Lets Talk About Prada SS05!

I’m always obsessed with a Prada collection. Sometimes, I’m completely absorbed in her take on bourgeoisie and conservative dressing. Another time, I drift away in her more surreal styles. But lately, Miuccia Prada‘s spring-summer 2005 keeps popping over and over again in my mind. It’s like a scent of summer holidays, which are the perfect balance of heavenly relax and active experience of discovering. Back in the day, Miuccia acknowledged that this collection was a leap from her more demanding line-ups. “A vague idea of birds; birds of vanity, like peacocks, parrots, and swans,” was a starting point in her restless search for change, she explained. “I also wanted to move toward something more young and sporty, tall and narrow.” To bring the audience into her new reality, Prada stripped her familiar clean, boxed-in stage set down to the bare industrial walls, then projected Rem Koolhaas’ mind-scrambling collage of live news images onto them. It was a lot to take in before the show even started – but that, one suspects, was exactly Prada’s intention with the clothes, as well. There was so much going on. A rhapsody of colour, an excess of textures. But also, a different silhouette (short hemlines, worn mostly with flat sandals), a return to one of her favorite palettes (brown-ochre-rust), and as always, lots of artful eccentricity, like peacock feathers (I saw this dress at Didier Ludot vintage store in Paris and its magnificent) and knitted flowerpot hats. There was also a Jamaican dance hall vibe, with reggae on the sound system, Rasta stripes in the knitwear, and Caribbean crochet in the raffia hats and cardigan coats. And, oh, please note how relevant it is! That’s the power of Prada.

P.s. Happy Birthday, Miuccia!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Loewe x Paula’s Ibiza in New Dehli

Here it is – Loewe‘s collection that traditionally wins the summer capsule competition of sunny, lounge-y resortwear. Jonathan Anderson continues his rhapsodic celebration of holiday wardrobe with a collaboration designed in partnership with legendary Balearic boutique Paula’s Ibiza. Of course, any summer vacation might be impossible for most of us this year due to the lockdown and financial struggles, but who said we can’t dream a bit and get inspired? This time around, the collection has evolved from a capsule into a fully-fledged men’s and womenswear offering, finished off with accessories including bucket bags, hats, a fragrance and, of course, those immediately recognisable technicolour sunglasses that have become one of the Spanish label’s signatures. “Ibiza has always been very dear and personal to me: it’s my deepest tie with Spain, harking back to childhood and adolescent memories,” Anderson explains. “I’ve always said that Paula’s Ibiza embodies the spirit of letting go. This collection of ecstatic abandon is part rave, part cyberdog, in acidic neons, faded olive greens, and sunrise orange.”. Back to capture the spirit of the collection once again was the extremely talented 19-year-old Gray Sorrenti, who photographed its vibrant pieces on a cast of models, dancers, stunt artists, and performers on the streets of New Delhi – the Paula’s Ibiza collection are about voyage, never about one place – before much of the world locked down. Now, the joyful, almost euphoric images offer a moment of escape: “As a positive and energising message, I believe it’s very apt for now,” concludes Anderson. Note: 40 Euros from each piece sold will be donated to educational projects supporting socially vulnerable children, following an initial gift of 500,000 Euros.

Look-book photos by Gray Sorrenti.

La Riviera. Jacquemus SS19

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Simon Porte Jacquemus had great luck with the weather. If he presented his spring-summer 2019 collection just a few minutes later in the backyard of the Italian embassy in Paris, the grey clouds wouldn’t have much mercy for La Riviera‘s colours and the very typically Jacquemus, beach-ready attitude. This season, it was a crossover of Simon’s two fascinations: the French seaside (which is a classic theme reoccurring in his line-ups) and the Italian seaside (the new love he discovered this summer, as his Instagram feed suggests). It’s clear that the designer adores passion and heat that comes from the Mediterrean way of summer dressing. Also, this collection again proves that Jacquemus is consistent with his style. Light, knitted maxi dresses with sensual slits; eveningwear that looks so effortless that you wouldn’t mind wearing it on the daily basis; leg exposing silhouettes and a number of cleavage revealing shirts. Of course, it’s all far from anything vulgar – those clothes are carefree, and liberate the body. The newest additions? Instead of XXL straw hats, Jacquemus sent down the runway an enormous, orange basket bag that will be all over Instagram come summer. But there were also tiny-miny bags and shoes with heels that literally looked like earrings. Also, it’s the debut season of Jacquemus’ beachwear, which will be a sure best-seller when it hits the stores. In a way, it’s a regular Jacquemus show, based on the signatures that this young designer has already managed to consolidate in his career. La Riviera is very close to his two previous collections: La Bomba and Le Souk, especially in case of clothes. Not that it’s bad – it’s the wardrobe you dream of every summer. But I kind of miss the more daring Jacquemus, the one that was already on everybody’s lips in the industry, but still wasn’t mainstream hype.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

