Who doesn’t like red, garden roses? Georgia May Jagger in Miu Miu autumn-winter 2018, taken from MIU MIU: OTHER CONVERSATIONS by Call This Number.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
The Look – Miu Miu AW18
Woman
The Look – Lemaire AW18
Autumn is in the air, no? The days of full moon. Leaves are gradually becoming yellow. Watching Nouvelle Vague films in the evenings. Forgetting about shorts and t-shirts. This Lemaire autumn-winter 2018 coat and layered shirting make me drool.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
That Tiny Bag: Medea
Every so often a label appears out of nowhere that piques my interest. Well, maybe not that out of nowhere. I’ve discovered Medea the moment Petra Collins and Dev Hynes took it to the streets. And what is it precisely? That tiny, little bag. “We always were into bags and would spend money on those instead of clothes, so we thought, why not make a very fine leather bag that is shaped like a shopping bag?”, recall Giulia and Camilla Venturini for Vogue. The twin sisters have the bags crafted from matte calfskin leather in Verona, Italy. The Prima has just launched at Dover Street Market, Opening Ceremony and Selfridges, while the collection is expanding. For now, the bags come in eight colors and four sizes, ranging from micro (big enough for your phone) to an XXL version. The designers are also about to release a collection this September, made in collaboration with an artist. Expect the unexpected from this Milan-based label.
Olympics. Saks Potts SS19
For their spring-summer 2018, Barbara Potts and Catherine Saks clearly wanted to stir away from what Saks Potts is mostly known for: the best-selling faux fur jackets. And they tried hard to surprise. In the beginning, a dance troupe performed in the middle of the stadium, where the collection was presented; then, a model came out, wearing a dramatic white dress in fur. And then, the show really began. The collection was meant to be a nod to the Olympics and everything connected to sport. But the result could have been much better. The designers definitely needed to concentrate more on editing the looks, as in the overall the collection felt simply… messy. Holographic, Lycra ensembles. Duvet jackets with mountain prints. Logomania tights. Too much going on in here. Also, I couldn’t help but note all the elements that seemed to be knocked-off from Area NYC. Their signatures: the big sunglasses, the over-the-top styling, the early 90s glamour. All present at Saks Potts, executed in a very similar way. The best (and certainly the most original) part of the collection was the fur. That lilac coat with a fluffy collar and equally fluffy cuffs is a highlight, just like the ombre teddy bear piece.
Another week, another fashion week. Some Copenhagen designers, like Cecilie Bahnsen, have a clear signature and keep to it. Other, like Ganni, recycle trends. And the other others, like Saks Potts, are established for one thing, but seem to struggle to evolve. Still, the Danish designers are worth watching.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
For The Walkers. Ganni SS19
Indisputably, Ganni made Copenhagen fashion week a thing. Today, Danish designers and brands are nearly as important as the names we know from the four capitals – New York, London, Milan and Paris. Just see how many people you follow on Instagram went to Copenhagen this week! There’s even the Danish it-girls clique, that has a distinct, eclectic look. I mean the most unprecedented (and sometimes simply ridiculous) combinations of floral tea-dress, plastic bags, hair scrunchies and kitschy, vintage mules.
But back to the topic. Ganni’s spring-summer 2019 was the show that every ‘influencer’ went to. This clothing label, founded by wife-and-husband duo Ditte and Nicolaj Reffstrup, brings an alternative version of Scandinavian style – a ‘no no’ to cold minimalism. Ditte, who is the creative director, likes florals, slip dresses, ruffles and big knits, and tends to balance all those with heavy, off-duty accessories. Shortly, Ganni follows every trend alert, does good styling tricks and keeps it all quite affortable (the price point is slightly below Acne Studios). That’s why I’m on fence with the label’s phenomenon – it’s not as much fashion, as a thoroughly considered image of the so-called ‘Ganni girl’. Spring-summer 2019 wasn’t different in that aspect. Inspired by camping and travelling by foot in overall, Ganni went for bucket hats, sporty outerwear (made in collaboration with 66 North), trekking boots, prairie dresses, dyed denim and camo backpacks. The venue, done under the direction of Ana Kras (you might know her as @teget on Instagram), as well suggested something connected to travelling: cars and boats covered with nylon canvas, and the huge space filled with transport containers. It all worked, and you surely will want to pull off every second look next summer. But somehow, I can’t help, but think of Ganni as of a very Instagrammable and undemanding label.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
