The Look – Marc Jacobs AW20

Marc Jacobs‘ phenomenal autumn-winter 2020 collection is probably one of my favourite moments of the entire season. The runway featured a dance performance choreographed by Karole Armitage, New York’s „punk ballerina”, with the catwalk staged like a bistro. At some point it was hard to tell who’s the model and who’s the dancer (everybody was dressed in Jacobs), and that was the intention: beauty in chaos, told through powerful movement. Infinitely inspired by his heroes of the past and present, it is style, in which different people dress at the various stages, ages and times in their lives, that provokes Marc’s love for fashion and possibilities of what it can be. The designer especially had the fading image of disappearing New York in his mind – forever mythical and chic, with its „beauty, promise, sparkle and grit”. The simple, yet unbelievably elegant look Sara Grace Wallerstedt wore – black bra worn underneath a cable-knit cardigan, black pencil skirt, kitten heels with socks and a head-band – is the style refinement level that equals to Holly Golightly’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s wardrobe. When I rewatched this film a few days ago, I just couldn’t not think about Jacobs’ recent line-up.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki featuring Steven Meisel‘s photo for Vogue Italia‘s April 1999 issue.

Bye, Franca.

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Franca Sozzani, the editor-in-chief of Vogue Italia, passed away yesterday after a year of struggling with a sickness.

28 years ago, she became the editor-in-chief of quite forgotten and dusty Italian edition of Vogue, bringing pulsing energy, erotic seduction and provoking ideas to the again desired pages. Throughout her career, Sozzani invited cult photograohers and stylists, like Tim Walker, Steven Meisel, Joe McKenna or Paolo Roversi, to work on the editorials, and most of all, the non-chalant, yet refined image of Italian Vogue. She was often called the “gold-mine of creativity”, for a reason.

Let’s look back at small part of archival shots and editorials that were done under Sozzani.

No Borders

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This colour palette. The drama. A bit of ‘The Danish Girl’ vibes.

Publication: Vogue Italia March 2016 
Model: Rianne van Rompaey, Lorena Maraschi, Ally Ertel, Anna Cleveland, Caitie Greene, Kit Butler, Niels Trispel, Katlin Aas, China Machado, Marc-André Turgeon, Erika Linder, Yasmin Wijnaldum 
Photographer: Steven Meisel, Benn Northover
 Fashion Editor: Olivier Rizzo

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