Obsessed: Prada AW24 Menswear

Some of Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons‘ ideas might not resonate immediately when seen on the runway. But six months later, the moment they arrive to the stores, these concepts become more approachable – and turn into obsessions. A menacing tension felt palpable once the models, dressed as corporate commuters, walked on the raised glass floor with a stream running through a meadow beneath. But when you put Prada‘s autumn-winter 2024 venue aside, you see great, great menswear – and accessories, like the wool caps in the most striking shades of green, yellow and red. The collection itself consisted of ultimate classics of menswear, as Simons listed for “the businessman, the working man, the thinking man.” The Prada twist was about touches that subverted these safe spaces of identity, enticing the wearer to surround himself with nature. Narrow-fit raincoats, tweed chore jackets, three-button gray topcoats, and gold buttoned naval outerwear all offered a route outdoors. This is a Prada outing that offers safeness and quintessence, clothes-wise.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Aspects of Love. Horror Vacui SS25

Munich-based Horror Vacui started out in 2012 as a brand selling vibrant sleeping gowns (for day and night), airy tops and oversized shirt-dresses in patterned silks and crisp Egyptian cottons. More than a decade in the business, the brand now offers an entire wardrobe, aesthetically rooted in Anna Heinrichs‘ vintage obsessions. Her spring-summer 2025 collection, shown during Berlin Fashion Week, is dedicated to all aspects of love, especially that of her mother and father who have both passed away within a year. The show opened with two looks in all-over black, which is an absolute rarity in the colorful world of the label. But the designs that followed made it clear that the beauty of her parents’ story was the focus rather than mourning. Translated from Latin, Horror Vacui describes a fear of emptiness, however this 10th anniversary collection was not barren or deflated, but full of love. The craftsmanship of Heinrichs’s honeycomb smocking, Froschgoscherl pleating, and the brand’s signature wavy trims are stunning. These are arts that have been passed down through generations and, too, are bound together by love. The designer upheld her sustainable approach to the collection, which, as always, was produced exclusively with Liberty of London fabrics, only this season she only used remnants from the last 10 years. One quilted patchwork design was even made from 100 different fabrics. When asked whether the numerous hearts running through many of the designs were not too obvious for such a conceptual collection, Heinrichs replied: “Yes, it’s quite naive. But that’s me. I like it when people smile. I don’t want to be cool, I want my fashion to evoke memories. Be they of family members, your own childhood, or just a beautiful moment in life.”

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Lived In Americana. Coach Resort 2025

I never really cared about what’s going on at Coach, but the resort 2025 lookbook has sparked my interest. Finally, a brand in New York that fills the blank space that Raf Simons left after creating the ambitious – and sadly aborted – Calvin Klein 205W39NYC project. Stuart Vevers similarly plays with the codes of Americana in a loveworn, weathered, and lived in way, with bits of cinematic, even horror-y drama. Vevers’s rather winter-ish resort collection is stuffed nostalgia-tinged fuzzy-soft cozy cable knits and full tweedy skirts with huge taffeta bows, rocking a Victoriana-goes-1950s vibe. Note how the oversized Argyle check knit polo shirts are designed to layer up at will, one of the many pieces in Vevers’ line-up denuded of gender specificity. Likewise the jewelry: diamanté bows and chandelier earrings to pin here, there, and everywhere, and single earrings with a delightfully kitschy quality to them – pumpkins, candy canes, essentially the John Waters-approved inventory of holiday tree decorations. For layering up with those sweaters Vevers suggests a ratty tee emblazoned with Popeye; it was inspired by a black and white image of Debbie Harry back in the day wearing a t-shirt with the pipe smoking, spinach loving cartoon character. Popeye isn’t the only pop cultural icon in play here as the designer was also looking at images of Twin Peaks stars Madchen Amick and Lara Flynn Boyle between takes, in their homespun, 1950s-esque looks warped by David Lynch.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Cos Summer Sale Edit

COS women’s sale has arrived: from timeless dresses and essential t-shirts to accessories in considered materials, discover my curated edit of women’s sale clothing!

ED’s SELECTION:


Single-Breasted Denim Blazer



Crossover Ballet Flats



Draped Asymmetric Midi Dress



Panelled Flared Denim Skirt



Oversized Raffia Shopper



Trompe L’Oeil Midi Skirt



Scoop-Neck Ribbed Swimsuit



Asymmetric Chain-Print Midi Dress



Power-Shoulder T-Shirt



Dolman-Sleeve Maxi Scarf Dress



Heeled Leather Loafers



Funnel-Neck Mohair Tunic



Broderie Anglaise Leather Shirt



Broderie Anglaise Leather Utility Trousers in Brown

Discover full COS sale here:

COS (EU)

Ease of Today. Carven Pre-Fall 2024

The best indicators of whether a brand is taking shape under a new creative director are not the runway collections, but the pre-collections. Judging by the pre-fall 2024 lookbook, Louise Trotter‘s Carven certainly is on the right path to be your new favorite Parisian brand. “It is not a nostalgic or particular prism of a woman,” said the British designer, when asked how the heritage of Carven informs her approach. “It’s that sense of silhouette and sense of proportion with an ease of today.” Comparing to other designers in Paris who struggle with reviving historic Parisian maisons (think Nina Ricci and Rochas), Trotter isn’t stepping into the trap of the archives. She isn’t pulling out a mid-century dress and trying to make it look somehow relevant in 2024. But she smartly deconstructs elements of Madame Carven’s sensibility, and incorporates them into contemporary Carven. For instance, the 1950s column silhouette is revisited in a tank dress worn over a t-shirt. For pre-fall, the designer is gravitating towards a more masculine wardrobe; think sweatshirt in sheepskin or a technical Prince of Wales trouser. The softly tailored coat that comes in either double-face cashmere or chocolate wool gabardine is phenomenal. “I want to find solutions for her life, as I do for myself,” Trotter noted. “It’s instinctive for me. These are pieces that I appreciate and want to wear.” Other women will, too.

Here are some of my favorite pieces from Trotter’s debut collection for Carven. Last sizes left!

ED’s SELECTION:


CARVEN Striped Tech-shell Shirt



CARVEN Pleated Satin Midi Skirt



CARVEN Strapless Twill Maxi Dress



CARVEN Oversized Embellished Tulle Top



CARVEN Satin Shorts



CARVEN Leather Mules



CARVEN Oversized Satin-twill Jacket



CARVEN Striped Shell Tote Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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