For The Champions. Lacoste AW20

Louise Trotter‘s take on Lacoste gets better and better with every season. Golf bags, kiltie loafers, and signature green crocodile logo were all over the autumn-winter 2020 – Trotter knows that a brand like this needs its codes to be nurtured continously – but there were other additions. The designer has not abandoned the brand’s tennis heritage for its neighboring sport at the country club – through these golf-inspired pieces, she is paying homage to René Lacoste’s wife, Simone de la Chaume, a champion golfer whose legacy has been overshadowed by her husband’s embroidered gator. In De la Chaume’s heyday in the 1920s, shin-grazing pleated skirts and deep-V knitwear constituted the on-green look for women; here, Trotter refigured these silhouettes to be lighter, breezier, and in flashes of pastel colors. Styled as total looks – according to stylist Suzanne Koller’s own wardrobe rules – these golfing ensembles had a quirkily modern feel without veering too far into costume. The colour palette of the collection was definitely one of the most inspiring this season. I think buyers and editors aren’t really taking the new Lacoste seriously. And they actually should: it’s great.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Always On The Go. Givenchy Resort 2020

For Givenchy‘s resort 2020, Clare Waight Keller digged into the idea of a wardrobe that’s suited for travelling – from daily commuting to long distance voyages. Or, for people like Clare, who travel from London to Paris on a weekly basis, occasionally do shows in Florence (Pitti Uomo is approaching and Givenchy is this year’s guests), dress celebrities for the Met Gala in New York and check on the brand’s ambassadors in Cannes. That’s a busy schedule, and the wardrobe should be ready for anything. “What I’ve seen so much around me, and with my colleagues and friends, are the challenges of dress today when people travel so much,” she says, then laughs, pointing to one of her Resort images of a girl who has a lanyard phone pouch around her neck and a tote in one hand. “The two-bag situation. That is exactly how my life is!” For women, Waight Keller did faux-fur coats in pink and leopard print, as well as masculine coats with military buttons and sharp shape, a beige jumpsuit perfect for entire week and some really, really gorgeous eveningwear which included intriguing lace work. I somehow missed consistency in all that, but still, it’s a wardrobe of staples, ready for very different occasions. Menswear was stronger in this collection, maybe due to the model casting (that blond hair makes anything look good), maybe because of the Givenchy motorcycle helmet which stole the spotlight. Or, it was all because of this fluidity between sportiness and tailoring. A motocross sweatshirt over a shirt and tie, a green 70s suit styled with sneakers, major outerwear put together with over-sized denim pants. There’s something very Riccardo-Tisci-era Givenchy about it, but done without overhyped prints.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Beautiful Consistence. APC AW19

This was a classic A.P.C. presentation, with a few plot twists. Jean Toitou invited two collaborators for autumn-winter 2019 collection: Brain Dead, an Los Angeles–based streetwear brand, and Suzanne Koller, the house’s longtime stylist and Parisian friend. The first created graphic hoodies based on the 1972 documentary, Future Shock, in which Orson Welles, playing narrator, discusses how technology is moving too fast for humans to keep up. Koller, the fashion director of M Le Monde and Self Service, designed the collection’s black wool dress (worn by her currently favourite blond, Maggie Mauer) and an oversize parka that she teamed with a monochrome look in gray: chunky sweater, turtleneck, wool trousers, and leather boots. During his speech, Touitou joked, “Maybe you can guess which pieces are hers.” Knowing her style and work, you could think of Koller right away, even not knowing about A.P.C.’s collab.  A.P.C. values consistence, which seems like the best advise for any brand doing shows in Paris. And their eventual ‘surprises’ make this consistence even more beautiful.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

#InstaLOVE – December 2018

@suzannekoller 

I’m an Instagram maniac and I openly confess that I spend too much time on filtering my feed. But it’s irresistible, when you have so many great accounts to follow! If you are ready for a dose of beautifully curated walls, inspiring photos and delightful shots – see my December recommendations!

