Trend Report AW15

March 30, 2015March 30, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

AW15 is the season which is merely all about trends. It rather tells a story which might be translated too many languages – we’ve got 80’s, we’ve got goth, we’ve got normcore, we’ve got green flowers – the new autumn / winter season has a lot to offer, trust me.

Why 80’s are cool again? I always thought that this fashion era is slightly poor. But Jonathan Anderson of his J.W. Anderson and Loewe thinks differently. Graphic kaftans, corduroy trousers, over-sized leather jackets are all a signature of 80’s movies and pop-culture icons. Grace Jones appeared on nearly every designer’s mood-board, just like Memphis Milano Studio and their bold furniture. AW15’s favourite, Vetements brought on over-sized mohair sweater with granny’s pearl earrings while Hedi Slimane of Saint Laurent went for a crazy disco party in LA, where 80’s had its impact, too.

Wearing black is not only about wearing black. It’s also all about drama in a way. Marc Jacobs had Diana Vreeland on his mind while Giles gave his women a black, goth lipstick and a lot of vinyl. The pussy bow shirt gave the right amount of sex to that.

Bohemian rhapsody was present everywhere at Chloe, where Clare Keller thought about Kate Bush’ ponchos and patch-worked dresses. Stella Jean had her ethnic chic being transformed into something more bohemia while Burberry‘s Christopher Bailey brought classical, gypsy-esque mood.

#FREETHENIPPLE had a moment on the AW15 runways. Sheer textiles stole the spotlight (think Marc Jacobs). And sometimes, nothing covered model’s breasts. Jacquemus made us think of dadaistic escapism and Hedi Slimane’s Saint Laurent had a mini-dress which didn’t cover one of the boobies. Lemaire went more alternative, and created a one-of-a-kind leather bag, shaped in two breasts. The effect seemed to be sensual.

Pastels. Not much to say. Bottega Veneta and Prada went pistachio green while Alessandro Dell’Acqua had blush pink all over his cute skirts and shirt at No21.

Blame Alessandro Michele. His recent Gucci debut was all about romance. It was sexy and smart and flirty. It made me of Rubens, Raffaello, Botticelli and other Italian masters of painting. Erdem from London also took a bite from romantic theme, making his AW15 woman exude with fragility and love.

Green flowers. And ultra-mini trend. Brought by Johan Galliano at Maison Margiela.

Fluffy furs were the thing for AW15. Celine, Altuzarra and Louis Vuitton had those sweet, warm and cozy white / pink furs. The one worn by Freja Beha at Louis Vuitton might be a nice thing to wear on a freezing wedding day because it’s so elegant and chic at the same time.

Shiny is more than cool. Anthony Vaccarello and Paco Rabanne shined bright with their dazzling and flickering stud-embroidered suede dresses and sporty mini-dresses.

Checks, checks and checks made the dresses and skirts of the season. Creatures of the Wind had this beautiful twirled skirt with gingham all over it; Miu Miu brought perverse shirts with naive patterns; A.W.A.K.E. went full with checks.

Survivor kit of AW15 officially must contain – DsQuared fringed poncho, Celine “mademoiselle” cape, Sacai anorak coat.

Comfort is always the most important. Victororia Beckham, Lemaire, Stella McCartney, Hermes, Jil Sander, Protagonist and Proenza Schouler know that, by creating beautiful, soft wool dresses, coats and sweaters.

According to Haider Ackermann, a bit of rock’n’roll is mandatory in every wardrobe. Leather skirts, black blazers and strong red accents are not only punk, but also very dandy and refined, if we look at Dries Van Noten or Lanvin. But still, the smoking suit contest is won by A.F. Vandevorst.

The Japanese designers go avant-garde. As always. Comme des Garcons brings on the topic of sadness through black lace and voluminous silhouettes; Yohji Yamamoto‘s women exude with mystery; Junya Watanabe uses mathematics in order to create clothes out of this world. The Irish & Korean native, Simone Rocha, thinks Louise Bourgeois and her suspended artworks.