A Day in Portofino

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In the past, it used to be a romantic, silent fishing village. Still, even though Portofino is what it is today – an exclusive, expensive resort town filled with fancy shops (Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga doesn’t really match the local ‘Italian prettiness’, to be honest), yachts, elegant coffee shops and restaurants that are simply overcrowded with tourists (didn’t see Giorgio Armani or Rihanna in any, ha…) – it looks like a postcard. Specifically, a postcard you wouldn’t mind finding in your post! But if you find yourself slightly bored with the cliché part of Portofino, so the pedestrian area near the sea, don’t hesitate to go up the beautiful pine forest. Oh, and you don’t want to miss the last ferry to Santa Margherita Ligure – or else you go bankrupt, staying at Splendido Hotel for the night. Note: it’s very difficult to get to Portofino by car.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Le Gadjo. Jacquemus SS19

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Couldn’t ask for a better ‘summer fashion’ moment. For his highly anticipated menswear debut, Simon Porte Jacquemus took us to one of his most beloved places, Marseille (specifically Calanque de Sormiou, a spectacular beach which is a stone throw from the  French city). The runway was staged on the beach, with blankets and real-life holiday-goers as a backdrop. Jacquemus called the collection Gadjo, which is a Gypsy expression meaning ‘a man that belongs to no community’. But also, it’s a way to say ‘boy’ in the South of France. Shortly, it’s a word that Jacquemus feels connected to strongly, noting his origins and the care-free attitude to life.

So, what’s a Jacquemus man like? Like Simon himself. Just take a look at his Instagram, and you will quickly capture his sense of style: bold cotton shirts (worn with, or without, a slightly cartoonish tie), khaki bermudas, loosely fit blazers, bucket hats. And, if the weather is fine, great love for showing off his hairy torso. The clothes models wore (all street-casted, as far as I know) were exactly what Jacquemus loves wearing on the regular basis. I think I love it too – just look at all the energetic colours, patchworked knits and… hot denim! Jacquemus’ menswear isn’t complicated, but is well suited for daily life (in summer, specifically). Noting that Simon’s women’s line is relatively affordable, I think that my next season shopping cart is about to burst at the seams with all these goodies.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Algarve

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 The Southern region of Portugal, Algarve, is dubbed as the ‘European California’ by Vogue. Well, I think there’s more to it. Not that I’m judging Cali – which I haven’t been to yet – but the raw, sun-drenched, yet immensely beautiful Algarve is truly one of a kind and can’t be compared to anything else. From Alvor‘s Praia da Rocha (that holds countless caves) to the wild beaches near Cape of St. Vincent (a seperate post is coming up!), you can laze around literally everywhere in here. Nearly every city in Algarve has something that will surely amaze you. Caldas de Monchique and its healing waters; Lagos and its slightly obsolete, yet charming churches; Silves and its pottery tradition. Not forgetting about the fish market in Portimão, which you can see more of here. If you chose one of the less busy cities near the coast-line, it’s guaranteed that you won’t have to fight with a bunch of tourists to get a seat on the beach (a tip: beware of Albufeira, which  awfully contrasts with the idylic character of other places in Algarve). Also, in order to discover Algarve to the fullest, it’s really worth renting a car. So, who’s coming this summer?

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

NET-A-PORTER Limited

La Bombe. Jacquemus SS18

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‘La bombe’ is the way Simon Porte Jacquemus thinks of his late mother, Valérie, who is the designer’s lifetime inspiration and muse. It’s  a popular saying for beautiful, confident women in the Soe uth of France – the region, where the designer was born and which he continues to celebrate in his collections. The spring-summer 2018 show was like a sun-drenched fashion poetry, that took place in an extraordinary location – at Musee Picasso in Paris (no other fashion show took place here before). A special place requires special clothes, and Jacquemus’ pieces will be exactly what you’re going to demand when the summer comes – mini-dresses kept in sultry lengths, curved straw hats (slightly different from the ones from the memorable spring-summer 2017 La Santons de Provence collection), polka dots and lots of eclectic, Lacroix-like jewellery, but kept in a more minimal, sweet-candy style. This season, the textures feel softer than usual at Jacquemus. The young designer is keen on experimenting and he felt like draping and shaping the silhouette with the textiles, rather than keeping it stiff and statuesque. Simon had also been thinking about “French Island girls—they could be in Corsica, or Martinique in the Caribbean, too.” Henri Matisse’s paintings appear in my mind right away…

The overall effect? Blushing girls with their unfinished make-ups, in care-free dresses that they really ENJOY wearing – that’s the most frivolous and heart-warming start of Paris fashion week you could imagine. The Jacquemus femme is a bomb in every meaning of this word this (and every) season, that’s for sure.

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All collages by Edward Kanarecki.