For Her, For Him, For Us. Maryam Nassir Zadeh SS21

And just like that, it’s mid-autumn, and we all dream of (a care-free, mask-less, never-ending) summer. Maryam Nassir Zadeh made that desire even more burning with her spring-summer 2021 look-book, which she shot in Turkey this September (skipping New York Fashion Week altogether). But this season is different for one more reason: there’s Nassir Zadeh’s debut menswear, which is as good as her womenswear. Which basically translates to ultimate heaven. In general, the designer has been feeling a more relaxed, unprecious look these days, usually involving a men’s button-down, silver jewelry and her dad’s vintage leather jacket. It’s an easy, just-odd-enough mix that feels right for the moment. Surely there are guys (me!!!!!) who want that, too – vintage-tinged treasures and refined basics, without logos or sky-rocket price tags. She explained that she’s long been inspired by the men in her life – her father, boyfriends, husband, and longtime stylist Thistle Brown, whom she worked with this season – and dreamed of making men’s clothes for years. The uncertainty of the pandemic made her stop waiting for the “right” moment. The debut line is fundamentally MNZ – the tweaked proportions, soft fabrics, and touches of sensuality – but without the occasional metallic flash or neon blazer of her women’s line. It’s quiet, almost delicate menswear, the kind you’d like to swipe from your boyfriend’s closet and keep forever. That was intentional, of course: Zadeh designed it with guys in mind, but also her close female friends. What kind of shirt or pant or jean could live in both closets?A few pieces were shown on both her female and male models to drive the message home: she wore the hip-slung pleated khakis with a baby tee and shell bra; he wore them with a beige button-down and sandals. Both wore the V-neck sweater vests with nothing underneath: her with a mini skirt, him with over-sized pants. And those enveloping leather jackets were tossed over jeans and lace dresses alike. Buttery-soft, free of hardware, and perfectly anonymous, they might be the ultimate investment piece of 2021. The best part: You can split the cost with your partner.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Spiritual Unisex. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood AW16

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Vivienne Westwood opens a new chapter in her fashion – and it’s called Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. But who is Andreas? No, he isn’t a one-season-only collaborator. He’s Viveinne’s life-partner and her right hand in designing collections, and after many years of their creative reciprocation, Westwood decided to sign her main line’s collections with her love’s surname, too. How romantic. Just as romantic, as the beautiful, deep shade of red on toga-style draping and monkish pants from the autumn-winter 2016 season! Although the collection’s name, Sexercize, might be associated with the British dame’s past (SEX boutique in the heart of London, Kate Moss in boudoir corsets), it was rather about spirituality and gender fluidity. Both women and men wore platform boots, and the oriental manskirts made a cut. Just like the tiny, brass “penis” necklaces (by coincidence, we are heaving a little sex talk with Viv and Comme des Garçons today…), styled with masculine suits or feminine, lamé dresses. The collection, coming from Westwood’s and Kronthaler’s hearts, is full of styling tips, and as the Vivienne stated, “it’s really incredible – look at the amount of innovation!”

Cheers to these two lovebirds!

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Terrific Wedding. Vivienne Westwood AW15

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With Paz de la Huerta closing the show, Vivienne Westwood’s Gold Label was all about a terrific wedding ceremony. And unisex fashion, too. The models oozed with non-chalance and aristocrat-wen-bad attitude; the glitter was everywhere. Girls wore over-sized blazers while the guys prefered dramatic gowns which lacked corsets – #freethenipple moment felt present everywhere. The chaos of this mad party had a riot tension – Vivienne celebrated all types of love in her gleeful collection.

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Biarritz: Thom Browne X Dita

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These mind blowing sunglasses, handmade in entirely Japan and taking inspiration from architecture and machinery of the mid-20th century, these come from Thom Browne in collaboration with California-based eyewear manufacturer, Dita. When I saw them, here in Biarritz, I was like wow! They look really amazing! And this vintage appeal… They are both in white and black- unisex.

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