Khaki; military; olive. So many ways to describe this shade of green, used in great way by Raf Simons at Dior, Mona Kowalska at A Détacher and Jason Wu.

Denim. Literally and basing the idea on jeans blue. Rachel Comey, Marques Almeida and Louis Vuitton make us drool for a new pair of Levis.

Trend Report SS15

October 24, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Summer is the time when we loose our self to the beach, sun, parties. And it also bring the new tendencies to fashion. The SS15 season is simply full of bright, chic ideas- with Seventies influences from Saturday night fever to hippy deluxe, a khaki nod to military style alongside nautical accents, experiments with transparency, patchworks of vintage prints and a mix & match approach to volume and fabric, for summer 2015 we’re set to see contrast take center stage. It’s a storm of ideas this season. So here’s Design & Culture by Ed’s TREND REPORT for summer.

Who doesn’t love boho? It’s so french, slightly gypsy and very comfortable. Mix delicate, fragile fabrics with over-sized trousers and turbans; invest in a huge, ethnic towel or cape for beach days. Stepping straight out of 1970s Marrakech, these long, light and flowing dresses will billow in the breeze this summer as you take on the elements in style. Inspired with over-sized style Talitha Getty, the boho chic feels totally all right for summer. Baja East, Dries Van Noten, Missoni, Chloe, Rodebjer.

Again, beach. Nautical stripes and captain jackets are the IT trend if talking of a summer escape. Or even a spa run-away. Take Acne Studios, where the models wore towels as mini dresses. Or Jacquemus which talked about beaching season in his beloved Marseille in France. And even dough beach-fashion might make you think sexy, the designers for SS15 are much more democratic and safe (unless you forget your bikini under Lanvin’s mesh top)! Anthony Vaccarello, Jacquemus, Marc Jacobs, Acne Studios, Lanvin.

Oriental vibe was on most of the designer’s mood-boards. Obi belts, kimono silhouttes, sharp colours were all here during the Milan and Paris fashion week! There is something sensual in these cut-outs. and the japonesque over-sized trousers look chic with sandals and quiet, comfortable pumps. It’s truly a zen state for summer. Alexander McQueen, Marni, Gucci, Celine.

Boyish trend is nothing really, new but the androgynity grows in power every season. Blazers, tailored trousers and le smokings from 70’s are stealing the spotlight. Also, the business woman in mini skirts chages her femme fatale shirt into a delicate, loose tank top. Saint Laurent, Maison Martin Margiela, Sonia Rykiel.

Lace is the most fragile fabric of all. It’s a bit ironic, but at the same time very naive and feminine. Nicolas Ghesquiere looked at this traditional materials from a much more modern perspective, while Chloe made the lace dresses a great tribute to the 70’s free spirit. Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Givenchy, Chloe, Louis Vuitton.

Who ever said that prints should be same? The SS15 is full-filled with everything- from florals like at Celine (YES.) to sharktooth a Mona Kowalski’s A Detacher. It was surely one of the most cheerful seasons for a long time… Roksanda, Thakoon, Celine, A Detacher, Marc by Marc Jacobs.

Loose yourself to dance! The 70’s glamour and Saturday Night Fever are back in opulent, sexy and chic way. Who knows it best? Tom Ford. Those transparent tops with flowers embroidered on nipples and the high waisted trousers are the perfect fit for a lux disco. Acne Studios, Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant, Tom Ford.

And now a contrast way of partying- being the Uptown girl, with a creme sweater, white blazer and comfortable, but elegant trousers. The New Yorker and Parisians know that trend best. It’s not about “drifting in gold”. It’s about being “less is more”. Celine, Victoria Beckham, Lanvin, Tibi.

Khaki is a movement of military trend although this season, it’s much more calm and elegant. V-neck sweaters, bomb dresses, artsy tracksuits and leather coats are the thing for active summers in forests. Khaki, in overall, is a cool colour. Creatures of Comfort, Sonia Rykiel, Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Hermes.

