Choices. Prada Resort 2020

Retro florals, smart layering, scarves bejewelled with XXL sequins, baroque pearl earrings, chunky hand-knit tennis vests, clashed prints. Carefree eclecticism that isn’t overly extravagant, but daringly fantastic for everyday. It seemed that Miuccia Prada resorted to simpler, easier codes of fashion, leaving the darkness of last season behind. But in a way, this was Prada’s defiance in the time of difficulties. The collection, staged in New York (just like last year), was pure joy, whether we’re speaking of a blue peasant shirt-dress with naive flower embroideries worn by Freja Beha or adorable, knitted striped beanies and socks in bold colours, paired with the most ‘unmatching’ looks. There were also looks that will comfort the safer Prada customers, like light, loosely tailored blazers and classic coats. For me, what stood out in this collection, was the number of possibilities, suited for many different personalities. While the last few collections from Prada had those two or three key looks that ruled the runway, and had a tendency to be polarised between super feminine and super dark, here the designer really emphasised that sort of off-the-fashion-show reality. Take what you love, mix it the way you feel like.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Tuinch

Every so often a label appears out of nowhere that piques my interest. This happened with Tuinch, a brand I’ve discovered while browsing Moda Operandi’s trunkshows last season. I fell in love with it at the first sight – and you will, too. Founder Veronique Vermussche is a passionate knitter, spending much of her free time creating elaborate sweaters and other garments. She combines this passion with her other ones: fashion and travel. The story of Tuinch started quite by coincidence. Traveling home from a vacation in the Himalayas, Veronique’s flight got delayed and she found warmth and comfort wrapping herself in a cashmere scarf bought from a local artisan. This way Veronique fell in love with cashmere, the beloved material that feels likes silk, but warms like lamb wool. The idea grew to develop a cashmere-only knitwear line. Back home she started working on her first collection, autumn-winter 2016, and travelled back extensively to the Himalayas to understand all aspects of the Asian cashmere tradition and to source the finest wool and discover the best artisans. Tuinch’s collections combine an artistic vision with elegant silhouettes. They are truly innovative by revisiting cashmere in not so classic designs we often see in stores and from other brands. The Antwerp-based label is about to release two new capsule collections for autumn-winter season. One is more bold and playful, with an energetic colour palette and knitted, three-dimensional bees (!) stuck on the sleeves. The other capsule is equally artisan, but more suited for, let’s say, beautiful mountain trips or escapes to the country. Those earthy shades used in oversized cardigans, ponchos and turtlenecks look too good. Not speaking of all the timeless, tartan plaids… I tell you, keep Tuinch on your radar when colder days come. Here are the knits that will serve for years!

Discover the brand here.

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

True To Azzedine. Alaïa AW19

Thanks god the maison of Alaïa has no plans to find an outside designer or change anything about the brand. The spirit of Azzedine Alaïa is in every single piece from the autumn-winter 2019 lookbook. Like the previous season, the offering encompasses three ranges: a collection of new pieces that feel close to the master’s vision and aesthetic, the Édition archive capsule (this season it’s all about the butterfly print from autumn-winter 1991 collection), and Éditions Limitées, which is positioned as demi-couture and available only by appointment. Karim Sadli is behind the camera, while the styling is Joe McKenna’s job (two individuals, who worked with Azzedine on his collections’ image). From impeccable tailoring to gorgeous, gorgeus eveningwear, the collection is consistent and completely true to the founder’s vocabulary. Those who know what’s an Alaïa dress like will definitely stay with the brand – forever.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.