Über 80’s. JW Anderson AW15

February 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Two years ago, I would never thought that Jonathan Anderson, the minimal kid from the block, will go 80’s. This period has it’s echo in previous collections, but never so much as in AW15. Corduroy trousers, velvet tops, über-80’s prints, and eccentric earring – it all makes me think about those ladies which sit and gossip about everyone at the market. The shoes seem to be terrific, too – their exggerated buckles and aim to “shorten” the legs are so “un-fashionable”. This collection in overall is not a fashionable one. J.W. Anderson simply showed an ironic, slightly satiric point of view on people, which try to look their best and at the same time look super cheesy. Additionally, the cheesy way of dressing appeared in the 80’s – so now everything is clear.

But is cheesy the new chic? J.W. Anderson possibly imposes an old new movement in fashion. This “thing” is surely going to be a hot topic for fashion journalists.

Diana Vreeland. Marc Jacobs AW15

February 20, 2015February 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

“The eye has to travel” is a quote that always felt close to me. Who said it? Diana Vreeland, the queen of fashion from the 20th century. Fortunately, this quote is also important to Marc Jacobs – his AW15 collection definitely proves it. With a stormy temper, the models walked down the gloomy runway wearing Victorian gowns, Night Porter inspired sheer dresses, pilgrim shoes, art nouveau prints on flared skirts – you’ve got a feeling that you’re filtering a gorgeous Vogue edition which is guest edited by Marc. And Katie Grand, of course!

“She was a genius,” Jacobs said of the legendary Vogue editor, Diana, backstage. “She got the whole fashion thing: being decisive, being so excitable, and then being as passionate and dismissive about the very same thing the next day.” Jacobs read her Memos book while he was working on the Fall collection; the surprise is that he hasn’t made a muse of Vreeland before. “I felt like that’s what fashion is,” he continued, “that complete addiction, obsession, that I’ve-got-to-have-it need until I basically wouldn’t be caught dead in it.” The darkness changed into monochrome and bold red; the textiles were opulent and rich. As it’s the last show of New York Fashion Week, Marc Jacobs gave us a delicious dessert, leaving the best for the end.

Tribal Attack. Proenza Schouler AW15

February 20, 2015February 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

I think Proenza Schouler discovered TOO many fields for AW15. Fish net tights. Tribal embroidery (feathers, some kind of jungle decoration which came out of nowhere) . Flesh-exposure (Helmut Lang’s calling!). It wouldn’t be a Proenza Schouler collection without the complex textile processes that make their pieces so special and so synthetic. Backstage, they called it their most technical collection yet – as they described sections of “chiffon needle-punched over over and again to create a stiffened fabric used on the tailoring and the tweed that was made out of strips of fabrics, that were especially woven for the purpose”. Even without knowing the ins and outs of all the fabrications, it was obvious that what pulsed through was pure innovation. But innovation doesn’t always mean a good collection. I prefer when the collection has a fluent line, even if it’s is called abstract, sophisticated or mindful. In this collection, Jack and Lazaro lost this fluency which they always mastered in previous collections. Plus, I can’t forgive the fish-net tights. But, look! They debuted with menswear! There is only one look for men, but. Although, I don’t feel this specific collection, I am truly interested where Proenza Schouler is heading in the future,

Effortless Luxury. Michael Kors AW15

February 19, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Michael Kors knows that simple luxury is the best. This fall, he didn’t surprise us (when did he?), but this doesn’t mean that the collection was a bore – it had a lot of interesting features I personally thought were “cool” – definitely, the fox fur worn by Natasha Poly above. Ground-breaking. Then, the vintage-like doctor bags. The voluminous midi skirts made out of wool (warm classic). More? Well, the collection itself is built of wearable, normKORS basics. The collection might be SO GOOD right now, but next year we are going to forget whether this combination of clothing and styling was presented last year or two years ago. This is a very neutral look at fashion, Michael.

Rebellious Girls. MBMJ AW15

February 19, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Since Katie Hillier and Luella Burtley are present at MBMJ, the label caught some fresh air. The rebellious Marc by Marc Jacobs is a bold, provocative character, she’s a riot and she is full of power. MBMJ brought bold prints on mini-skirts, punk berets, dyed denim and heavy-duty accessories. Also, there was something of a scout girl. Bandanas tied around the necks and strict, slightly modified, camo print dominated the show. Or else they had a mini-skirts that suggested the fashion radicalism of Vivienne Westwood in the early ’80s. Good one, MBMJ.