Suspiria. Undercover AW19

When I saw Undercover‘s autumn-winter 2019 collection, I was literally like: “OMG. It’s an ode to Suspiria. OMG!”. Yes. Jun Takahashi really did a collection that’s in majority all about Luca Guadagnino’s remake of Dario Argento’s cult horror, Suspiria. First, you’ve got to know I’m a mega-fan of Luca and all his films. But his Suspiria transported me to a completely different world. So I was really impressed that somebody in fashion finally went crazy for this film and did a proper collection based on it. The mood of 1970’s, Cold War-era Berlin and a world-renowned dance company controlled by powerful, elusive, sadomasochistic witches… it’s such a good source of inspiration. Not only the collection’s colour palette was completely inspired with the film. Takahashi wanted to use the film stills for prints (Guadagnino gave his permission for this – he’s a film director with an incredible sensibility for fashion) and here we are with a line-up of bomber jackets, hoodies, dresses and skirts that picture some of the most standout moments from the remake. Tilda Swinton – who played three roles in the film – and her character of Madame Blanc in a floor-sweeping, red dress appeared in two ways: as a literal print, and as skirt-pant hybrid in the same colour. I think no other designer can make a collection look so good, using just one reference and focusing so much on it. The theme doesn’t feel tired or invasive. It’s for fans, but not only – I bet any Undercover client will rush for the collection’s garments, without even watching Suspiria. You haven’t? Please do!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Suspiria and Him. Thomas Tait AW15

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Do you know the horror movie called Suspiria? If yes, then you totally will understand this eerie and disturbing Thomas Tait collection. Latex gloves, wide pantalons, leather skirts and bloody red cowboy jackets. The invitation’s still from Dario Argento’s 1977 horror masterpiece Suspiria was echoed on pleated dresses – changed into digital print for Tait, made from screen captures done on his laptop while watching films in bed. “They’re kind of really shitty and a lazy way of doing some kind of informal research. I thought it would be really interesting to make these highly intricate garments and undercut them with a crap image from the film I love.” The dramatic venue and the music – created by Frederic Sanchez – matched the melancholic, slightly violent mood. Summing up – the collection is very, very interesting and… elusive?

Winning LVMH’s Young Fashion Designer prize last year has meant a huge difference to Thomas Tait, who like many young designers struggled with keeping the business working – not becaues of lack of ideas, but funds. “The money kept me from going out of business to be honest,” he said. And that’s pretty much a very happy ending for Thomas (in case of sponsoring), and hopefully it will be one for other money-struggling designers.

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