@thomaslohrstudio / Thomas Lohr’s photography seems to be simple at a first glance, but then, you’re struck with its sophistication. Whether we’re speaking of Małgosia Bela’s mugshot for Daniel Lee’s Bottega Veneta or robotic Kiko Mizuhara in a new 032c editorial, Lohr captures both, real reality and subserved reality, in his work. Follow him to be up to date with all of his amazing projects.

@flower_lore / This account makes me feel super Christmas-y, especially with its colourful, folklore mood! There are Bulgarian kukeri, vintage festive postcards – and fairies, as well. Plus, the the founder of this page, Bethany Van Rijswijk, seems to love edgy, medieval miniatures as much as I do.

@suzannekoller / I’m quite sure I picked Suzanne Koller in my #InstaLOVE edit before. But, I caught myself on bookmarking nearly each post of her to my ‘saved’ file on the ‘gram. So that’s very right to place her here again, even for the 13838292th time. The Paris-based stylist does incredible direction for M Le Magazine Du Monde and Self Service, and her Parisian life reported in her tongue-in-cheek stories is equally absorbing. A must follow!

@hollygolightlydk / After visiting Holly Golightly’s eclectic store in Copenhagen this October, I felt in absolute love with the place. The brand selection here is as good as the interior, while the occasional vintage drops will surely make you drool. It’s worth checking out their Insta, since it’s filled with outfit posts that truly, truly inspire.

@shona.heath / Shona Heath is a London-based set designer, who’s behind some of the most incredible fashion show venues (like the bed settling at Marni last season). But also, she collaborates with Tim Walker on every editorial, creating some of the most fantastically abstract visual scenarios that you’ve ever seen. Once you click that blue button, you will enter her world and never really come back.

AND, if you want to follow one more account on Instagram… why don’t you follow, ta-da, @designandculturebyed?

NET-A-PORTER Limited

So Luxe. Givenchy Resort 2019

givenchy

It took me a while to fall in love with Clare Waight Keller‘s refined vision at Givenchy, true. But her resort 2019 collection is fire in terms of both, womenswear and menswear. That luxe feeling behind the faux fur coat, slouched boots and kimono-inspired varsity jackets is nothing ground-breaking, yes, but the effect is sublime. Clare delivers classical elegance, which feels both contemporary (satin hoodies there, slouch pants there) and true to the house’s heritage simultaneously. That black & white mini-dress is quintessentially Hubert De Givenchy. Shortly, that’s a delightful set of looks, styled by the greatest Suzanne Koller. I actually can’t wait what Waight Keller plans for the main collection – a tribute to the late founder of the house is probably in progress.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

#InstaLOVE – December 2017

unnamed-28

@concept21store

I am an Instagram maniac and I openly confess that I spend too much time on filtering my feed. But it’s irresistible, when you have so many great accounts to follow! If you’re ready for a dose of beautifully curated walls, inspiring photos and delightful shots – see my December (by the way, the last of 2017) recommendations!

@mrmattberman / Matt Berman’s feed is like a treasure chest of vintage moments starring Cher, Lauren Hutton and the late Johnny Hallyday. Those times…

@concept21store / My favourite Concept 21  has just reopened in a new location – and I’m more than happy to see so many great Polish designers there. Even if you’re not in Poznań, take a look at it!

@suzannekoller / The co-founder of Self Service and fashion director at Me Le Magazine du Monde, Suzanne Koller, posts the best backstage snaps you can imagine. Also, I’m always intrigued by the way she portrays Paris. That’s chic with no cliché.

@m.o.endres / That feeling when you want to move into somebody else’s house is quaranteed, once you induldge yourself in Maura Endres’ feed. Really, be careful with this one! It’s too beautiful.

@le__dauphin / ‘Glamour is terror’, according to this anonymous Insta-curator. Subversive, eerie and distubring, yet sexy – that’s how one can describe this visual diary, filled with Madonna’s underrated moments, 90s Alexander McQueen and drama-wise femme fatales. Love it.

AND, if you want to follow one more account on Instagram… why don’t you follow, ta-da, @designandculturebyed?