Anderson this season, you see a boy in a skirt and in a midriff. Yyyyuuu. Who also didn’t do best was Sibling. First collection was super cool with all these knitts and so on. Now there are less knitts. And nothing else. But the designers I introduce here impressed me. Some less, some more. I am insanely in love with Richard Nicoll prints that are SO GOOD! Craig Green was also superb. TOPMAN… You will see. And Chris Kane… Aw, LOVE IT!CHRISTOPHER KANE_____ Chris is getting even better and better in his print skills. He mixes elegance with colour just as at Woman’s and Man’s. He is a real shooting star of this fashion year. These 3-D, structural human face t-shirts are so amazing with the strong colours. In reality, I see that Kane uses some kind of high tech in his clothes, because this cool coat with “waves” doesn’t look like normal cotton. Same as this yellow tracksuit. A wish. I am already up to that red face tee!TOPMAN DESIGN_____ That was like Isabel Marant, but for man. Just slightly. The flower embroiderments on sweaters and shirts looked cosmic with these shades. Still thinking if I hate it or love it. Maybe I would wear this black shirt that comboys wore on their mustangs… But only for a carnaval!

ALAN TAYLOR______ A absolvent of LCM, just as Craig Green. Looks bad, but it is still original idea. And lets hold to that. A linen, gray top with attached elegant linen, gray jacket. It would look together (one on other) better and stylish, but not UNIQUE. And should be always UNIQUE if we talk ’bout London.AGI & SAM_____ A pair of designers thought of casual clothing in a colourful edition. I can’t say I am really shocked or something- This is all about perfect Britisch tailorship with a mix of modernity and a colour splash. My one hundred favourite is the orange coat. So summerish and my style!ASTRID AGREN_____ This girl knows (or maybe not) what a man should wear every summer. Mint colours, loose tracksuits and of course her biggest bestseller… white lace t-shirt. Well. Would love to wear this mint sport suit, but would look bad in this lace. And I don’t thik that men look god in lace- oppositely, lace is for women. I don’t know how modern time it should be, but for me lace is for ladies. And I don’t like it. This is visibly a gender mixing that paradoxally I like,. Yes I wrote that lace for men is a bad idea, but at the same time I think that it is always good to experiment! For now bravo to Astrid!RICHARD NICOLL_____ That was the best London collection of this season. Richard Nicoll. His womenswear is a bit boring, but menswear… SO COOL! The snake prints with these men taken from ancient painting look like a collage of Linder Sterling. The varsity jacket and sweatshirt look really good with all these sweatpants… Nothing more to say. Just a wish for more collections like this and… my size available on MrPorter.com!CRAIG GREEN______ This is a human art. The texture “installations” that Craig Green is known for are just awesomely mind blowing. It looks like if a colour splash exploded from a body of a man. Last season it was all dark, but now the surrealistic textures are all dyed with ink… If someone prefers something darker, Craig thought of a faceless serial killer (my idea!). This model look really scary without his “face” but bound with dark fabric and junky sweater with leather patchworks. Just where is his knife? In these junky-patchworked-sweatpants? My total thought of the collection- OUT. OF. THIS. WORLD!