70’s Twist. Jonathan Saunders AW15

February 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Twisted 70’s. Jonathan Saunders falls into his routine, bringing nearly same prints each winter. Turtlenecks, A-skirts, slightly flared trousers – it all seems to be an old topic. Why do some designers always go into “now I am all about 60’s, but next season I am all about 70’s”? Yes, I understand those were important periods for fashion, but come on – they are constantly repeating. In reality, this collection by Saunders reminds me of Miu Miu Resort 2015 and many other 70’s inspired presentations. Even if we have all those fun and bold prints – Jonathan makes me yawn.

Plastic is Fantastic. Mary Katrantzou AW15

February 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s the first good collection Mary Katrantzou presented for a loooong time. And the Greek designers proves, that plastic is fantastic, if you know how to use it. This might surprise you, but this entire collection has been made out of plastic. PLASTIC. Well, of course she used a bit of wool and silk there and there, but… the spongy clutches, details and pink runway are giving us a note, that the sponges that we use in our kitchens are trendy. Coming back to Mary – the designer totally leaves digital prints behind, which were her signature, and gives us feminine, flawless silhouettes. The bold colours, comfortable volumes and affordable-looking skirts plan to be best-selling this season. Personally, I like this new face of Mary Katrantzou.

Boudicca’s Tribe. Gareth Pugh AW15

February 23, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Boudicca. England. Brave women. Gareth Pugh celebrates 10 years of his label, and this moment is seriously a highlight. In his AW15, the mad prince of British fashion brings fetish leather, sexy volumes and dark queen silhouettes, which all suggest one thing – the avant-garde British fashion is alive. Thankfully, Gareth Pugh continues Alexander McQueen’s legacy of fashion which got balls. For this specific show, the models had their faces and torso painted with red while the hair was cut in a boyish, home-like way. Fur, plastic, leather, wool were presented in a pretty sharp way, belted and covered with chains. I love this collection not only because its avant-garde and ultra-British, but because it’s not so retail-friendly… and it sums up first 10 years of Gareth’s fashion career.

Louise Bourgeois. Simone Rocha AW15

February 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The layers of Simone Rocha’s dresses overlapped themselves like Louise Bourgeois sculptures. “I just absolutely love her work and the fact that it’s so personal. Also a lot of it is very textile based, but I love all of her materials – marble, wood, glass, and the contrast of it. Even though it was personal to her a lot of people relate to it,” Rocha noted backstage. The tapestry-like textiles were combined with sheer mesh while hair-like fur with florals. “I read recently that when she (Louise) was asked to go and have her photo taken she said she was so nervous she would rather hide behind her work so she just brought this huge phallus with her, which I think is a great idea,” Rocha said. “I’d much rather be behind a rail of clothes right now!”

Artisanal Basics. Faustine Steinmetz AW15

February 22, 2015February 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Faustine Steinmetz, the girl of the moment from London, took her techniques to the next level in her quest to make everyday clothing special and and artisan. Jeans came hand-felted and brushed with orange and white details to outline the stitching in a trompe l’oeil effect, or painted in silicone with thick, whipped strokes that were echoed in jewellery and hair pieces by Lara Jensen. For AW15, the young designer prove, that even the basics of our wardrobe can be revisited – I wish to touch one of these trousers. They seem to be out of this world. Until now, Steinmetz has been hand-weaving all her fabrics, but a sponsorship this season from Cotton USA meant that she was able to buy sustainable, materials. But she still gave them her very special and specific treatment: “It’s a bit like a painting,” she noted of the adding of felt and paint to her denim canvas and the way she had digitally printed blurry Photoshop lines onto jeans not so typical. “This was a reflection on if I were to buy fabric, like other people do – and their life is much easier, I’m sure – where would I want to take it, and why would I do that?“

Photography Philip Trengove