Chemena Kamali‘s Chloé has been vintage-inspired and infused with nostalgia since her debut collection, but it seems the designer is letting some more frivolity to her work. The Chloé girl is ultimately a fun girl: striding the streets of Paris in clogs (a reference to Phoebe Philo’s tenure at the brand), swirling and dancing in flou silks and floating dresses, looking like a nonchalant, mysterious character straight out of a Guy Bourdin photograph. Immersing herself in early ’80s movies, like Brian de Palma’s thriller “Dressed to Kill” and Bette Gordon’s “Variety”, Kamali isn’t exactly interested in the (very exhausted) notion of power-dressing, but rather blending the era’s seemingly-naïve femininity with its by-gone, chic attitude. Bold and quirky shades of cobalt and aquamarine go in pair with sensual lace trims and the irresistibly joyful flamingo motif. Oui, oui, oui.
Ending the spring-summer 2026 menswear coverage on a high note: my top favorite (next to Prada) collection of the season coming from Aubero. Why I’m ranking it this high? It’s because it truly resonates with me, wardrobe-wise. The emerging American brand, lead by California-native Julian Louie, and its latest collection are beautifully autobiographical – yet somehow feel like home to an outsider who’s just getting to know Aubero. There’s a highly-appealing, lived-in quality to those over-sized flannel shirts, tailored “cargo” pants, and durable trench coats with delightful signs of patina. And there’s also something irresistibly sensual about the sleeveless, wrinkled-taffeta top-dress with confident open-back. Louie’s work is both nostalgic and forward-looking; his approach to material – “material festish” as he calls it, encapsulated in frayed antique textiles or scraps from past collections under mesh in one-of-a-kind coats or trousers – feels new, not Bode-ish as in case of many other new brands coming from the U.S.. Much of this collection relies on Louie’s mental souvenirs. The skirtlike wraps are a nod to the surfers he would see in Santa Cruz changing by their trucks, a clutched towel on their waists as they slipped out of wetsuits. I’m especially in awe of the all-white look consisting of a voluminous shirt and shorts with shiny finish topped over the lightweight pants. Worn with flip-flops, this look is both seductive and absolutely cool. Looking forward to more of Louie’s work.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki. Don’t forget to follow Design & Culture by Ed on Instagram!
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Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh-Tran – who has given birth since the Lemaire show in January – wanted to deliver a collection that felt “awakened”. It certainly was awakened in terms of sensuality. The Lemaire man and woman are sheding cocooning layers and confidently reveal some flesh, a lot more leg. Think a super-chic crinkled leather, knee-length skirt worn with a blazer and a pair of mesh sock-sandal heels, or else silky culottes that gave baggy drawers a sensual spin. One look was especially unexpected: a beautiful lace dress in ochre, worn with an oversized trench coat and chestnut pumps. You don’t see lace frequently on the Lemaire runway, and it felt so right.
Marc Jacobs showed his latest collection on Monday, it’s Thursday, and I’m still on a high!!! A fashion high! And I don’t want it to end.
The king of New York fashion is one of the last designers who knows how spark true euphoria with his runway work. And also one of the last fashion creators who comprehend, cherish, and nurture what Walter Benjamin once called aura.
It’s the magnetic, almost transcendent presence certain artworks possess. Originality, authenticity, and the sense of time and place woven into an object: this is a Marc Jacobs garment, through and through, traditionally presented at a light-speed pace at The New York Public Library. In an age of fast fashion and mass production, aura is what sets apart the truly iconic from the easily replaceable. It’s that feeling when a piece doesn’t just dress the body – it tells a story. Aura is like a drug you can’t deny. READ MY FULL REVIEW HERE.
Introducing the Magda Butrym pre-spring 2026 look-book: an ode to revived, lady-like femininity documented in the romantic courtyards and gritty streets of Warsaw’s most elusive quarter.
The look-book is an emotionally charged exploration of Warsaw’s lesser known, yet enigmatically alluring neighborhood: the Praga-North quarter. Defined and characterized by historic pre-war townhouses, secret courtyards adorned with sacred shrines and untamed blooms, and offbeat bazaars favored by locals, the district exudes a mysterious atmosphere that resonates with the sentimental and romantic notions of Slavic Heritage – one of the brand’s most distinctive signatures.
Photographed by Robin Galiegue and styled by Jacob K, the new season look-book expresses Magda Butrym’s deep affection for the ritual of dressing up and the innate, instinctual chic possessed by women of a bygone era. The nonchalance – and undeniable authenticity – of bouffant-haired ladies and sensational dames comes to life in ultra-feminine slip layered beneath robust fur coats; delicate, draped tops paired with lace-trimmed skirts; and bold floral prints clashed against unexpected hues. These codes of elegance draw from Butrym’s vivid childhood memories of the impeccably dressed women she loved observing—and felt inspired by. As she recalls, they didn’t dress up only for special occasions but made an effort with their style on daily basis – and that’s exactly what made such a long-lasting impression on her.
The pre-spring 2026 collection channels the spirit from real glamour, reimagined for the modern age – no longer just an ornament, but a powerful, confidence-boosting armor.
All dressed up and brimming with attitude, the look-book’s nearly cinematic heroines lounge on upholstered deck chairs, stride through the lively streets of Praga-North, and revel in the hidden, picturesque corners of the rough-around-the-edges quarter. The narrow silhouettes – accentuated by shoulder-padded, hourglass-shaped pony-hair jackets and knee-length skirts – are offset by the utilitarian energy of heavy-duty leather bombers and a slouchy rose-red tracksuit. Hip-padded mini dresses boldly reveal flesh, while shaggy boleros and voluminous masculine coats offer a sense of protection. A floor-sweeping crimson dress with a dramatic back slit is finished with a vintage-inspired flower necktie, its petals subtly shredded. Beneath the collection’s rich textures, artisanal details, and lady-like decorum lies a raw, risqué energy- sexual, liberated, and unapologetically bold.
The look-book thrives on an unexpected, magnetic tension: rose gardens blooming amid brutalist surroundings, sacred icons of Saint Mary tucked away in shadowy alleys. It reflects the designer’s vision of ambiguous femininity – glamorous and “perfected” at times, yet coarse and grunge-tinged at others. That sensual duality is especially vivid in this season’s leg-centric silhouettes: curved wedges and semi-sheer, tights-like trousers evoke a strong, sculptural attitude, inspired by one of Sarah Lucas’ tapering artworks made from stockings stretched over wire and anchored by concrete high heels. The season’s eveningwear – structured in body-morphing forms and elevated through exaggerated silhouettes- also nods to the British artist’s crude, unfiltered approach to the female body. Lucas’ provocative vision of womanhood fascinates Butrym – and inspires in rethinking contemporary femininity.
Design & Culture by Ed 