In addition to my Prague addresses I discovered back in autumn (read about them here), here are three more places I found worth visiting in the Czech capital.
What makes Prague locals and well-informed tourists go to the rather sleepy Karlin district? One word: Eska. It’s a restaurant with a bakery which brings together the traditional and the modern – on the plate, and in its arty/industrial interior spread across two floors. It’s a spot from Ambiente (Prague’s leading culinary collective) that brings you food made of Czech ingredients with the daring touch of the head chef Martin Štangl. Here, you will enjoy breakfast, a lunch or an intimate evening meal made of several courses. When you leave, don’t miss the fire-baked bread, organic dairy, selected meats from Naše Maso and a take-away coffee at the Eska store.
Your culture time should be spent at the Veletržní Palác. At the time of its construction (completed in 1928), this was the largest building of its kind in the world and the first ‘Functionalist’ building in Prague. Today it serves the needs of the National Gallery. A unique collection of Czech and international contemporary art, it includes some well-known examples of French and European art, including major works by such names as Picasso, Toyen, Renoir, van Gogh, Klimt, Gauguin, Cezanne, Rodin and many more. Take your time to see all the four floors and the temporary exhibitions.
Kantýna is another address coming from under Ambiente’s wing. The concept is quite surprising – it’s a literal canteen, but aesthetically pleasing. With a butcher store in the front and a restaurant space in the back, this place is for true meat lovers (or even, maniacs). I wasn’t really impressed with the sausage I ordered, and I’m not a beer-loving type of person, but I guess there are people who enjoy this sort of culinary ‘adventure’. I came here for the interior!
Photographs by Edward Kanarecki.
This Christmas, I went to Prague with my family, and it couldn’t be lovelier. Of course, there was some stress regarding the typical ‘Christmas conventions’ of staying at home and all… but then, Prague feels so, so at home. Those cobblestone streets, all the truly festive decorations, the panoramic views at the river (always filled with swans, whatever season it is!). And, to my own surprise, so many places are open throughout the holidays. New addresses, that will well add up to the spots I’ve written about back in October, are about to be posted here, hopefully before the New Year. For now, here are some moments from those few days.
Prague’s monumental, spikey architecture, some new season Prada at the Parizska street, and the delightful Christmas tree adorning the main square.
‘Grace: The Thirty Years of Fashion at Vogue’, signed by the one-and-only Grace Coddington, is what I got from Santa. I guess I was good this year…
The iconic Czech Krtek, re-imagined in every possible way; the tram near Prague’s National Theatre; Art Deco-ish reliefs and ornaments near Jozefovo district; the crazy, colourful Czech glassware.
All photos by Edward Kanarecki.
Another spot to visit and buy at when in Berlin‘s Mitte district? Lunettes Selection. Whether you’re looking for classy sunnies or rare, vintage Pierre Cardin frames, that’s the right address for you. The store’s interior is simple, but eye-catchy (no pun intended…). The endless number of pharmacy-like shelves with a huge variety of glasses is here, ready to be opened and tried out. Take your time!
Torstraße 172 / Berlin
All photos by Edward Kanarecki.
Whenever I’m sure I know Berlin well, it proves me that I’m completely, completely mistaken – that’s the charm of this city! Even Mitte, a neighborhood that is often referred to as no longer off-beat, but not yet mainstream, has some secrets hidden from me, especially on the Torstraße (that doesn’t just end on Soho House Hotel). One of them is Brutto Gusto, a place that’s blurring the lines between a flower shop and fine arts gallery. You will find here both, a delightfully big, blue hydrangea, and a ceramic artwork with a 13,500 euro price tag. Like one of those Carolein Smit‘s sculptures, that are temporarily exhibited at Brutto Gusto (until 12.01.19). Smit explores disturbing motifs, that simultaneosly repulse and attract. But when you notice the meticulous craftsmanship that is involved in every work of hers, there’s no way you will turn away from it. The place as well sells artisan pots, vases and glassware, all that coming straight from the studio.
Torstraße 175 / Berlin
Photos by Edward Kanarecki and via flatlandgallery.com