Fly high and free as a bird! Feathers and feather like materials made all of the gowns look fresh and beautiful. MSGM’s main motive was freedom, which was perfectly represented by small, paradise hummingbirds and parrots. Fendi flies, too, with their chic cocktail dresses. MSGM, Proenza Schouler, Fendi, Balenciaga.

I am in love with this trend, as it’s my moment’s obsession. Old, oriental tapestries and 70’s patterns were combined together, to create dreamy coats, dresses and pantalons. The proof for the new electic chic is the incredible fabrics at Dries Van Noten, the graphic foliage and florals at Maison Martin Margiela, and Prada’s eastern evocations. Maison Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Maison Martin Margiela, Prada.

Art always go in pair with fashion. That’s why the biggest artists of SS15, Juny Watanabe and Thomas Tait, brought as cubism in new, super bold dimension. This season saw an intriguing combination of influences from Roy Lichtenstein, one of the world’s leading pop-artists, Mondrian and Sonia Delaunay. With circle motifs, bright colors and bold, intersecting stripes the collections were a truly vibrant display. Loewe, Junya Watanabe, Dries Van Noten, Thomas Tait, Roksanda.

RED RED RED RED. Bloody red. Rose red. Love red. Temper red. Leather red. Vetements, Comme des Garcons, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu.

Black & white is a combination of modernity and elegance. It’s a classic. It’s ethernal. Jonathan Anderson of his name-sake brand mastered this contrast in a very lady-like way, while Anthony Vaccarello made the models look like sex bombs in those giving-leg gowns. Balmain, J.W. Anderson, Anthony Vaccarello.

What is American style? It’s all about being fit, loving rodeo, having a cacti and playing Barbie. My new favourite all-American labels? Mara Hoffman which fuses denim with crochet and The Elder Statesman, which is all about dyed prints and best, U.S. quality. It’s an American Dream! Mara Hoffman, The Elder Statesman, Iceberg, Alexander Wang, Moschino.

Trend Report AW14

March 23, 2014November 4, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

As the winter shows for 2014 ended, I must admit- that was the season of elegance. Comparing to SS14, it wasn’t artsy, but it was classical. The pieces are mostly timeless and wearable, while the colour palette is between black and pastel pink to seductive red and safe beige… maybe you may say it sounds boring, but don’t be disappointed- it’s not. Just recall Alessandro Dell Acqua at Rochas, Jeremy Scott at Moschino, Nicolas Ghesquiere at Louis Vuitton, the “relaxing” Marc Jacobs collection or 70′s mad Prada! No. That wasn’t a bad season. It was a season of calmness and femininity.

Cocoon Coat- Large coat means more than a fur this season. And if it’s a cocoon-parachute coat, then it’s even better! It’s warm, practical and artsy- you may wear it the whole winter, forgetting about sweaters, scarves and all others! Kenzo, Chloe, Yohji Yamamoto

Sweet Sixties- This time, the sixties mean biker jackets, leather coats, fur tops and monochrome mini-dresses. The perfect example is Gucci, which was inspired with archival jet-set and timeless pieces… Just like Louis Vuitton which showed as a coat that is already a must-have of the season. Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Victoria Beckham, Saint Laurent

The New Knitwear- Forget your grandma’s sweaters. AW14 is the time of new knits- they may be knotted around your neck, used as trousers, worn like a huge Grizzly bear or styled in a very attractive way. Don’t forget a matchy hand-bag and the Derby shoes! Stella McCartney, Christophe Lemaire, Celine, The Row, Marc Jacobs

Borrowed from the Man- A over-sized masculine jacket is just the right thing this season. But it shouldn’t be worn formally- a skirt giving a leg or a printed shirt will make it feminine and chic. And if you don’t fear the nipple, wear it like Anja Rubik at Anthony Vaccarello! Hermes, Anthony Vaccarello, Haider Ackermann, Maison Martin Margiela, Comme des Garcons

