Y / Project

Glenn Martens took the word ‘chic’ and completely dissected it in his spring-summer 2019 line-up for Y/Project. The term can be understood (or rather misunderstood) in many ways. One of the most common is the ‘Parisian chic’ that became a catchy phrase for high street brands to sell stuff, and a magical spell for influencers (that very likely end up with writing a book on style). But Martens abandoned that sort of path and proposed a totally different sort of chic. It’s lady-like and eccentric, but smoothly relates to his love for silhouette distortion and streetwear. So, we had everything: from denim panties and the over-sized, tie-dyed denim ensemble to a very couture-ish tailored pinstripe dress and emerald-green gown styled with a glamorous feather-like boa. Martens’ chic isn’t neither casual-to-the-bone or conservative. It plays with those two stereotypical notions, shaping something a bit hilarious and totally relevant. Both, a young and elderly person will look equally good in those attention-catching garments. Glenn agrees: chic isn’t one thing. And I think that’s really, really… chic.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

It’s complicated. With Y/Project, you have this certain feeling when you look at the label’s clothes. Take denim pants or a shirt. They do reminiscent pants and a shirt, but then… not exactly. This season, Glenn Martens surprised with a wrapping technique featuring nylon and lycra stretched atop any garment, which can be effortlessly taken off or put on at any moment. Depends on to what extent you want to sophisticate your outfit. It wouldn’t be Martens’ work if the collection didn’t mess with proportions: deliberately too much of fabric near the crotch, not enough near the torso. Those aren’t easy clothes – but who said they should be? Y/Project intrigues with colour combinations, as well. From wine burgundy and baby pink to soft lilac and rusty yellow, there’s not much in common, nothing really works together. And again – it somehow does! The women’s capsule is equally confusing, but appealing as well. Those denim high-rise shorts over pink tights made a stir in the social media yesterday. Glenn Martens is not a guy that desperately seeks controversy, but his clothes nearly always provoke. Love it. At least, not everyone considers menswear a shallow sport trend outlet.