Marie Antoinette. Thom Browne SS20

If you’re looking for a show (and equally spectacular clothes), go to Thom Browne. Just beware of killer heels he’s offering his models every season. For spring-summer 2020, the designer was drawn towards the unabashed decadence of France before the Revolution. With models in Marie Antoinette-esque wigs and powdered pink faces, Browne’s vision of the 18th-century silhouette aligned most closely with the historic original. Anna Cleveland walked down the runway in a dress that owed its waist-whittling line to traditional corsetry. There was often a layer cake of prettiness underneath the rigorous feminine architecture: petticoats and ruffled bloomers in the softest pastel shades, for example. Browne’s signature gray flannel suits were stripped back to their red, white and blue lining in places, revealing traditional men’s boxer shorts that were buoyed by suspenders. But mostly, those looks said one thing: “let them eat cake!”

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Fun is Key. Thom Browne Resort 2020

“When quality is so important, I think you also have to counterbalance that with something that makes it seem not so serious. Fun is key.” This is how, in two sentences, Thom Browne explained the quintessence of his ready-to-wear line, which is presented as pre-collections (the fashion shows in Paris are ready-to-wear too, but on a very different level…). For resort 2020, Browne showed his signatures, like cropped suits (this time in cute, dolphin print) and impeccably tailored coats in a not-just-for-business kind of attitude. It’s a classic Thom Browne collection, cheered up with a gorgeous vinyl rain-coat in yellow and white rubber boots with the brand’s signature tricolour tag.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Suit Up. Thom Browne Pre-Fall 2019

Thom Browne‘s pre-fall 2019 collection is quintessentially… Thom Browne. Expect the designer’s subversive take on suiting – whether we’re speaking of an over-sized, wool blazer worn over an equally ‘business’ dress (and a crisp white shirt with a tie, layered underneath) or something more playful, say, duck-print tailored jackets with matching knee-lenght skirts. The look-book as well sees the designer’s signature intarsia techniques: tie stripes meet willows, landscapes and even more geese. Also, really love the shoes, kept in red, white and black. They look as bold as Browne’s upside-down elegance.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Suburban Extremes. Thom Browne SS19

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 Thom Browne took suburban, summer garden party style to the extremes. Gingham checks, whale and boats themes, dad ties and ridiculous headwear got exaggerated and couture-ed. Every sleeve is hand embroidered with the season’s motifs (like starfish or bananas), while the masks refer to old-school horrors happening in the calm, silent outskirts. Thom Browne rarely does anything usual and his creativity is far, far from the real world problems. But, noting all the absolutely fantastic craftsmanship involved in this line-up, it’s hard to look at the models struggling in killer heels, tied up with corset-like strings and strangled by all that uncomfortable excess. As Cathy Horyn wrote in her review for The Cut, it’s “silly”. Still, other than that, Browne’s spring-summer 2019 offering is full of fantastic garments to appreciate and cherish.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.