Robe- this is a fresh thing- wear a robe as a coat! Or rather a coat looking like your bath-robe. Surely this option will hit the street style looks and going to dominate everywhere. Simply tie the belt around your waist and go ahead for winter! Marques Almeida, Isa Arfen, Celine, Altuzarra, Moschino

The Queen of Gold- “The color gold is the color of success, achievement and triumph. Associated with abundance and prosperity, luxury and quality, prestige and sophistication, value and elegance, the psychology of this color implies affluence, material wealth and extravagance.” Saint Laurent, Prada, Thom Browne

Red- This color is a warm and positive color associated with our most physical needs and our will to survive. It exudes a strong and powerful masculine energy. Ha. Thomas Tait, Rosie Assoulin, Saint Laurent, Prada, Isa Arfen, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Prabal Gurung, Sacai

Velvet Nights- Velvet is very a ce soir. It was used in sensual gowns, jumpsuits and laser-cut gothic dresses… velvet is surely the fabric you want to wear for Winter. Erdem, Jason Wu, Tom Ford, Chanel

Safari Girl is very sexy- the new girl in panther print is just the right think. Wear an animal printed coat with militaire khaki trousers and heels to make whole Paris yours… Rrrraawwwrrrrrr… Balmain, Givenchy, Isabel Marant, Givenchy,

Pastel Pink- Candy coats, girlie jackets, romantic maxi dresses… and all kept in beautiful, pale pastel pink. It looks perfect even on fur! Just note Marc Jacobs- his fur jackets were a pastel spectrum of apricot, purple and blush… simply cute! Christopher Kane, Delpozo, Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Rochas

Artsy/Craftsy- It’s a bit tribal and a bit Grandma-ish. Presented on dresses, bags and tops, knitwear and hand-made fabrics where kind of everywhere. This trend is cozy and warm… while very chic and elegant! Maki Oh, Louis Vuitton, Suno, Altuzarra, Rodarte

Volume Vs. Sheer- wearing a sheer skirt with a voluminous chunky sweater or huge, huge, huge aviator jacket is just the right thing. Why? It looks a bit elusive and very sexy… and you still can give some leg during winter. Fendi, No.21, No.21, Sacai

Astrakhan- take out your old Astrakhan fur, and wear it like it’s new- maybe it’s not very warm, but looks luxurious, chic and elegant. MSGM used it on masculine coats, and Tom Ford made it… well, Tom Ford. MSGM, Celine, Tom Ford, Miu Miu

Fur is Art- what only did not happen to fur this season- it was in a form of expression for the designers. But most of all, it was very cubical. And surely, colourful. Fendi, 3.1. Philip Lim, Altuzarra, Roksanda Ilincic, Alexander McQueen, Marni

The Perfect Black Coat- I think it’s pretty logical key trend. Who doesn’t want a black coat during winter? And additionally, worn as a dress? And that Celine one with white buttons is a must-have… Celine, Lanvin, Chanel, Dior

Werk Gurrl- Girl, work it out. Sporty chic is back for good in form of parkas, warm jackets, gym sweatshirts and tennis dresses. And, remember that your sport-wear must be colourful. Just like the one from Sacai or Wang… Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Sacai, Alexander Wang, Fendi, Miu Miu

Happy Prints- these circles, stripes and waves just make you smile. Maybe the season was more about elegance and timeless fashion, but these 60′s/70′s prints at Prada are not a bad idea. Acne, Dries Van Noten, Prada, Valentino

Illusion– Hypnotize yourself and your friends with a very magical dress or coat… This psychedelic trend isn’t about 60′s, but about power of illusion. I am already attracted to it like to the whole, AW14 season…

TREND REPORT SS14

November 1, 2013August 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Definitely, November is the right time to get to know closer the hottest trends from SS14 runways. In this exclusive guide to the new season, you will find lots of inspirations, new designers and the most coolest styles and looks of Summer 2014. From the gold skirts to net tops, and from tribal inspirations to modern art, there is no way to miss this amazing season!

