I was crying during the show! That was so, so horrifying that Marc Jacobs is out of Louis Vuitton and that it was his last collection for this luxurious fashion house from Paris. Will somebody be better than this American in Paris? Surely, these were fantastic years with Jacobs- Night Porter, geometrical shapes, boudoir, trains, grunge, African tribal inspirations… These were just few of things that were accompanying us together with Jacobs. It will be very sad for now. But, about the collection now. It was like a mix of everything that Marc did for LV. The show was presented in gothic venue with a dark fountain, victorian buildings and a grand clock that gave a dramatic twist to the collection. Edie Campbell, the muse of Marc Jacobs, opened the collection in an amazing logo body, having chains and a massive feather decoration on head. The next models (a lot of famous faces!) were also dresses in Victorian inspired way- detailed gowns, feather hats and… yes, denim jeans that was a surprise. That looked epic. C’mon, only MJ could mix a Victorian dress with jeans. And that’s why my heart will always have a place for Marc Jacobs collection. Even if they will be a fail.
Venue
Exotic. Dior SS14
Raf Simons showed again in Paris, that less is more. And more is more! In the rythms of Kylie Minouge’s Slow, the models walked the runway decorated with thousands of exotic flowers in beautiful dresses and skirts. But first the amazing venue- the Dior show for Summer 2014 was happening in the Rodin Museum in Paris, with a breath-taking view on Montmatre. In a huge campus, the guests were amazed with the smell of exotic flowers and trees from around the world- the colours and natural sunlight made it even more awesome. Coming back to clothes- well, that was something mesmerizing. The shoes stole my heart- stilettos with laces and embroidered flowers were a mix of sport and couture. Just like the collection itself. Delicate, but sporty sweaters were worn with tulle skirts; the suits were revisted thanks to prints on the back; typical Summer dresses were embroidered with flowers. In other words, it was something very fragile and without pretence.Possibly, this is the most beautiful collection of this Summer season… Bravo, Raf!
Weird Party. Marc Jacobs SS14
“It’s more of a weird frat party, Burning Man, shores-of-Gotham City sort of beach scene. It’s a lovely nightmare, or it was for me anyway.” And this, more interestingly: “I didn’t want the cliché of Spring and Summer, I wanted it to be about girls who have no problem coming to work in a Victorian gown and Birkenstocks” said Marc Jacobs about his SS14 collection that with grace closed the New York Fashion Week. The venue was amazing- a huge, huge place, that reminded of something like a beach apocalypse- beach chairs, towels, sand, trees, cigarettes were lying in chaos everywhere. The models (the set of them was really impressive) were for example Cara Delevigne who flew straight from London through Atlantic to walk the runway for Marc and comeback on London Fashion Week… Sky Ferreira (!!!), Edie Campbell, Lily Mcmenamy, Georgia May Jagger and Hanne Gaby were also here. Coming back to collection, Marc Jacobs broke all the rules of the SS14 but in a good way- when everybody were into pure minimalism and pale clothes, MJ slapped it, with a print, embroidery and colour bomb- in a much darker colour than I expected. The clothes were inpired with Victorian era, widow weeds and some 21st century- birkenstocks again rocked the runway just like funny backpack totes! Definitely, that was one of these “weird” parties I would love to come…
Design & Culture by Ed 