Swarovski

At the Maison Martin Margiela X Swarovski collaboration during the MMM couture show, I was shocked how much phisics and science can change fashion. These crystal elements attached to the latex boots and bracelets are not simply sticked with glue- no, on this occasion, Maison Martin Margiela did in fact debut something completely new. They worked with Swarovski and their new Crystalactite technology to create pieces of jewellery that glinted at you on the catwalk as cuffs clasped around shiny riding boots. The new innovation in the fact that it’s the first time Swarovski have fused crystal and white resin together without the use of glue creating a hybrid material that looks like it might have naturally grown that way over time. Margiela was the first ever house invited to such experiment and used inspiration from stalactites formations (hence the hybrid name) grown in caves. NOW AVAILABLE at COLETTE

There is no word that really can express the Maison Martin Margiela Haute Couture collection for AW13. It’s as always untitled, I would say, taken from laboratory and still not checked. There is such big splendour of styles, fabrics in one collection, that it’s strange it all works out together, even if it not. Latex trousers reminding of jeans and a white vinyl top with a classical Margiela veil opened the show, without music, special decorations and colours. It’s not a show, but a presentation of art. This is the first time when Margiela team work with Swarovski, to create jewellery and even… Boots! The heels of these amazing boots had a Swarovski crystal outgrow that looked fascinating. Just as the unique horse nail “finger” space in Maison Martin Margiela shoes!
The collection based a lot on embroidery inspired with Asian flowers. Mostly, all looks had something of flowers- veils, vests, skirts… There was a visible hand work on everything, even on scares that were held by few models. What I enjoyed most in the collection was mixing denim and art, that’s rare in couture. The look were a model wears casual pair of jeans, marble face veil and a flower embroidered vest is my favourite. It is very different and just untitled!

If talking of more art than couture that’s still classified as fashion, Iris Van Herpen is located definitely in this uncertain spot. “Beyond Wildness” was the title of her 11 looks collection. But, each look was steeped into the nature- it was a deep forest dress, with the spirit of Japan and the surface of a wild wood or branches as light as cobwebs as strange nature inspired decoration.
Working with artist Jolan van der Wiel, who created the magnetically grown surfaces (sounds amusing) and many other artists, Van Herpen created a collection that is really out of that world. But the designer still has to think over all her ideas, before creating the scientific collections with it’s clear message. Photos of the backstage and collection are taken from T Magazine!