When Tommy Ton joined Deveaux as creative director two years ago, this New York-based label was a menswear line. Today, its business is in majority womenswear. All those years shooting street style outside the shows have paid off. Ton says observation is only part of it, though; careful listening to what his friends, customers, and friends who have become customers want is also essential. He hears women ask for sleeves that cover their upper arms, pants without pleats and skirts with specific made-to-be-flattering proportions. That may sound dry, but Ton enthuses about such details. He’s not in this for the runway glory, he seems to truly enjoy the nitty gritty of making clothes. After a couple of seasons of shows in New York, Ton and Deveaux’s designer Andrea Tsao opted for a showroom presentation in Paris (pre-corona times…) for autumn-winter 2020. The attractions of this brand aren’t editorial, their efforts are aimed not at magazine pages, but at women’s everyday wardrobes. As people running a small company, Ton and Tsao are practicing sustainability by using fabrics across categories. This time that means they made a shirt dress and a poncho anorak hybrid in the same khaki shade of water-resistant cotton nylon – pragmatic for the brand and for their often on-the-road customers. The New Yorkers are really good in tactile, soft minimalism: The Row, Gabriela Hearst, Khaite and Deveaux are a gang.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
The queen of Milanese Fashion Week, was of course Anna Dello Russo. She mastered the Celine tight sleevs dress, Loeve hairy shoes, Dolce & Gabbana mosaic dress, Givenchy printed sweater and Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane grunge look. In other words, the highlights of AW13. But still, my favourite was Anya Ziourova in Celine. She looked so amazing in it! And the Marcelo Burlon t-shirt couple looks like fun… MFW, it’s your last day!
Here are my favourite photographs taken by Tommy Ton during London Fashion Week! One thing is sure- the Celine pre-fall 2013 collection was most worn. Christina Cantanera went on full splendour and even wore one whole look from Celine AW13 collection with all these adorable blue/white/red checks! Givenchy was there as always, but what I loved most was… yeah, the Acne sweatshirts, but also the Giles X Sibling knitted hat that model Marie Poviesan wore! It looked so cool! Maybe the LFW street style wasn’t so spectacular as NYFW, but still it was good.
The Street Must Have from the London Fashion Week? Only the Acne sweatshirt that is simply amazing the Acne Studios logo with the official Stockholm boutique address is epic! I most love it in white and gold version- the minimalistic touch mixed with the cool 90’s trend, logomania- is super cool! And it’s simply everywhere on streets… Available at Browns Fashion London!
What makes the New York Fashion Week even brighter? Not only the bright, orange lips at Rag & Bone and Prabal Gurung fluo-blue dresses… but the amazing street style that is snapped by Mr. Tommy Ton! When Hanne Gaby Odiele arrived on the street in super cool tank top and black & white jacket, every camera was on her. As Suzy Menkes wrote few months ago that Street Style is a circus for girls that just want to appear on Style.com, I think she takes this too serious… I think the Margaret Zhang and Mademoiselle Yulia rocked in their outfits… And the street style phenomena, Alexander Wang’s nice, Aila, already wore the t-shirt from her uncle’s collection with the “Parental Advisory” print! The Streets are full of creativity.