Confident & Refined. Victor Glemaud AW22
Victor Glemaud‘s brilliant autumn-winter 2022 outing oozed with the energetic New York chic of the Halston days – and the graceful confidence of the Halstonettes. Lately, Glemaud has been working a more minimalist groove, and this season the designer ramped up that aesthetic, stripping down and paring back his signature vibrant knits. Models sauntered into the marble paved atrium in classic stilettos, their hair tied back with chic headscarves. The collection has its key reference – Ousmane Sembène’s Black Girl, a masterpiece of 1960s cinema that earned the pioneering Senegalese filmmaker international renown. Mbissine Thérèse Diop plays the young Senegalese woman who moves to France to work for a wealthy white family. Her stirring performance is amplified by a wardrobe of impeccable black and white shift dresses. Punctuated with touches of tangerine and soft beige, the collection’s mostly monochromatic palette nodded to Diop’s scene-stealing performance. Glemaud introduced a new, more pliant yarn to his brand this season, and the resulting cut and sew jersey dresses were attention grabbing and flattering on a variety of body types. The most compelling examples were cut with athletic attitude, including clingy hooded racerback maxi dresses, ruched asymmetric LBDs, and stirrup leggings. As a partner to those bodycon looks, Glemaud showed a series of fur coats, perhaps the most unexpected aspect of the collection. With so many brands going fur-free, these days it’s rare to see so much as a fur trim on the runway. Still, for Glemaud the choice made sense. “Fur has a rich history in Black culture and it’s something I don’t think we should be ashamed about,” he said backstage. “I also don’t believe we should live in fear of being canceled.” It was a lovely surprise to discover in the show notes that he had dedicated the collection to “the countless women who left their homelands for the American Dream,” including his elegantly dressed mother and her twin sister, originally from Haiti, who sat in the front row. “I wanted this collection to be a celebration of body and shape, but most of all a celebration of Black women,” said Glemaud. Easily the most powerful statement of the show was the casting of all Black dark-skinned beauties.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
The Gift Guide For Her – Cozy & Chic
This year, I’ve decided to create dream gift guides that might make it easier for you to go (and filter) through the festive season. Get ready for a selection of beautiful items that will spark joy and last for years. The ones that will certainly please one’s senses and deliver heavenly feelings. Treat your loved ones and yourself! Here’s the curated edit of the most covetable delights, which are both cozy and chic!
Covered Up. What’s better than cashmere? To be honest… nothing compares. Cashmere In Love‘s balaclavas are crafted from a super soft glitter infused Mongolian wool cashmere blend, and combine elegance and retro spirit – with a hint of rebellion. Fold it into a beanie or pull it back to use as a neck warmer.
“Megeve” balaclava by Cashmere In Love
Precious & Timeless. Combine durable utility with ravishing exquisiteness.
Marine Serre chain-bag water bottle, Chloé “Franne” ribbed wool and leather boots, Simone Rocha flower drop crystal earrings & Miu Miu pink wool cardigan
Elevate Your Space! A perfect gift for a person that loves to update their surroundings. Or just give this present to your lounge-y living-room.
The Elder Statesman cashmere cushion
Glamorous Lounge-Wear. Especially, if its scented with pêche de vigne combined with Sicilian blood orange, davana oil with infused rum and cognac, Indonesian patchouli, sandalwood, labdanum and vanilla. Or simply: Tom Ford‘s magnificent Bitter Peach.
Tom Ford “Bitter Peach” fragrance, Victor Glemaud purple and red knitted tank top, Saint Laurent round earrings & Cashmere in Love knitted cashmere pants
Soft Minimalism. If you’re in search for a timeless, elegant gift, look no further – Lemaire is the perfect label. I mean, those boots! They are b-e-a-u-t-i-f-u-l!
