Tights

No21 AW16

Tights are present in women’s wardrobse on the daily basis – but I distinctly sense that for a few seasons they were absent on the runways, or, at least, were ignored as a potential spotlight-stealer. They were just, somewhere there, hidden under layered skirts and thick teddy bear culottes. But autumn, a season which is ahead of us, is filled with tights, not in a matter of simple necessity – but rather as an accessory which holds the whole outfit together, oozing with flirty elegance and feminine attitude. Prada and Chanel were the first to send “cool” tights down the runway – the former will soon hit the stores with woolen, harlequin rhombus’, while the latter took tips from Carine Roitfeld (the most conscious wearer of tights, knowing they are her chic, chic, chic signature), revaming the traditional mesh into sensual lace. Later on, big and small names took a spin on the “new” trend. From messy look at Alexander Wang, to romantic grunge at No21, you are about choose from #STRICT tagged tights or even much more non-chalant, rhinestone- embroidered stockings. Hosiery is a major thing in Molly Goddard’s autumn-winter 2016 collection, where the young British designer wrapped her models’ legs in unconventional organza for her look-book.

But for these designers, we would still keep tights in a box of “basics” this season. But tights were, and are, the essentials. So, why should we underrate them?

Alexander Wang AW16

No21 tights, from the designer’s Instagram (@dellacqua).

Prada AW16

Prada AW16 in Summer issue of Dazed & Confused

Molly Goddard AW16

Prada campaign by Steven Meisel, circa 2000

Meadham Kirchhoff and granny’s crotchet fantasy

Chanel pre-fall 2016

Milan Fashion Week has never been in such a good form, and it’s all because of the designers, who revive the major houses, or expand the smaller, eponymous ones. Alessandro Dell AcQua, the man behind N21, is an example of the latter, proving to be one of the most successful in his field – the first, marble-rich Milan flagship store has been opened at the beginning of the year, his signature bow-tie mules are called the “total best-sellers” by most of the retailers, while N21’s creative direction, which is often focused on feminine chic, becomes much more refined and aesthetically conscious.

Unexpectedly, the autumn-winter collection presented the defiant side of Alessandro’s style. Grunge already seems to be the topic on everybody’s lips this season, and his polished, lady-like sense reinterpreted the slightly burnt-out, Saint Laurent sucked attitude. Dell AcQua has visibly put extra effort on the texture play, mixing satin slip-dresses with sweaters in his outfits; the floral-print silk dresses styled with thick-knits reminded me of Marc Jacobs’ Perry Ellis grunge era, but in an Italian world of leoard-motived fur coats and rhinestones. It’s great to see tights play an important role in woman’s wardrobe, but rather as a stylish detail than an autumn necessity – the ones which walked the runway at N21 had floral embroideries, and the are too good to be true. It’s the next, triumphant season for Alessandro, and I sincerely hope he will continue to redefine feminine sensuality in his off-duty, edgy way.