Tribal Attack. Proenza Schouler AW15

February 20, 2015February 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I think Proenza Schouler discovered TOO many fields for AW15. Fish net tights. Tribal embroidery (feathers, some kind of jungle decoration which came out of nowhere) . Flesh-exposure (Helmut Lang’s calling!). It wouldn’t be a Proenza Schouler collection without the complex textile processes that make their pieces so special and so synthetic. Backstage, they called it their most technical collection yet – as they described sections of “chiffon needle-punched over over and again to create a stiffened fabric used on the tailoring and the tweed that was made out of strips of fabrics, that were especially woven for the purpose”. Even without knowing the ins and outs of all the fabrications, it was obvious that what pulsed through was pure innovation. But innovation doesn’t always mean a good collection. I prefer when the collection has a fluent line, even if it’s is called abstract, sophisticated or mindful. In this collection, Jack and Lazaro lost this fluency which they always mastered in previous collections. Plus, I can’t forgive the fish-net tights. But, look! They debuted with menswear! There is only one look for men, but. Although, I don’t feel this specific collection, I am truly interested where Proenza Schouler is heading in the future,

Acne Dibs

July 25, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Acne’s AW14 is a collection, which you must understand. The Ikea like printed textiles, psychodelic patterns, wooden “masai-like” plate necklaces, simple, pastel colours… we our somewhere between minimalistic Scandinavia and tribal Africa. Initial and final reaction? A dynamic burst of contrasting prints and unconventionally structured garments, with underlying elements of sportswear innovation. And the unexpected headwear… ann abstract take on the timeless bobble hat, fabricated in duck-egg blue tweed, charcoal fur, caramel felt and rough silvery grey wool. They were worn oversized, leaving half of each models face peeping through. I feel this collection well- one of the strongest by Acne Studios! Photos by Lea Colombo.

Urban-Tribe. Givenchy Pre-Fall’14

January 6, 2014January 8, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Looks like we have the most amazing collection for Pre-Fall! Riccardo Tisci outdid himself- this collection for Givenchy is so beautiful, oriental but at the same time modern! Full of sequinned sari dresses, masculine boots and blazers, colourful gowns and printed jackets, the presentation was done in snowy New York with models like Jamie Bochert. I’s kept in Riccardo’s recent mood- African tribal style mixed with casual urban pieces. The collection is not only interesting, but also very refreshing and elegant!

UFO Tribes. McQueen SS14

October 2, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Alexander McQueen Summer for 2014 was defintely out of this world. Sarah Burton changed her characteristic avant-garde style of past English Queen gowns with lace and pearls into alien costumes, dresses and trousers in grafic prints and strong colours. The collection was inspired with African tribes… but possibly coming from Mars. The plexi killer heels that really remind Alexander McQueen’s footwear when he was alive were so, so cosmic! The sexy bustiers mixed with feathers reminded of strong women wearing futuristic creations, and the gold helmets… And the last four looks are certainly this, what the techno Masais wear in the future. And possibly in very close future!

Aztec Opulence. Valentino SS14

October 2, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Valentino was definitely one of the most beautiful collections of the season. With the SS14’s tribal influence, Valentino took us to South America, where Aztecs and Mayas decorated their temples in opulent and splendour way. The craftsmanship of the collection is impressive- all the couture embroideries on dresses looked like if were made by one of the local Mexican women, dying and threading each flower and shape into silk. There were also some inspirations with Latin explorer-chic- suede capes with frenzies, sandals, jewellery with zodiac amazing use of denim with Guatemalan skirts and tops. However, there was something about sexy 70’s of Hollywood and Byzantine luxury hidden in the looks- crowns, rich colours, sensual lace, ribboned shirts… Valentino not only took as into the beautiful journey to South America and it’s secrets, but also made it in surrounded with European qualities and chic!