Austere Chic. Phoebe Philo Edit 3

September 10, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Phoebe Philo is back with her Edit 3 collection, which launched today in form of first, capsule delivery. The latest, autumnal offering isn’t distant from Philo’s earlier design ventures at her eponymous, highly elusive label, but surely does deliver a sense of sophisticated chic – and style. Those are two things that one could hardly navigate anywhere during the on-going New York Fashion Week. But in case of Philo, there’s also the feeling of rough austerity that makes her designs look commanding and important. And distinct. The coats with detachable capes and leather jackets are investment pieces for many, many years ahead, just like white, crisp shirting and chunky, black sweater with leather inserts on the sleeves. The designer lets in some experimental twist to a tie-dyed dress that seems to be constructed out of two sweatshirts. One might say that the brand and its designer seem to be stuck in one place – many items from the edit are slightly reworked versions of garments from previous collections. But in the world of ever-changing and endlessly-generated content, content and content, the sense of continuity that Phoebe channels is truly comforting.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Real, Raw, Sexy. Eckhaus Latta SS25

September 10, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

I’ve said it before, I will say it again: the Eckhaus Latta duo have and bring what Helmut Lang had and brought to New York at the turn of millennium. Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta‘s clothes are sexy without trying too hard; they have a sense of style that’s real; and they have that raw honesty about them. Their spring-summer 2025 collection is so far one of the biggest highlights of New York Fashion Week – and has actual clothes one wants to wear (I do!). Eckhaus Latta is a go-to brand for not-so-average knits, and they remained a standout in the latest offering. There’s also the element of playfulness about the labels’ pieces. They invite you to wear them whatever way you want. “I think both of us are very drawn to that sample sale vibe of, ‘there’s something that looks like a pile of rope on a hanger,’” Latta explains. “We’re like, ‘What is it?’ Obviously we have to deal with the idea of hanger appeal, but I think for us, letting these things have a kind of mutability and playfulness, like the scrunches in all these different ways, feels inherent to our curiosity.” Another big thumbs-up goes to the lookbook imagery where you really see how the clothes work on (and with) the body. Of course, there was a fashion show – or rather, a fashion happening – where friends of Eckhaus Latta had dinner and later did an impromptu runway parade. It looked genuinely fun. This brand seems to be one of the few in New York that knows what’s up.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Apparent Ease. Alaïa SS25

September 7, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alaïa was another show in New York that left me somewhat hungry for more. Pieter Mulier‘s took the Parisian maison to Guggenheim, as a contemporary (and very high-gloss) hommage to Azzedine Alaïa’s 1982 show at the Palladium nightclub. The spring-summer 2025 collection referenced a couple of the master’s knock-out designs: think 2001 couture asymmetric draped number hanging on one strap or the cut-out bustiers that became the brand’s signature (Mulier was evidently inspired by the forms of Frank Lloyd Wright-designed building). The Belgian creative director also invited some ideas that were born in New York: bandeaus and haute “sweatpants” were riffs on Halston’s 1970s jerseys, sculpted puffer jackets were obviously inspired by Charles James, one of Alaïa’s favorite designers. There was lightness and apparent ease about this collection that was absolutely luxe in its execution. And it was an experiment for Mulier, who has created a sort of well-tested comfort-zone in Paris when it comes to his sublime shows there. I just wish he dared to push it a bit more than just referencing familiar and pretty well-known codes of both Alaïa and New York fashion.

Here are some Alaïa goodies you just don’t want to miss.

ED’s SELECTION:

“Peter Lindbergh. Azzedine Alaïa” book

Alaïa Balloon-Leg Pleated Trousers

Alaïa Dome 32 Top-Handle Bag in Leather

Alaïa Leopard Jacquard Boxy Bodysuit

Alaïa Goldtone Layered Leaf Necklace

Alaïa Perforated Leather Ballerina Flats

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Wish-List: New Chloé

September 3, 2024September 2, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Chemena Kamali’s highly anticipated debut collection for Chloé has finally hit the stores, and damn, these clothes are hot. You know, sometimes you’ve got a brilliant fashion show or a look-book, but when you see the clothes separately, there’s just no spark. But in case of Kamali, she really did deliver. These pieces, which are the perfect balance of nomadic 1970s and boho 2000s, carry a sort of authentic patina that you get with vintage clothes that age well.

The designer’s first season at Chloé is her very personal ode to the maison. Kamali knows the history of the brand inside out, because she worked there as a Chloé-obsessed junior designer in the early 2000s under Phoebe Philo’s creative direction, and then again under Clare Waight Keller. She’s really at home here, and you can sense that in the way she so effortlessly revisits the Chloé vocabulary and codes. You have Gaby Aghion’s, the brand’s founder, carefree femininity; Karl Lagerfeld’s bourgeois chic he cultivated throughout three decades of designing at the brand; and the cool-girl spirit that Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo, and Hannah McGibbon ignited in the aughts. But Chemena’s clothes and accessories also feel grounded in reality. The designer herself is a working mom, and she wants to make clothes that aren’t only feminine, but wearable. One might say that there’s nothing truly ground-breakingly innovative about the new Chloé. But then we live in post-post-modern world where nostalgia keeps on fueling current aesthetics. And Kamali orchestrates that nostalgia really well. Plus, I really love this brand, and I couldn’t stand what Gabriela Hearst was doing with it for the past few years. So seeing Chloé being Chloé again is just so pleasing.

The best of Chemena’s autumn-winter 2024 collection?

ED’s SELECTION:

Chloé Ribbed Wool-blend Jumpsuit

Chloé Bracelet Embellished Leather Shoulder Bag

Chloé Jade Studded Leather Mules

Chloé Pleated Silk-georgette Midi Dress

Chloé Silk-crepon Maxi Skirt

Chloé Pineapple Gold-tone, Crystal And Resin Necklace

Chloé Cutout Ruffled Silk-crepon Turtleneck Blouse

Chloé Bracelet Embellished Glossed Textured-leather Shoulder Bag

Chloé Ruffled Tiered Silk-mousseline Turtleneck Blouse

Chloé Banana Gold-tone Cuff

Chloé High-rise Wide-leg Jeans

Chloé Ruffled Silk-crepon Camisole

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Spotlight On Ferragamo

August 29, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Founded in 1927, Ferragamo is one of the longest-standing luxury shoe companies in the world, and also the owner of the industry’s largest number of patents – a testament to its creative and technical pieces. The brand’s ready-to-wear – now revived by Maximilan Davis – is just as covetable and very much inspired by its heritage. Here are some of my favorite pieces from the brand’s autumn collection!