Father, I’ve Sinned! Valentino AW26

March 15, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Alessandro Michele has added spice – and flame – to his Valentino, and it has been working particularly well lately. First came his toned-down, poetic spring collection, the only show of the season that truly approached the dread of a world on the brink of WWIII. Then followed his vivacious sophomore couture collection, presented just over a week after Valentino Garavani’s passing, which made the fashion heavens rave. And now, the autumn–winter 2026 lineup, presented not in the usual Paris but in Rome, the brand’s home, core, hot-red heart.

This was Valentino through and through, yet captured through Michele’s new perspective. It is rich and full, yes, but he somehow manages to express that opulence in a clean, clear way (forget the heaviness of his Gucci days). His clothes no longer look as if they have been pulled straight from a vintage store or a forgotten attic. The dramatic glamour is still there, but it is glitched – awkwardly so – making it far more intriguing.

Bow-tied belts cinched full-length furs; color-blocked pleated tunics; lace dresses with butterfly-wing-shaped skirts. It is Rome, after all, so there is an inherent tension between the ecclesiastical and the regal, and the naughty, decadent, Fellini-esque spirit of the city. These women go to church on Sunday – but they as easily live a full-on, hedonistic “La Grande Bellezza” life (a dialogue Demna attempted to spark with his Gucci runway debut, but, to me, failed miserably). One aspect that could perhaps be reconsidered is the casting. Adding a few more mature faces would make the collection feel even more vivid and charismatic, as some of the barely twenty-year-old models – likely exhausted by the fashion month marathon – appeared somewhat pale.

ED’s SELECTION:

Valentino Garavani Fetishique 105 Metallic Leather Slingback Sandals

Valentino Garavani Cropped Satin-trimmed Woven Blazer

Valentino Garavani Velvet-trimmed Satin-crepe Maxi Skirt

Valentino Garavani Bowow 25 Suede-trimmed Leopard-print Calf Hair Pumps

Valentino Garavani Bow-embellished Ribbed Cotton-blend And Wool And Silk-blend Crepe Jacket

Valentino Garavani Viva Superstar Medium Leopard-print Calf Hair Shoulder Bag

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Sleeping Beauties. Valentino Resort 2026

July 20, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

There are days when all you want is to lounge around and feel like Lana Del Rey in her “Honeymoon” era. Dreamy, otherworldly, a bit of a baddie. Alessandro Michele certainly had one of those moments while working on Valentino‘s resort 2026 collection, photographed on literal sleeping beauties. FYI: his vintage-inspired dresses not only look great on red carpets and concert stages, but also in bed.

The new collection sees Michele re-looking the codes straight out of Valentino Garavani’s archive: look 1 offered a ruched Valentino-red minidress, its bodice pleats gathered in frontal cutouts just as Garavani used to do. And the bow, another Garavani favorite, dotted everything from hems to heeled mules like a frivolous punctuation mark. On the decorative side, gobelin-like tapestries were crafted into boxy waistcoats trimmed with feathers and fringed micro shorts. Elsewhere Michele’s urge for embellishment was interrupted by slender and elegant evening gowns in plain soft pastels or classic black. Meanwhile, the menswear took cues from the style of Parisian students who took part in 1968 protests, a theme Michele often gravitates towards in his work. A child of the bourgeoisie, out in the streets, looking for love.

P.s. The Valentino clients should really take a look at Alessandro’s accessories, especially bags: he knows how to turn a heirloom from grandmother’s closet into a modern-day treasure. I’m absolutely obsessed with all the heavily-embroidered, fringed satchels.

ED’s SELECTION:

Valentino Garavani Nellcôte Fringed Embellished Suede Tote Bag

Valentino Garavani Fleur Lumineuse Necklace

Valentino Garavani Belted Ruffled Polka-dot Wool And Silk-blend Mini Dress

Valentino Garavani Tasseled Wool And Cashmere-blend Jacket

Valentino Garavani Bowow 45 Crystal-embellished Metallic Suede-trimmed Moiré Pumps

Valentino Garavani Panier De Fleurs Snake-effect Leather-trimmed Embroidered Raffia Tote

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Beauty Is Back. Valentino Pre-Fall 2025

December 15, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

As some of you might remember, at first I was very on fence with Alessandro Michele’s debut take at Valentino. It just felt very archaic to me at the time. But something clicked for me the moment Donald Trump won the elections in the U.S. (here’s the post on that). I suddenly realized I need escapism. A sweet, decadent, indulgent escapism – exactly what Michele is known for through his unhinged vision he channeled at Gucci (with Gucci’s ready-to-wear limits) and now at Valentino, where he’s got the ultimate couture know-how.

This week, Alessandro’s third act for the Rome-based brand got released, and it’s his best one so far. I really liked how Lyas described it as “punk”. It really is punk whilst pretty much everything in fashion right now is pure conservatism, from bland “quiet luxury” minimalism to “office-core” – on the way of trad-wives and white-cube ad campaigns. Michele’s vision couldn’t be further from all that. It’s full-throttle boheme, striking with artisanship and well-traveled, idiosyncratic approach to styling.

His Valentino is of course very vintage-y. Now you might say I’m a hypocrite – I just shaded the Anthony Vaccarello’s nostalgic Saint Laurent collection. But here’s the thing: while you can trace Vaccarello’s vintage-obsession to exact, well-documented references, in case of Michele it’s totally not the case. Alessandro’s history-mania has echoes of Diana Vreeland’s “the eye has to travel” way of thinking. He takes from the past, remixes it, and recontextualizes it. Plus, it’s really striking to see how he not only is inspired with 1970s and 80s fashion (and Valentino Garavani’s work from that period), but also does his best to measure up to the craftsmanship standards of these times.

The pre-fall 2025 collection is transfixingly beautiful and dreamily opulent. The silk dresses are made out of patches of prints, from robust paisley to wallpaper florals; the lace is so intricate it looks like porcelain, and the lush, dense embroideries on velvet jackets and big-sleeved, peasant blouses is beyond. And I went completely crazy for the bags, especially the fringed, knitted pouches. Bode looks kind of poor next to these works of art. New Valentino is heirloom-status fashion. If this is what the label’s ready-to-wear looks like in Alessandro’s hands, I can’t wait for his first haute couture outing.

Unabashed beauty is so back, baby!