Celinism is Feminism. Celine Pre-Fall’16

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See it, buy it. But in comparison to other houses which sprint in digital fashion era, Céline chooses to chill, rather than sell one-season-only sweatshirts. The house was the first to decide to show its pre-collection just a week or two before the clothes really hit the stores – and many other brands, like The Row or Proenza Schouler adopted this smart and tactile tactic. Phoebe Philo‘s pre-fall 2016 collection is in fact an introduction to autumn-winter 2016 which was presented back in April, filled with a strong layer game and the what-women-want styling. Loden green tunics / dresses are worn over extremely large velour pants, while pillow-soft handbags and totes are carried around loosely, just like the all-time classics suede coats and mackintoshes. Philo plays with volumes in case of smokings, too, delivering a super French  one in a dark burgundy shade. It looks even better on Nirvana Naves, Philo’s currently favourite model.

But when you see the entire collection, you can easily notice that Phoebe is keeping it very settled, even elegant, but with a number of eccentric twists (like the charms and the odd shape of Croissant bag). The reason behind that is not only the fact that this collection will be sold for the next six months in all Céline flagships. It’s also about the woman, who comes back every pre-collection; the pure soul of Céline. Let’s be clear – runways are much more unconventional and edgy, they are the occasions when the designer tries to exceed her comfort zones. But for this, and previous pre-falls, Philo is all about her Célinism – clothes, which are timeless, ageless and are every women’s essentials. Investment pieces, which are empowered by the women who wear them, and likely to be individualised by the way these women love to wear them. Pre-fall is bi-polar, from one side much it’s more feminine, and from the other – masculine. Lastly, it’s full of beauty – from the folklore detailing to the way the leather is stitched and processed in the bags. Perfection?

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Smooth. Victoria Beckham SS16

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Thanks to this collection, Victoria Beckham positively updated her importance in the fashion syste,. Why? It was her best NYFW outing up to date. She showed, that her clothes can be commercial and edgy at the same time. Spring-summer 2016 was simple, but bold and optimistic. Childish patterns of circles (or rather “moons”) and squares appeared in forms of suede elements and bags. The tank-tops had fantastic cut-outs, while the suede harness-vests looked pretty interesting on white t-shirts. Also, the designer paid attention to prints, which weren’t her strong side lately – it got fairly breezy when surfer prints showed up on sweatshirts and culottes. It is clearly visible, that Victoria enters her much more playful side – she puts her cocktail dresses aside and lets more over-sized, wearable clothes come into her clients’ wardrobes.

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Slip-Ons

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Maryam Nassir Zadeh

They are as soft as socks. They are as casual as ballerinas. Slip-ons which are the perfect-shoes-on-the-go are making a loud comeback. It was Maryam Nassir Zadeh who made the cult in New York – and then, Phoebe Philo of Celine made them cool again during her recent fashion shows. What’s nice about them is the fact, that they are so seasonless – I mean, you can wear it during summer and winter, and they always look good and on time. So, in other words, they should be present in your everyday wardrobe!

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Celine Pre-Fall 2015

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Maryam Nassir Zadeh

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Maryam Nassir Zadeh

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Celine SS15

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Maryam Nassir Zadeh

Sun Kissed. Loewe SS15

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J.W. Anderson couldn’t go wrong. His debutant women collection for the Spanish fashion house, Loewe, is a masterpiece. Presented in the UNESCO building, full of concrete everywhere, the suede and drapings of dresses, skirts and bags looked perfect. Jonathan Anderson really studied Loewe’s archives- the brand is famous for its high quality leather. The collection itself was very modern, and of course used a lot of leather, and mostly suede. The pastel dresses had suede looking like to nearly fall out; the beige trench coat looked super effortless with those pants and orange mules; the jackets and tops were all about patent leather; and bags, like the Amazona had a totally new transformation. The t-shirts were embroidered in traditional, Spanish way, with a relaxed theme- a sunny, summer view at Mediterraean bushes full of olive trees and calm animals. The models had their eye-brows bleached, which gave all the looks sophistication, and most of them worn gold, zig-zag earrings. In other words, Anderson brought so much emotional, interesting ideas to the collection, that it simply feels like if his heart belonged to Loewe. And surely, it is.

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Suede. Derek Lam SS15

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Suede. Suede. Suede. Derek Lam, you are a real 70’s man! This collection is a masterpiece. Beautiful shades of violet, brown and tourquoise were presented in leather jackets, suede skirts and tops. With a slightly hippie & masculine vibe, the collection lands high on the best NYFW presentations up to date. Still, the nostalgia factor ticked up a few notches this season—there’s something about patchwork suede with contrast topstitching that just takes you back. But if Lam’s references felt quite literal this time around, that didn’t make the clothes any less compelling. “It’s a continuation of my preoccupation with being an American designer,” Lam said backstage. “I love the American codes: the jean jacket, the shirtwaist.” This is what he said of the bell trousers and buttoned jackets. Lovely! And these photos of Ube via Cereal Magazine perfectly match the clothes…

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