Lemaire printed boots made in collaboration with Martin Ramirez & Lemaire silver long drop earrings
Comfort Zone. 2020 wasn’t easy, we all know that. Take some time for a rest. Comfort for your skin, for your feet, for your senses…
Lauren Manoogian hand-knit scarf, Louise Madzia “Body” plant pot, Chloé chain necklace, Augustinus Bader “The Face Oil” & Bottega Veneta quilted sneakers
Helmut Newton is always a good idea.
Helmut Newton “SUMO” 20th Anniversary Edition Book by Taschen & Wolford x Helmut Newton Edition t-shirt
Tactile Statement Pieces. Pick from Julia Heuer‘s fantastic pleats or Lauren Manoogian‘s fleecy alpaca slippers, and you’ve got the gift that keeps on giving each season, at any occasion.
Julia Heuer Multicolor cardigan, Julia Heuer trousers, Lauren Manoogian alpaca slippers & Bottega Veneta sculptural clutch bag
Knitwear. The softest and fleeciest of them all? A great knit is an unforgettable present, which will serve for years and years and years to come.
Brunello Cucinelli abstract knitted jumper, Lauren Manoogian beige cardigan, Lauren Manoogian alpaca dress & The Elder Statesman tie-dyed cashmere hoodie
Chloé argyle wool and cashmere-blend knit, Louise Madzia ceramic plate, Diptyque “Tubereuse” candle& Cashmere in Love hoodie
Nocturnal Chic. Eveningwear that will easily jump to bold, everyday wardrobe? Dries Van Noten never dissapoints, and his gorgeous autumn-winter 2020 is the definition of the word ‘festive’.
Dries Van Noten sequined chiffon shirt, Dries Van Noten feather trimmed sequin chiffon skirt & Dries Van Noten quilted velvet skirt
More festive gift guides are coming soon!
All collages by Edward Kanarecki.
The Look – Glemaud AW20
In support for the Black community, I continue celebrating and highlighting the talented individuals that shape fashion today. Take notes! If you haven’t read my post on the Glemaud, the most exciting, New York-based knitwear label, take a look here. In the above collage, the simple, yet strikingly elegant purple knitted dress looks even more divine in Arthur Mitchell’s legendary Dance Theater of Harlem – here photographed by Lord Snowdon (and starring the one and only Iman!).
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Focus On: Victor Glemaud
In support for the Black community, I continue celebrating and highlighting the talented individuals that shape fashion today. Take notes! Haitian-born, New York-based designer Victor Glemaud launched his eponymous leisurewear collection of statement knitwear, designed for all people, genders, races, sizes and personalities, marrying comfort and style, in 2006. The designer was a finalist in the 2017 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and honored for his achievements by the Ambassador of Haiti to the United States. For his recent collection – autumn-winter 2020 – Victor used three materials: merino wool, cotton cashmere, and a merino-cotton-ramie blend. Glemaud’s unparalleled sense of color makes his knitted garments even more compelling. A lavender-tomato back-to-front knit set is a highlight. Within his ringer midi dresses and pooling flares are a variety of stitched details that amplify the power of his clothes. His coats, actually fully knit, have the weigh and potency of felted wool. But the best thing Glemaud did on his runway (his first) was show his clothing on a glamorous cast of people of all types. As his turban-clad models – an homage to both his friend Camilla Staerk and the women he grew up with – sauntered around a lounge in the SoHo Grand hotel, audience members could be heard whispering, picking out a must-have pant or bolero sweater. That kind of inclusivity translates to real customers who will be delighted at the prospect of wearing a square-neck minidress with Nike sneakers. Looking back at his previous collections, the autumn-winter 2019 look-book starring Indya Moore, the incredible trans actress from Pose, makes you dream of all the tangerine knits. Pre-fall 2020 has seen Glemaud leaning into his grooviest, hip-swiveling impulses, filled with gorgeous crochet dresses, tunics, and flares. Discover Glemaud’s universe here.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki, photos of Victor Glemaud‘s looks from autumn-winter 2020, pre-fall 2020 and autumn-winter 2019.