After last season’s tribute to showgirl’s bling-bling, Maisom Martin Margiela went a Romeo and Julia. Like in Shakespeare’s drama, the clothes of Julia looked always romantic and fragile, while Romeo had a typical masculine style. So in this Margiela love story, we have a clash between the the girl and the boy- lace dresses worn over the men’s suite, or other way round. The colours were based on beige and bordeaux, mixed with checks and floral embroideries… It’s hard to tell if I like it or not- it’s an interesting collection, but it doesn’t highlight this season.
Women
Beige. Sonia Rykiel AW14
Geraldo da Conceicao is the new designer of Sonia Rykiel already for three seasons including AW14… and I am missing real Sonia. I mean, Geraldo, (never heard of him, but he designed for few houses, making his name unknown) isn’t creating bad collections. But they are so shapeless. Kind of pretty, but without WOW like it was with Sonia. The AW14 was all about beige (so MaxMara) furs and Moi print. There was also an interesting colour splash at the end… although, I can’t say it’s shocking. Sonia Rykiel is a house with history, known for fun and Parisienne chic. And it can’t get “minimalistic” like everything. I don’t feel the spark.
Deja Vu. Dior AW14
O-oh. I understand Raf’s aesthetic is so minimalistic, feminine and innovative… but this starts to get boring what he does at Dior. And most of all, what he done at AW14. This is his biggest fail since he came to this Parisian maison. It’s too new new look, too minimalistic and too passe. Seriously, see the first Raf Simons collection for the house (SS13) and now see this. Firsly, these coloured bags and scarves looked nice on masculine suits and those pretty to death dresses at the start of new legacy… But now we are sinking in the monotony of Raf Simons straight rules. Nothing caught my eyes here- the colours looked bad, the tied strings on dresses looked bad, the green column gown was a deja vu from Jil Sander past, and the last dresses with crystals are copies of the last Haute Couture for SS14… Does Raf thinks he is so legendary to create an “account” collection? I say “no”. And we certainly need something new to come.
Fresh. Julien David AW14
Julien David, the french designer who designs clothes Made In Japan, did an outstanding job for AW14- his recent and really fresh collection is a mix of Japanese perfection of chaos and Parisian tres chic style. Caps worn with tri-coloured dress made out of sequins and other bling-bling embroideries… Black coats styled with sandals on socks and geometrical knitted dress… Glitter clutches… It pretty much feels innovative and “every girl wants now” desire… Love Julien and his work!
Jazzy. Lanvin AW14
That was one of the best Lanvin collection by Alber Elbaz for a long time. It was so jazzy, so loose and feminine… No more COOL or DREAM logos around- just pure Lanvin. First, let’s start from the hats- they are fantastic. A bit tribal, but at the same time really glamour with all these feathers. Then, the tweed dresses and jackets all in black. Maybe there wasn’t as much colour as usually at Lanvin, but it felt pretty fine with the toned blue and red. Loved the silhouettes that look flattering on models (and on Edie Campbell!) and the bags that seem to be a little more updated… Thankfully, Alber escaped from his coma, and again creates collections that may be even approved (if she was alive) by Jeanne Lanvin. But still, one mystery is not explained- what did Rihanna do on front row? Was she the unexpected guest…?
Design & Culture by Ed 