Men’s: Trend Report AW14

May 31, 2014December 23, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yohji Yamamoto

Boys, we are looking forward towards the new times of fashion! So arty, gloomy, grey and posh- the AW14 season is for all sorts of men. Here, look at the strong five trends that are going to rule in your fall wardrobe.

They were moody, not sombre, said Haider Ackermann about his new season clothes that were all about his Victorian poets, floor length coats swaying through the room and Tchaikovsky chart topper. The fresh mood of men fashion is about dandy gloom that is romantic and attractive. Comme des Garcons had this wet hair look that reminded of gothic ghosts and Philip Lim had some neo-Romantism in it. Do you get that?

Camel coat, camel jacket or a camel parka- whatever, Parisian men think of camel as men’s best-friend. It’s neutral, but looks perfect with sweatpants, leather over-sized pants or elegant trousers. I really want to steal Ami’s look, where the models wore camel with white Adidas and wool sweaters… maybe it’s slightly normcore, but you may still wear it as a cowboy like at Versace (see leather bag, crocodile gloves and fur covered motorcycle helmet)!

Grey is beautiful, moody and human. There is nothing better than a luxe, comfortable track suit from Christophe Lemaire or Louis Vuitton. The razor-sharp relaxdness kills me! Every man shows his different shade of grey. So the question is, which one are you?

Raf Simons designed a collection in collaboration with Sterling Ruby. He managed to connect two worlds, fashion and art, in men collection. And he nailed it. Just like my favourite Yohji Yamamoto with his manga themed leather garments! The contrasting prints, smart signs and colour splash is the perfect way to kill normcore (normal hardcore) and be the men of art (and fashion).

This one is strange. And ugly in my opinion. But at the same time, takes men to a new dimension of uniformism- utilitarian vests Prada and Rick Owens; reconstructed and constructed coats at Maison Martin Margiela… this season brings more than excepted to men fashion. And which trend is in your type most?

Yohji Eggs

April 20, 2014April 22, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Here is a little Easter treat for you all… Yohji Yamamoto’s AW14 looks in eggs! Backround art by Yasuto Sasada.

Trend Report AW14

March 23, 2014November 4, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

As the winter shows for 2014 ended, I must admit- that was the season of elegance. Comparing to SS14, it wasn’t artsy, but it was classical. The pieces are mostly timeless and wearable, while the colour palette is between black and pastel pink to seductive red and safe beige… maybe you may say it sounds boring, but don’t be disappointed- it’s not. Just recall Alessandro Dell Acqua at Rochas, Jeremy Scott at Moschino, Nicolas Ghesquiere at Louis Vuitton, the “relaxing” Marc Jacobs collection or 70′s mad Prada! No. That wasn’t a bad season. It was a season of calmness and femininity.

Cocoon Coat- Large coat means more than a fur this season. And if it’s a cocoon-parachute coat, then it’s even better! It’s warm, practical and artsy- you may wear it the whole winter, forgetting about sweaters, scarves and all others! Kenzo, Chloe, Yohji Yamamoto

Sweet Sixties- This time, the sixties mean biker jackets, leather coats, fur tops and monochrome mini-dresses. The perfect example is Gucci, which was inspired with archival jet-set and timeless pieces… Just like Louis Vuitton which showed as a coat that is already a must-have of the season. Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Victoria Beckham, Saint Laurent

The New Knitwear- Forget your grandma’s sweaters. AW14 is the time of new knits- they may be knotted around your neck, used as trousers, worn like a huge Grizzly bear or styled in a very attractive way. Don’t forget a matchy hand-bag and the Derby shoes! Stella McCartney, Christophe Lemaire, Celine, The Row, Marc Jacobs

Borrowed from the Man- A over-sized masculine jacket is just the right thing this season. But it shouldn’t be worn formally- a skirt giving a leg or a printed shirt will make it feminine and chic. And if you don’t fear the nipple, wear it like Anja Rubik at Anthony Vaccarello! Hermes, Anthony Vaccarello, Haider Ackermann, Maison Martin Margiela, Comme des Garcons

Robe- this is a fresh thing- wear a robe as a coat! Or rather a coat looking like your bath-robe. Surely this option will hit the street style looks and going to dominate everywhere. Simply tie the belt around your waist and go ahead for winter! Marques Almeida, Isa Arfen, Celine, Altuzarra, Moschino

The Queen of Gold- “The color gold is the color of success, achievement and triumph. Associated with abundance and prosperity, luxury and quality, prestige and sophistication, value and elegance, the psychology of this color implies affluence, material wealth and extravagance.” Saint Laurent, Prada, Thom Browne

