Not That Perfect

November 15, 2014November 15, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Cedric Charlier

The SS15 season is all about 70’s- so, how you might know, a theme full of colours, imperfections and prints. The designers truly thought of “raw” touches in their pieces- Cedric Charlier, the Paris-based designer, made the red & blue threads go out from the black fabric in his dresses; Miuccia Prada mixed vintage silk materials with linen, creating a chaotic “not so perfect” feeling. J.W. Anderson at Loewe and Yohji Yamamoto simply through the mish-mash embroideries and cottons on the model’s bodies. Although it’s not about clean lines, this kind of lightness feels pretty much appealing, isn’t it?

Ellery

Celine

Yohji Yamamoto

Loewe

Proenza Schouler

Prada

Marques Almeida

#TBT: Yohji Yamamoto’s 1998

November 6, 2014July 28, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Maggie Rizer sings to the moon for Yohji Yamamoto’s 1998 campaign, shot by Inez & Vinoodh.

The Best of AW14

September 1, 2014September 1, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

My number one this season is Haider Ackermann. His beautiful fall was dark, elusive and very Parisienne. Models wore masculine coats and trousers, slim maxi dresses, over-sized shirts and leather jackets. This collection is the quintessence of chic.

Celine had the cool non-chalance in it. Phoebe Philo brought us fur muffs, kimonos, over-sized tunics and sleek coats, making the collection extremely casual with these fabulous, patent leather clogs. As usually, it’s one of my favourites.

Tibi from New York had the best ponchos of the season! Styled with black mules, Amish hats and black midi skirt, the label had one of the most great looks in the whole season. And many other pieces are still having a spotlight…

Dries Van Noten was all about stripes, colour and florals. It had a lot of coolness in it- a midi skirt worn with a orange skirt was never so interesting and sophisticated!

Miuccia Prada as usually brought Prada the most outstanding pieces of the season. Shearling jackets, cricket v-neck sweaters, Bauhaus inspired heels, monkey fur dress, bags with chains… and many, many more.

I have a special place in my heart for that Acne collection. It’s fresh, Scandinavian vibe and tribal printed culottes are simply amazing. And of course the exaggerated hats! You want get a cold wearing one of them, that’s a sure thing!

Louis Vuitton has Nicolas Ghesquiere right now, and his debutant collection was simply it. 40’s & 60’s fashion come back with huge steps. And all these boots are a must-have, just like the Petit Malle clutches.

Yohji Yamamoto’s winter collection is the most unwearable and most fantastic of all. The cocoon coats with those hand painted manga illustration are not clothes any more, but art.

N.21 by Allesandro Dell Acqua was very Italian. It has three key pieces- a cozy, wool sweater, an embroidered, midi skirt and pointy polished flats. And nothing else.

The relaxed Marc Jacobs collection was my favourite from New York. It was all head in clouds, with these pastel colours, v-cuts, solemn and pale faces of models and Jessica Lange attitude.

These were my 10 favourite AW14 collections… and on the 4th, officially, the NYFW starts with SS15! Yay!

Men’s. Indie Rock. Yohji Yamamoto SS15

June 27, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

LOST written in french as PERDU was written on the backs of the models at Yohji Yamamoto’s new collection. The collection was one of the most commercial throughout the seasons: missing a bit the manga coats or gorgeous trousers I would enjoy wearing, we had pajama jacquards covered in a faded motif of old, stained-glass rosettes; faux bleach splotches stitched onto suiting; jailhouse-striped pants that appeared counterintuitively gentlemanly. The denim grouping was most interesting of all. Yohji said he was tired of seeing jeans that looked “out of fashion.” His solution: trompe l’oeil holes, roomy gaucho pants, and a dramatic denim cape. Not that I am disapointed with this collection, but feel it’s a little break for Yohji Yamamoto- and that we soon will see something good.

Men’s: Trend Report AW14

May 31, 2014December 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yohji Yamamoto

Boys, we are looking forward towards the new times of fashion! So arty, gloomy, grey and posh- the AW14 season is for all sorts of men. Here, look at the strong five trends that are going to rule in your fall wardrobe.

They were moody, not sombre, said Haider Ackermann about his new season clothes that were all about his Victorian poets, floor length coats swaying through the room and Tchaikovsky chart topper. The fresh mood of men fashion is about dandy gloom that is romantic and attractive. Comme des Garcons had this wet hair look that reminded of gothic ghosts and Philip Lim had some neo-Romantism in it. Do you get that?

Camel coat, camel jacket or a camel parka- whatever, Parisian men think of camel as men’s best-friend. It’s neutral, but looks perfect with sweatpants, leather over-sized pants or elegant trousers. I really want to steal Ami’s look, where the models wore camel with white Adidas and wool sweaters… maybe it’s slightly normcore, but you may still wear it as a cowboy like at Versace (see leather bag, crocodile gloves and fur covered motorcycle helmet)!

Grey is beautiful, moody and human. There is nothing better than a luxe, comfortable track suit from Christophe Lemaire or Louis Vuitton. The razor-sharp relaxdness kills me! Every man shows his different shade of grey. So the question is, which one are you?

Raf Simons designed a collection in collaboration with Sterling Ruby. He managed to connect two worlds, fashion and art, in men collection. And he nailed it. Just like my favourite Yohji Yamamoto with his manga themed leather garments! The contrasting prints, smart signs and colour splash is the perfect way to kill normcore (normal hardcore) and be the men of art (and fashion).

This one is strange. And ugly in my opinion. But at the same time, takes men to a new dimension of uniformism- utilitarian vests Prada and Rick Owens; reconstructed and constructed coats at Maison Martin Margiela… this season brings more than excepted to men fashion. And which trend is in your type most?