Viktor & Rolf thought of something so clear for today’s celebrities- red carpets. For their third haute couture show, they changed the whole runway into an endless red carpet. And, amazingly, the clothes were also red… and were made out of carpets, mostly. If you are interested how to knot your red, bathroom rug around your body, here is your perfect guide. Should I write more?
Comme des Garcons AW14
“Fashion is reactionary,” said Valerie Steele, the director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Sensibly, she explained that fashion is moving away from “a close-to-the-body moment.” “It’s the pendulum effect,” she said. “If it’s long, it gets short, and if it’s short, it gets long.” Fashion changes a lot just like proportions. This fall, it’s all about a large coat with too long sleeves and over-sized shoulders. Just like the one at CdG by Rei Kawabuko, whose boundary-fight with stereotypical beauty is just on it’s place this season. I really loved what Prada had in it’s offer- 70’s masculine jackets. Looked elegant, but very on the go. And of course, lets not forget about VFiles Melitta Baumeister, who loves dressing Rihanna in white fur stoles and large, leather jackets! Her new season collection is amazingly cool. in a very BIG way.
Rick Owens AW14
Melitta Baumeister AW14
Viktor & Rolf 1999 Haute Couture
Jonathan Saunders AW14
Prada AW14
Viktor & Rolf took as to a new, elevated level of Haute Couture. First of all… the models were real ballerinas. Styled as zombie-dolls dancing around the runway, Viktor & Rolf made a great performance (and just remind yourself AW13’s couture done by VF… meditation and zen were the main keywords). The collection was made only of latex- the nude coloured dresses, skirts and bustiers looked a bit sinister and scary… just like the eerie hair that the ballerinas had on! Definitely, if talking of fashion entertainment, Viktor & Rolf as usually marks all the points.
Viktor & Rolf wasn’t present on the Haute Couture calendar for about 13 years and the label have changed a bit into a more commercial subject than couture. But, this summer,Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren made a decision: They staged their comeback in honor of their label’s twentieth anniversary—”there’s no better way to celebrate,” Rolf said, adding that it was also an effort to “divide our wearable side and our conceptual side.”
Very high concept it was. The presentation was more like a art performance than a show. On a Zen garden platform with few black blocks on it remaining rocks, both designer came out and… Started to meditate! It lasted for about five minutes, and then the models appeared. The looks weren’t very detailed- but their forms were a sculpture by it’s own. All twenty wore the same black fabric, a technical silk that had the spongy look of neoprene, and flat ropy sandals. The first look out, a shirtdress, had strange, deflated volumes above the knees in front and below them in back. And now the performance started- Snoeren situated the first model on a block, reforming the dress in his own patent. The next model sat down next to the first one. Horsting was doing his job in this performance. And at the end, the model in a huge cape stood in the middle of the girls, covering them all, forming a black stone! Fantastic! This looked so relaxed, ZEN, that I felt in love with this collection. About the project’s genesis, Viktor said, “We’ve been running around for so long, we thought, let’s enjoy where we are. Our current state of mind is mindfulness”
Design & Culture by Ed 