EXCLUSIVE: Matthieu Blazy’s Chanel Resort 2026

January 17, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

Even though Chanel presented its resort 2026 collection last spring at a fashion show staged on the shores of Lake Como, the brand has now released an updated, tightly edited lookbook—one clearly marked by Matthieu Blazy’s very visible touch. It is a far cry from the post–Virginie Viard studio work: no more dorky-looking dresses that dominated the brand over the past few years. What emerges instead is a vision of a truly contemporary woman wearing Chanel.

Relaxed styles, conceived from morning to evening, revolve around the eternal little black jacket, worn either with a matching tweed mini-skirt or with flared jeans – naturally, with flats. Although the look is instantly familiar, the jacket’s lines feel sharper and cooler. A creased velvet slip dress, finished with a camellia brooch, appears easy and chic when paired with mid-heeled two-toned pumps. The super-soft cardigan-jacket in the creamiest shade of ecru? It recalls the best of Karl Lagerfeld’s finest collections, like the spring 1999 couture line-up where he did similar fitted styles with plunging necklines.

This lookbook, arriving under Blazy’s creative direction, reads as a smooth foretaste of his debut runway collection, soon to hit stores. The pajama shirt hints at the forthcoming Charvet collaboration, while the boxy grey suit feels like a simpler, more day-appropriate version of the show’s opening look. It is refreshing to see Matthieu Blazy’s vision of the Chanel woman outside the context of runway spectacle – just highly-aspirational ideas for how to wear the brand in 2026.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Mumbo-Jumbo. Balenciaga Pre-Fall 2026

January 15, 2026 | Design & Culture by Ed

The more I live, the more I understand that compromise isn’t a good thing. And that becomes evident in Pierpaolo Piccioli’s second attempt at Balenciaga. You might remember that I wasn’t satisfied with what I saw at his debut. Yet I thought, with sincere hope, that first tries are difficult and that the next season would be better. And here we are with the brand’s co-ed pre-fall 2026 lookbook: a collection that once again feels like a chaotic mash-up of Demna, Nicolas Ghesquière, and – oh lord – Alexander Wang’s era at the house. The merchandise floor was far too involved in designing this collection, seemingly trying to please everyone at Kering. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

ED’s SELECTION:

Balenciaga Le City Medium Textured-leather Tote

Balenciaga Belted Plush Coat

Balenciaga Avenue Palazzo Crystal-embellished Bow-detailed Satin Sandals

Balenciaga Cat-eye Printed Acetate Sunglasses

Balenciaga Cape-effect Floral-print Plissé-crepe Gown

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Super Nature. Paolo Carzana SS26

December 23, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

And just like that, this is my last review of 2025 – one that sat on the shelf a moment too long. But perhaps the untamed beauty, intimacy of scale, and contemplative energy of this London presentation make it a perfectly fitting year-end conclusion.

Paolo Carzana is a wizard: what he does with plant dyes and fabric is beyond mortal comprehension. Practice makes perfect, and years of mastering his craft have led the designer to his most accomplished collection yet. Inspired by Mother Earth and her super-nature – supernatural colours that defy belief, and the textures of plants and worlds in the making – Carzana sent ethereal, air- and earth-born messengers down the Reading Room of the British Library for his spring-summer 2026 fashion show.

Fragile, fragmentary garments in a myriad of tones – from aquatic to earthy, from translucent to sun-burnt – drape the body like air or liquid, leaving behind an ephemeral, haute-poetic impression impossible to counterfeit. The alchemy of Carzana’s looks was completed by Nasir Mazhar, whose equally transfixing headwear heightened their spell. Asymmetrical fabric drapes – abstract, shell-like bonnets and paper scrolls evoking feathers – deepened the organic potency of the collection.

The London-based designer moves slowly, refusing to abide by the fashion industry’s relentless logic of more, more, more. Let 2026 be the year we rethink old ways of operating – and make space for a new generation of designers to truly capture hearts, just like Galliano and Gigli did back in the day.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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New Look. Dior Pre-Fall 2026

December 21, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson’s new look for Dior continues to intrigue – and puzzle. Women’s pre-fall 2026 is already his fourth collection, which sounds quite absurd given that the first Dior pieces designed by Anderson will only start hitting stores in January at the earliest. But this is how the industry works. We’ve seen his neo-preppy menswear debut over the summer, followed by pre-fall just over a week ago. His women’s debut during the last Paris Fashion Week still leaves me on the fence, even though certain details are gradually growing on me. The lookbook released this week seems to reveal more about how Anderson envisions the Dior woman, stripped of runway spectacle and contrived styling. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
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Cleanse. Valentino Pre-Fall 2026

December 13, 2025 | Design & Culture by Ed

Remember Alessandro Michele’s debut collection for Gucci – the one created in less than a month? Despite its sumptuous, vintage-inflected richness, it was ultimately minimalist, in much the same way a Pre-Raphaelite painting can be. Now creative director of Valentino for nearly two years, Michele appears to be deliberately moving toward a “less is more” mode, however paradoxical that may sound given his well-known affection for dramatic grandeur.

His poetic spring-summer 2026 collection offered the first indication of this reductionist—yet still deeply romantic – direction, and pre-fall 2026 continues that trajectory. A lilac polka-dot tunic layered over a sheer lace slip, a regal grey cape-coat fastened with a butterfly brooch, and a Valentino-red evening dress stripped of all excess save for a single, incisive drape exemplify this new restraint.

Michele has described this process as a gradual “cleansing” of his relationship with the house, an attempt to find equilibrium between excess and austerity. He has acknowledged that his approach to Valentino’s legacy is deeply personal and, for some, even unsettling, given the unmistakable strength of his hand. Yet he sees the pre-fall lookbook as a moment of convergence between himself and the brand – a space in which he feels markedly more at ease. In his words, it is irreverent and uncomfortable in precisely the right measure, suggesting that he has “disrespected” the house just enough to finally allow it to breathe. Such self-reflection (and self-criticism) is rare among contemporary fashion designers, and Michele’s candour deserves recognition.

The collection’s line-up of Bambi-printed jackets, boudoir-inspired lace separates, and blunt denim miniskirts is sharpened further by his first reinterpretation of Valentino’s “Rockstud” – arguably one of the most divisive shoes in modern fashion. In Michele’s hands, it becomes metal-tipped, ankle-strapped, shaper, and balanced on a pin-thin heel. I remain undecided about the result, but Michele’s work has always demanded time to fully resonate.