Not Enough. Calvin Klein Collection SS27

The struggle of Calvin Klein Collection continues. Yes, this was Veronica Leoni’s best work to date, but it’s not enough. The collection might work at Jil Sander – especially the T-shirt and maxi tulip skirt, very Raf Simons for Jil Spring 2011 – but it doesn’t convince me that it’s either Calvin or essential. READ THE FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Calvin Klein Collection Suede Scarf



Calvin Klein Collection Bri Leather Pumps



Calvin Klein Collection Gemma Cotton Straight-leg Pants



Calvin Klein Collection Lynette Wool-denim Jacket



Calvin Klein Collection Gathered Duchesse Satin Maxi Skirt

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Delightfully Eccentric. Tory Burch SS27

Of all the fashion capitals, New York seems to appreciate female designers the most. They don’t just flourish creatively here, but also seem to feel at ease. That sense of unstrained playfulness was the driving force behind Tory Burch’s spring-summer 2027 collection.

Even if the silhouettes nodded towards the 1940s – think broad shoulders and high-waisted trousers – the designer wanted to find joy in dressing up, with humor as the secret ingredient. She managed to do that effortlessly with a vintage-y pleated dress accessorized with a feather boa, or with the not-so-prim cardigans embroidered with tiny beads. Then there were scarves adorned with tortoiseshell paillettes, like the ones you might find in Chinatown and throw into an outfit simply to dial down the seriousness of everyday life.

There was something beautifully decaying about the glamour of this collection: a woman who seems aware that she should have been born in a different era, and proudly refuses to conform to the reality she’s living in. Walking the streets of New York this week, I saw many women like this – delightfully eccentric and slightly out of place, and making that their power.

ED’s SELECTION:


Tory Burch Racerback Tank



Tory Burch Waxed Canvas Skirt



Tory Burch Studded Ballet



Tory Burch Suede Jacket



Tory Burch Jacquard Dress

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Natalia. Magda Butrym SS27

Unveiled during New York Fashion Week, Magda Butrym’s spring-summer 2027 collection, titled “Natalia,” is an homage to Natalia LL – the fearless Polish artist whose work explored the many reaches of femininity.

Preceded by a teaser that reimagines Natalia LL’s “Consumer Art,” the artist’s seminal work from the early 1970s, the collection revolves around the idea of women’s ownership of their own selves. In 1977, Natalia LL arrived in New York and proudly posed with one of the stills from the series, asserting her subversive position in the male-dominated art world. A key figure in Poland’s feminist and conceptual art scene, Natalia LL challenged conventional representations of the female body, turning desire, consumption and the gaze into the very subjects of her work. The cheeky, flirtatious woman depicted in the now-iconic, film-like frame is not merely the subject but, above all, the author of her own image ­– the muse of her own making, creating her own vision of reality.

Almost five decades later, the story makes a return to New York. As Magda presents her collection in the city for the first time and opens her first flagship boutique here, Natalia LL’s arrival in New York acquires a new resonance: two Polish women, separated by generations and working in different disciplines, arriving in the city on their own terms and staking out a space for their vision. “The gaze is always female. The touch is always a woman’s. The image belongs to her,” is how Magda sums up the moment’s ethos – and her creative dialogue with the late artist she admires, whose work has helped shape her vision of femininity. READ MY FULL TEXT HERE.

Show credits: Creative Director Magda Butrym / Stylist Jacob K / Casting Julia Lange / Movement Director Emma Chadwick / Set Design Anna Szczęsny / Sound Torso Studio / Make Up Yadim Carranza / Hair Mustafa Yanas / Styling Assistant Ioana Ivan / Art Coordination Edward Kanarecki / Press Spread The Word / Production Warsaw Creatives

ED’s SELECTION:


Magda Butrym Ruched Floral-print Stretch-silk Mock-neck Top



Magda Butrym Crochet-trimmed Ribbed Wool-jacquard Shorts



Magda Butrym Snake-effect Leather Pumps



Magda Butrym Glossed-leather Jacket



Magda Butrym Lace-trimmed Cotton And Linen-blend Mini Skirt



Magda Butrym Scarf-detailed Cotton-blend Trench Coat



Magda Butrym Julia Satin Tote

This Is Advanced Style: Angela Hills

Once in a while, the Instagram algorithm gets it exactly right. This morning, it served me Angela Hill’s finsta.

I already knew the British photographer – who, quite unlike anyone else, captures the beauty of youth and innocence – and co-founder of IDEA Books had incredible style. In a recent issue of System Magazine, she mentioned her particular love for Prada and Miu Miu (where she does ad campaigns), as well as Phoebe Philo. But photographs of Angela herself are surprisingly scarce online. For years I had to survive on the occasional IG story, like some kind of fashion-starved Victorian orphan. READ MY FULL TEXT HERE.


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This Is Menswear! Gabriela Hearst AW26

Thinking about fall dressing is real. Just as real as the dire need for a big, bushy money tree – all thanks to Gabriela Hearst. I’ll be honest: I’ve been kind of uninvested in what the designer has been doing for a while, and I don’t think her decision to show in Paris has necessarily done the brand any favors. But then, completely out of the blue, the brand released its autumn-winter 2026 menswear lookbook, and I lost my mind. Completely. Photographed by Theo Wenner and styled by Tom Guinness, this menswear collection is just insane in its… wholesomeness? It just looks so damn fine. Like clothes you’ll actually want to wear not for years, but for decades. The vibe is as if Tom Sawyer went Uptown. It’s very gentlemanly, with just the right taste for mischief. READ MY FULL TEXT HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:


Gabriela Hearst Men’s Pyke Cashmere Scarf



Gabriela Hearst Men’s Lawrence Cashmere Sweater



Gabriela Hearst Men’s Shearling Teddy Car Coat



Gabriela Hearst Men’s Wells Cashmere Silk Crewneck Sweater



Gabriela Hearst Leather Phone Pouch

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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