Men’s – Partisans. Yohji Yamamoto AW20

At Yohji Yamamoto, looks were layered and imbued with rough, “unfinished” details. Officer coats with imperfect embellishments, military berets and caps, unmatched patterns unevenly patchworked, knits were dyed and hand-painted. But there was something absolutely romantic about these rebellious-looking guys. Swaths of beautiful, printed silk floating alongside a few silhouettes were pure poetry. The 76-year-old’s idea to develop these figures as “Partisans” sends the message that he remains a true nonconformist. “I used to explain my spirit as anti-trend, anti-fashion. I kept saying I’m an outsider. Now the vocabulary is not enough. And I’m angry about what’s going on in fashion, so I have become partisan.” It’s a word that people today assume is political. “Or dangerous,” Yamamoto added.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Luna & L’Altra in Rome

Why did I love my last trip to Rome so much? I accidentally, but very luckily, discovered Luna & L’Altra boutique, that was about to close in the couple of days – after 30 years of existence. The amazingly charismatic and inspiring owner, Biba Libera (photographed above), first introduced Japanese designers to Italy – think Yohji Yamamoto, Comme Des Garçons, Issey Miyake – and throughout the years gathered a brilliant collection of Maison Martin Margiela (even the super rare, artinasal pieces, like the gloves top or the tape bag). She even borrowed some of the pieces to Musee Galliera in Paris, which did the designer’s retrospective not a long time ago. Some of the items from her archives were available to buy. Meanwhile, she chatted with anyone who was as in awe with her and her store as me. It’s so sad to hear that places like this close due to the fashion industry’s pace… but as she said, she was ready for this step. And she’s here for a new adventure! Really hope to meet her soon.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Desires. Yohji Yamamoto SS19

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What a collection! I always have a soft spot for Yohji Yamamoto, but his spring-summer 2019 collection is exceptional. And, in a way, very sensual. “I wanted to explain that fashion became so boring.” Yes, Yohji, some who as well feel exhausted with those ‘must-have’ sneakers that are all over the industry can come to the same conclusion. “Essentially, I feel that ordinary people and fashionable people are all tired of fashion because there’s nothing kind of strong, cute, sexy.” Maybe I wouldn’t call his latest line-up ‘cute’, but the two other terms describe the collection precisely. From flowing, all-black looks, Yamamoto’s sensual style poetry progressed into more erotic fields. Some of the robe-coats were covered with depictions of women in various states of pleasure. The designer summed up them as “modern ukiyo-e,” a famous genre of Japanese art. Loose pants and tank-tops/man-dresses came in sultry leopard and flames prints as well. Yamamoto releases his wilder side this season, but not directly; there’s just a notion that can be grasped when you actually wear these garments.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

 

Men’s – Workwear. Yohji Yamamoto AW17

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Yohji Yamamoto wanted to recall that “basic aspect of the labor” – he referred to all the people in the background, who help him construct his exquisite garments. That’s a fact – real clothing can’t be made without human hands, you need to use your fingers to understand the texture; your body, to see how the piece looks on a living and breathing person. Having all that in mind, seeing Yamamoto’s menswear was a true experience. A man’s suit appeared in a number of different colours and fabrics, while elegant reversible coats, masculine vests and romantic capes were hand-painted with ‘working man’ slogans. There’s no fuss about Yohji’ collection – and that’s why I might adore them so much, always.

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