One Universe. Lemaire SS19

For Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran, women’s and men’s wardrobe is one universe. That’s why they presented both on one runway this season. In terms of clothes, this was a classic Lemaire collection, without much risks. Shirt dress in cotton ventile, double breasted jacket, baggy skirt in pigment dye poplin, oversized, knotted trench coat (as seen on Tasha Tilberg), linen sailor pants, large bum bags in nappa leather… clothes that are in constant demand. Majority of the looks is genderless (for example the coats, that are cut in the same way for both women and men). I adore Lemaire, but I wish the designers tried new territories next time – this collection looks very much like their last few seasons, just kept in different colour palette. If not for the live music and the models’ eventual dancing, that would be a rather stiff presentation, gone completely unnoticed in the Paris fashion week crowd.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Sun-Kissed. Partow SS19

Who: Nellie Partow

Where: New York

What: Partow, as a label, is rooted in the present tense, so don’t expect 70s or 90s references that storm other designers and brands for the last couple of seasons. Simply speaking, it’s a brand that can be easily put next to The Row. The quality of knitwear, tailoring and pretty much everything else makes Partow a true American luxury brand, from top to bottom.

SS19: The designer listed her hometown of Laguna Beach, California, as the main inspiration behind the laid back silhouettes. Baha hoodies are a nod to the local surfers, while the toned shades of peony and tangerine remind “the peach undertones in your skin,” post-sunbathing. The collection’s highlight was definitely the hand-knit cable sweater, which was covered with paint to mimic whitewashed wood. Gorgeous! Phoebe Philo is still off the radar, so if you seek clothes that are similar to hers, Partow might be your go-to brand this season. There are some clear clues of Nellie’s love for the pre-Hedi Céline (with an É!), from the styling to several garments (far too many to list). But that’s not a bad thing! I also found the look-book itself quite intriguing, starring Tasha Tilberg and photographed by Bibi Cornejo Borthwick.

P.s. The fashion month has just begun, and I thought of changing the format for my reviews. New brands that debut on Design & Culture by Ed will have the ‘in a nutshell’ scheme (like here), while the more well-known names will get the traditional, long read.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.