Fluidity. Jil Sander Pre-Fall 2020

Lucie and Luke Meier‘s vision for Jil Sander is all about soft, tactile minimalism (which occasionally lets some eclecticism in). For pre-fall 2020, the duo once again showed their appreciation for craft. A skirt suit was padded and stitched with an abstract floral motif, while an ensemble in soft pink satin had a luscious, almost liquid finish. Fluidity of the silhouette is a big topic for the Meiers – they continue to master it, creating refined, feminine, yet magically comfortable forms. Please do note the feminine lines of the décolletages, borrowed from corsetry and delicately lined with inconspicuous embroideries (see the high-waisted ruched slipdress). Art references are also crucial in their vision for Jil Sander. Recently, the designers have been fascinated by the Viennese Secession movement, extensively researching the work of Wiener Werkstätte’s artists like Josef Hoffmann, Koloman Moser, and the textile designer Maria Lucia Stadlmayer. Their aesthetics, which flourished at the juncture of Art Nouveau’s sensuality and Japonisme’s sophisticated restraint, clearly appealed to the Meiers. For pre-fall, Stadlmayer’s graphic patterns were reproduced in their original proportions and colors on sheer organza layers, juxtaposed over sharp-cut silk twill or silk jersey shirts, skirts, and tunics, inducing a slightly kinetic, blurred chromatic effect. “We used the motifs on their authentic scale, because you have permission from the archives in Vienna to reproduce them only in the exact proportions and colors she intended to use,” they said. “We really cared about keeping the integrity of the design; we didn’t want to appropriate them in the wrong way.”

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The Sacred Ritual of Art

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Brazilian artist Ernesto Neto has joined forces with shamen, artists and plant masters from the Huni Kuin, an indigenous tribe from Peru and Brazil for the Aru Kuxipa exhibition at Thyssen-Bornemisza Art Contemporary in Vienna. The result is a ethereal  “site of healing”, that lets audience discover the lives and spiritual practices of a smal group, over 8000 kilometres away from their lands. Neto, one of Brazil’s leading contemporary artists, is known for his huge installations of “amorphous“, pod-like hanging sculptures, or “fabric stalactites”, as he calls them. Soft and made of polyester filled with rice or sand, his work is playful and sensual, his pieces invites viewers to touch, lie on, and even smell the work. “The Huni Kuin had to create a new culture because they were previously forbidden to exercise it – the rituals, dancing, singing, speaking in their own languages“. Now, their culture is alive in the heart of Vienna.

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St Bartholomew’s Church

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Meantime, in the break between fashion weeks, I thought it would be nice to write about some design! And here it is- the St. Bartholomew Church in Chodovice design by Jakub Berdych and Maxim Velcovsky. The interior inside is for me fantastic- old walls, baroque columns and or a total contrast white Eames chairs and Verner Panton’s sculptural armachairs with newly cut crosses. And these furniture are for prayers!

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I think this church is totally breaking all the well known stereotypes of the church design, and I think this kind of a prayer place makes you not think about the past, but about the future. But still, I love old, gothic cathedrals and churches, with beautiful ornaments and paintings inside, just like the one in Vienna!

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Advanced Style of Vienna

In Vienna the biggest trendsetter are the… Elder people! They have a really advanced style- mixing mink furs, vintage coats, furry hats and black classical shoes are their signature.

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But there is also other type of Advanced Style- the one that mixes men’s jacket and trousers plus Rick Owens trainers!

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Vienna 24h in Style

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Vienna is a city that has it’s tradition (where else nowadays you can find ladies and gentlemens coming on a dinner in long evening gowns, diamonds, smoking or a tie for everyday?) that is well treated and at the same it has a youth spirit. It’s like a mix of Zurich and Berlin. Today we were here for a day. And I should say that I am really suprised! This city is just cool! We are staying in Hotel Sacher, where the first ever Sacher Torte (a delicious chocolate cake founded by Eduard Sacher. His recipe for it is kept in secret in the hotel safe) was made. The hotel is very beautiful and full of ornaments. The wallpapers are very elegant and delicate. And the painting around are just stunning.

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The green room was where we ate a Austrian breakfast- first time from 2 weeks a fried egg! After in the morning we visited St. Stepane Cathedral one of the most beautiful ones in the world. It was very gothic and massive. But the treasury were the golden ornaments were found, were I think a inspiration for Dolce&Gabbana Men’s AW13 show. Gold, stones, hand made… The interesting thing in the cathedral is the roof that has some triangular shapes on it.

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And now let’s go to the fun part- shopping! In Vienna, jewellery takes a important role in fashion- it’s always crazy and colourful or elegant and rich. In this superb boutique of B Reisch, the fantasy is never ending. You like giraffes or cucumbers- you can find them on earings! There were cheries, fish, squirrels- this shop is just on my Nr.1 list in Vienna. The antiquaries are also popular here with some asian sculptures, the same as modern galleries with “nice price” of 14’000€ per piece of art!

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Vienna has it, if we talk about unique fashion stores. The Chanelish, Armanish and Guccish ones are really boring if comparing to the hottest boutiques in the city- Chegini and Amicis. Chegini is a line of Vienese shops that got labels like Celine, Margiela, McCartney, Owens… It has women’s and men’s wear. The biggest store is really cool, it’s similar to the NY Soho ones. And here are two Lena’s looks she bought!

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Look 1- Celine dress and shoes
Look2- Celine shirt, Stella McCartney pants, Celine shoes+ Celine small yellow bag.
The second shop I loved was with menswear, Amicis. It’s her wher you can buy Givenchy and Balenciaga! The selection was so wonderful… And various McQueen t-shirts are just my dream- the biggest is the one with dragonfly wings on.

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~FOOD of Vienna~
-Of course the Sacher Torte with whipped cream is a absolute winner- “Be aware of fakes, eat the Sacher only in Vienna” the motto of my hotel is. Thanks to this cake, in the hotel you can find a Sacher shampoo, Sacher towels, Sacher TV, Sacher…

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-The recent fashionable restaurant/bar/cafe in Vienna is Fabios. The interior is cosmic- dark glass, wooden/neon floors and so on. The food is lite and modern, but really good. It’s simple. He must try is the Beef Tatar and Organic chicken

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Vienna is a lovely place in other words, and I hope I will visit it for longer soon!

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