Ageing like a Forest. Undercover AW16

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Ageing is beautiful, and Jun Takahashi of Undercover reminds the industry about that. “Making relaxwear for all ages” was the main concept behind this avant-garde outing, filled with printed pajamas, cocooning knitwear (the pastel blue cardigan striped coat had this lovely, spongy texture!) and layered outerwear. The models’ age range varied, and such silver-haired beauties as Hannelore Knuts appeared in the show, wearing a white crown of thorns – but not with a religious message, so no doubts. It was rather connected to the imaginary, ethereal queens of forests which also had dried hydrangeas in their hair. Another clue of the forest life inspiration? Gigantic, felt wool ants and bees carried like stoles by the Undercover women. Takahashi goes against the flow, and he has a talent of doing what he does best – not looking at other designers’ work.

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The gold corset jacket with a voluminous, ballerina skirt… mesmerising.

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La Dame. Undercover AW14

1066454Jun Takahashi’s dreamy AW14 collection for Undercover yesterday got really stuck in my mind. ‘Once upon a time, there was a Parisian dame, which wore crowns made by the Japanese hairstylist, Kamo. She was a queen, but in her mind. The dame wore bourgeois coats with Chinese porcelain print, long gowns in royal colours… She didn’t live in a queen’s palace, but in small apartment on Le Marais. Our dame never gave damn and always wore what she felt like, in very slouchy way.’ Jun Takahashi is the Asian version of Vivienne Westwood- he also has this punk attitude as she… And this Undercover collection is just damn awesome!   P1100558 COPIE_1500_0_resize_90 P1100547 copie_1500_0_resize_90_ARC0747.450x675 P1100552 copie_1500_0_resize_90 P1100570 copie_1500_0_resize_90 1066450 P1100555 copie_1500_0_resize_90