Red- This color is a warm and positive color associated with our most physical needs and our will to survive. It exudes a strong and powerful masculine energy. Ha. Thomas Tait, Rosie Assoulin, Saint Laurent, Prada, Isa Arfen, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Prabal Gurung, Sacai

Velvet Nights- Velvet is very a ce soir. It was used in sensual gowns, jumpsuits and laser-cut gothic dresses… velvet is surely the fabric you want to wear for Winter. Erdem, Jason Wu, Tom Ford, Chanel

Safari Girl is very sexy- the new girl in panther print is just the right think. Wear an animal printed coat with militaire khaki trousers and heels to make whole Paris yours… Rrrraawwwrrrrrr… Balmain, Givenchy, Isabel Marant, Givenchy,

Pastel Pink- Candy coats, girlie jackets, romantic maxi dresses… and all kept in beautiful, pale pastel pink. It looks perfect even on fur! Just note Marc Jacobs- his fur jackets were a pastel spectrum of apricot, purple and blush… simply cute! Christopher Kane, Delpozo, Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Rochas

Artsy/Craftsy- It’s a bit tribal and a bit Grandma-ish. Presented on dresses, bags and tops, knitwear and hand-made fabrics where kind of everywhere. This trend is cozy and warm… while very chic and elegant! Maki Oh, Louis Vuitton, Suno, Altuzarra, Rodarte

Volume Vs. Sheer- wearing a sheer skirt with a voluminous chunky sweater or huge, huge, huge aviator jacket is just the right thing. Why? It looks a bit elusive and very sexy… and you still can give some leg during winter. Fendi, No.21, No.21, Sacai

Astrakhan- take out your old Astrakhan fur, and wear it like it’s new- maybe it’s not very warm, but looks luxurious, chic and elegant. MSGM used it on masculine coats, and Tom Ford made it… well, Tom Ford. MSGM, Celine, Tom Ford, Miu Miu

Fur is Art- what only did not happen to fur this season- it was in a form of expression for the designers. But most of all, it was very cubical. And surely, colourful. Fendi, 3.1. Philip Lim, Altuzarra, Roksanda Ilincic, Alexander McQueen, Marni

The Perfect Black Coat- I think it’s pretty logical key trend. Who doesn’t want a black coat during winter? And additionally, worn as a dress? And that Celine one with white buttons is a must-have… Celine, Lanvin, Chanel, Dior

Werk Gurrl- Girl, work it out. Sporty chic is back for good in form of parkas, warm jackets, gym sweatshirts and tennis dresses. And, remember that your sport-wear must be colourful. Just like the one from Sacai or Wang… Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Sacai, Alexander Wang, Fendi, Miu Miu

Happy Prints- these circles, stripes and waves just make you smile. Maybe the season was more about elegance and timeless fashion, but these 60′s/70′s prints at Prada are not a bad idea. Acne, Dries Van Noten, Prada, Valentino

Illusion– Hypnotize yourself and your friends with a very magical dress or coat… This psychedelic trend isn’t about 60′s, but about power of illusion. I am already attracted to it like to the whole, AW14 season…

Manga. Yohji Yamamoto AW14

March 1, 2014March 1, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

I am really into Yohji Yamamoto this season. His menswear for fall got me high (all these fantastic coats are on my wishlist!) and now this collection for women… Hypnotic manga fantasies come alive in voluminous cocoon coats and decorated leather, like by magic! Yohji, known for using only black in his collections, said backstage, that many people told, him that he uses too much of black… So he made it again, in his own way- black, huge, huge coats worn with colourful hats; then, again these coats, but with hand-painted yellow roses on! Some kind of eyes, mouths, toys, monsters came across. Acid coloured trolls and one-eyed demons became part of a hypnotic Japanese manga print that adorned enormous goose down padded coats. While hand painted illustrations of astronauts and leopards decorated leather coats. And then, the ‘hair’ was crafted from coloured wool into extreme shapes, like abstract paintings. Each model was marked with black paint around their eyes, like fantasy warriors. That show got really something in it… Maybe because we came to Yamamoto’s genius once again?

Men’s: Marais. Yohji Yamamoto AW14

January 17, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Yohji Yamamoto made me amazed till now after this unexpected print mash-up. The designer who was the lover of black for a decade, made the most colourful, vibrant and beautiful collection for men to date. The AW14 collection is so amazing! The clothes… so over-sized (pants, coats, shirt, blazers) and full of Parisian’s Le Marais spirit! The prints were slightly oriental- flowers and snakes where all here. But still, the black hats, interesting models with colourful hair and the attitude of the collection made it cool boheme. For now- my favourite collection for AW14.