Traveller. Loewe SS18

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Doing a travel-themed collection is risky, because the designer might easily slip down the pitfall of clichés. But such terms like ‘oriental’, ‘cowboy’ or ‘tribal’ don’t match Jonathan Anderson‘s sophisticated line-up for Loewe. “I want something that people will want to go and touch,” he told the press after the show. Actually, you really want to touch these clothes. The richness of textures is just insane. And it’s even more absorbing, when you realise that each piece has its story, an entire cultural identity behind it. Like a de luxe globe-trotter, the Loewe woman has African and South American traditional handicraft all over her wardrobe; the woven pieces were made according to traditional Peruvian techniques, while fringed sarong skirt seemed to come straight from Argentina. She’s been to Morocco, too, from where the season’s must-have elf-toed sneakers origin – Anderson based the idea on woven sandals coming from that country. Again, another designer would carelessly go a step further and touch the soft topic of cultural appropriation. Anderson plays fair, he finds inspiration and does it with great respect.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Hope. Rick Owens SS18

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Rick Owens‘s wife – the magical Michele Lamy – was laughing wildly in the show’s soundtrack. The fountains of Palais de Tokyo’s yard blasted, sparkling water on the guests (who were given black plastic rain coats). The models wore massive, cocoon-like garments (Comme Des Garçons mood) and huge fanny packs. As far as Owens is concerned with the climate changes, and has moved that global issue in his previous collections, there was a disturbing impression: those were the climate refugees in a dystopian world, where nature takes a revenge. But is the story behind the spring-summer 2018 collection so drastic? As it appeared, not entirely. “It’s a show about hope“, the designer said. The sculptural pieces were more like an armour of rejection to our world’s threats, while layered up dresses and fluid-in-motion tops spoke about human mobility. As equally complex as Rei Kawakubo’s Comme Des Garçons, Rick’s collections are always food for thought. 

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Poetry of Everyday. Lemaire SS18

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Although poets and writers rarely resort to high fashion, Lemaire‘ spring-summer 2018 is the way I imagine a creative soul to dress on the daily. Equally melancholic as their imaginary (or not) muse, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran went against the flow and showed a rather elegant, toned collection comparing to other designers this season. But that doesn’t make Lemaire’s offering less charming. Quite opposite – it’s sophisticated and wearable at the same time, oddly seductive and refined. Satin apron dresses, shirts in watercolour print, brown masculine blazers and interestingly fitted tuxedo looks in shades of khaki, navy and dark purple. It’s not for every person that feels comfortable in minimalism, though. You’ve got to be the ‘character’ to really enjoy those not-just-chic pieces. Lemaire’s prime interest is in the clothes, not the entire frame around it. Certainly, the creative duo behind the label pulled it off well, with no big, common for Paris, fuss. 

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Optimistic. Dries Van Noten SS18

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Dries Van Noten is the designer that had a lot of reasons to celebrate lately: from his very successful 100th collection to ‘Dries’, a documentary that in-depth looks at his work, In other words, the world’s eyes were completely on him. But for spring-summer 2018, Van Noten visibly decided to take a break and lean on his well-known classics. Starting with nude shades and ending on lilac, the collection was about an interesting colour gradation; typically Dries prints in floral motif were used for voluminous shirts, skirts and coats. One of the biggest surprises was the ‘flou’ sensed in the season’s flowing eveningwear. Romantic and easy. Not forgetting to mention the irresistibly good black suit topped with an embellished mesh. Back to basics, for a while, is a very worthwhile thing to do. And going optymistic, as well. “We always say that fashion is a reflection of our times,” said the Belgian designer after his sprin-summer 2018 show. “Well, maybe that’s enough of that! Let’s do something optimistic, enjoy things—and really go for it!”

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Grandiose. Saint Laurent SS18

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The passing of Pierre Bérge, Yves Saint Laurent’s partner in private and business life, wasn’t meant to be reflected as a mourning in Anthony Vaccarello‘s third collection for Saint Laurent. Rather, the spring-summer 2018 collection was a celebration of the ‘l’amour fou’, the crazy love that the two shared. And that was a show that matches one word: grandiose!

From what should I start? The venue was an open-air platform situated in the most precious viewpoint in the French capital – yes, the twinkling Eiffel Tower was the runway’s backdrop! THAT’S PARIS, and Vaccarello loves to highlight that Saint Laurent is the most Parisian label you can think of, in terms of style and its faces (for Yves that was Catherine Deneuve; for Anthony it’s Charlotte Gainsbourg). Second, the collection with an impression that was just as strong as of the venue. It was divided in three parts, the women’s ready-to-wear, menswear and ‘modern-day’ couture. The first part was very lace-y, very bohème and Courtney Love / Lenny Kravitz-cool. In other words, that’s what you see a Parisienne wear on the streets, no bra, just pure confidence. Menswear was simple and chic. However, the couture-ish part was my favourite. What a contemporary ode to Yves and his memorable appreciation for the ‘custom-made’. Puff skirts and very, very mini-dresses of huge volumes (one of them was so short that the model’s panties were visible – they were elegantly embellished with a rhinestone Eiffel Tower). Use of feathers, that referred to YSL’s autumn-winter 1987 and his costumes for Zizi Jeanmarie, was killer. Can’t get enough of all these boas, feather-y shoulders and thigh-high boots covered in plumage. That was so over-the-top. A fashion moment I anticipated so much, but thought will not happen in this decade. With his best collection up-to-date, Vaccarello really proves that Saint Laurent is the perfect place for him. Bravo.

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Collages by Edward Kanarecki.