GOLD RUSH- the golden polished skirts and dresses are definitely not only classics of Summer wardrobe, but also a must have this season. Proenza Schouler, Dries Van Noten, Haider Ackermann, Creatures of The Wind, Altuzarra.

RED WINE- The colour of burgundy seems to be a pretty heavy colour for Summer- but no worries, Marc Jacobs and Margiela made it top listers, so why not give it a try? Maison Martin Margiela, Givenchy, Proenza Schouler, Marc Jacobs.

TRIBE ATTACK- Designers of SS14 were really inspired with African and South American tribes. Alexander McQueen show took us to a futuristic Masai village, were women wear feathers, reds and helmets; Valentino however visited South American major places like Incan and Aztec empires, plus having a peek at Mexico and Guatemala… Valentino, Givenchy, Alexander McQueen, Junya Watanabe.

ART_ART_ART- While all the major art fairs are taking place, the Summer 2014 season is totally covered with Jeff Koons, Picasso and Damien Hirst. Chanel’s cute dresses with paint prints are simply adorable. And Prada? Even more artsy than ever! Chanel, Prabal Gurung, Celine, Prada, Comme des Garcons.

BIKER GIRL- As punk and grunge was hottest last Winter, now it’s all about the biker jacket- looking good with everything. Style your like at Saint Laurent and Louis Vuitton! Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton, Jean Paul Gaultier.

THINK PINK- Pink, the Summer classic. Do I have to mention something more? Alexander Wang, Balmain, Giles, Isabel Marant, Jacquemus.

FLOWER POWER- “Flowers… how unusual for Summer.” Definitely it is pretty normal for SS, but… Christopher Kane took us to the new level of flower-power. Lets have a peek at an usual boring Biology book, and then at Chris SS14 collection. Love it! Christopher Kane, Dior, Marni, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana.

TROPICAL- Well, don’t mix Tropical rain forests with Parisian roses. The tropical trend is more about printed Jumsuits and trousers- just like at Hermes, where Christophe Lemaire took us to a beautiful orangerie… Marc Jacobs, Hermes, No.21, Mary Katrantzou

WHITE ON WHITE- White this season is very pure and fresh. Beautiful sportwear from Balenciaga and Erdem’s casuality… is so white! Calvin Klein, Balenciaga, Simone Rocha, Erdem.

NET FORCE- Net tops are certainly comfortable and air-permeable. They are mix of sporty chic with elegance… and will look good only without underwear. Just like at Alexander Wang, who styled it with high trousers and socks! Gucci, Alexander Wang, Dior, Anthony Vaccarello.

IN THE GYM- Loose it all up because this Summer we’re going out for some jogging! And the best who knows what is best for daily sport, are New Yorkers- Victoria Beckham and Rag & Bone knows how to do a good warm up! Rag & Bone, Victoria Beckham, Jonathan Saunder, Rick Owens, Alexander Wang.

PICNIC PARTY- Squares, checks, polka dots, spirals… we love all of them. Rodarte, Roland Mouret, Balmain, Derek Lam, Sportmax, 3.1. Philip Lim.

SHINE BRIGHT- Shine like a shooting star in one of the hottest looks of the fashion month- Jason Wu, Fendi, Lanvin… The shiny trend is sexy and great for evenings. Or, for a Summer blast at the beach! Jason Wu, Fendi, Lanvin, Gucci, Christopher Kane, Saint Laurent.

MARINE CHIC- Forget stripes while thinking of marine chic. It’s all about ecology and safety these days, so leave your hands in Kenzo’s and Julien David’s hands. This specific trend gives is a little reminder of beach paradise… That’s why we love it! Acne, Kenzo, Julien David, Olympia Le-Tan.