Haider Ackermann’s debut collection for Tom Ford is a triumphant return to fashion this incredible designer has deserved for years (that memorable guest collection for Jean Paul Gaultier and the on-going collab with Canada Goose were proper warm-ups). The evening Ackermann presented his vision for the brand, a palpable energy was perceivable in Paris, especially in the vicinity of Place Vendôme.

Electrifying sensuality. Flirtatious elegance. Powerful sexuality. “To seduce” is how the designer summed up his collection of sublime, sublime tailoring, stinking-hot leathers and flou silhouettes. What made this collection stand out is the way Ackermann didn’t fall for any of the re-editions tropes – there were no in-your-face look-backs at Ford’s Gucci or Yves Saint Laurent days in sight – but he effortlessly stayed in Tom’s deeply sensual vocabulary, perfectly balancing it with his signature touch. The shirting is to die for, just like the silky robes and maxi-length numbers. The final look, a grey dress textured to look like alligator’s leather, was as easy to wear as a t-shirt (actually something many women used to say about Azzedine Alaïa’s dresses).

This is a seamless debut any designer dreams to have. There just wasn’t even one superfluous thing about it. And the casting was utterly hypnotizing, too. Ethan James Green and Saskia De Brauw in creamy cashmeres. Kristen McMenamy in an hourglass-shaped tuxedo. Silver foxes in razor-sharp tailoring and leather gloves. Chic heart-throbs – or maybe heart-breakers?

Oh, how we missed Haider for all these years since he departed from his namesake brand (good riddance, Anne Chapelle – read more about the way she sacked Ackermann and stole his name here). How lucky we’re he’s back for good. Fashion needed him – and some real, good sex.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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