Here is a little Easter treat for you all… Yohji Yamamoto’s AW14 looks in eggs! Backround art by Yasuto Sasada.
Yohji Yamamoto
Trend Report AW14
As the winter shows for 2014 ended, I must admit- that was the season of elegance. Comparing to SS14, it wasn’t artsy, but it was classical. The pieces are mostly timeless and wearable, while the colour palette is between black and pastel pink to seductive red and safe beige… maybe you may say it sounds boring, but don’t be disappointed- it’s not. Just recall Alessandro Dell Acqua at Rochas, Jeremy Scott at Moschino, Nicolas Ghesquiere at Louis Vuitton, the “relaxing” Marc Jacobs collection or 70′s mad Prada! No. That wasn’t a bad season. It was a season of calmness and femininity.
Cocoon Coat- Large coat means more than a fur this season. And if it’s a cocoon-parachute coat, then it’s even better! It’s warm, practical and artsy- you may wear it the whole winter, forgetting about sweaters, scarves and all others! Kenzo, Chloe, Yohji Yamamoto
Sweet Sixties- This time, the sixties mean biker jackets, leather coats, fur tops and monochrome mini-dresses. The perfect example is Gucci, which was inspired with archival jet-set and timeless pieces… Just like Louis Vuitton which showed as a coat that is already a must-have of the season. Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Victoria Beckham, Saint Laurent
The New Knitwear- Forget your grandma’s sweaters. AW14 is the time of new knits- they may be knotted around your neck, used as trousers, worn like a huge Grizzly bear or styled in a very attractive way. Don’t forget a matchy hand-bag and the Derby shoes! Stella McCartney, Christophe Lemaire, Celine, The Row, Marc Jacobs
Borrowed from the Man- A over-sized masculine jacket is just the right thing this season. But it shouldn’t be worn formally- a skirt giving a leg or a printed shirt will make it feminine and chic. And if you don’t fear the nipple, wear it like Anja Rubik at Anthony Vaccarello! Hermes, Anthony Vaccarello, Haider Ackermann, Maison Martin Margiela, Comme des Garcons
Robe- this is a fresh thing- wear a robe as a coat! Or rather a coat looking like your bath-robe. Surely this option will hit the street style looks and going to dominate everywhere. Simply tie the belt around your waist and go ahead for winter! Marques Almeida, Isa Arfen, Celine, Altuzarra, Moschino
The Queen of Gold- “The color gold is the color of success, achievement and triumph. Associated with abundance and prosperity, luxury and quality, prestige and sophistication, value and elegance, the psychology of this color implies affluence, material wealth and extravagance.” Saint Laurent, Prada, Thom Browne
Red- This color is a warm and positive color associated with our most physical needs and our will to survive. It exudes a strong and powerful masculine energy. Ha. Thomas Tait, Rosie Assoulin, Saint Laurent, Prada, Isa Arfen, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Prabal Gurung, Sacai
Velvet Nights- Velvet is very a ce soir. It was used in sensual gowns, jumpsuits and laser-cut gothic dresses… velvet is surely the fabric you want to wear for Winter. Erdem, Jason Wu, Tom Ford, Chanel
Safari Girl is very sexy- the new girl in panther print is just the right think. Wear an animal printed coat with militaire khaki trousers and heels to make whole Paris yours… Rrrraawwwrrrrrr… Balmain, Givenchy, Isabel Marant, Givenchy,
Pastel Pink- Candy coats, girlie jackets, romantic maxi dresses… and all kept in beautiful, pale pastel pink. It looks perfect even on fur! Just note Marc Jacobs- his fur jackets were a pastel spectrum of apricot, purple and blush… simply cute! Christopher Kane, Delpozo, Marc Jacobs, Miu Miu, Rochas
Artsy/Craftsy- It’s a bit tribal and a bit Grandma-ish. Presented on dresses, bags and tops, knitwear and hand-made fabrics where kind of everywhere. This trend is cozy and warm… while very chic and elegant! Maki Oh, Louis Vuitton, Suno, Altuzarra, Rodarte
Volume Vs. Sheer- wearing a sheer skirt with a voluminous chunky sweater or huge, huge, huge aviator jacket is just the right thing. Why? It looks a bit elusive and very sexy… and you still can give some leg during winter. Fendi, No.21, No.21, Sacai
Astrakhan- take out your old Astrakhan fur, and wear it like it’s new- maybe it’s not very warm, but looks luxurious, chic and elegant. MSGM used it on masculine coats, and Tom Ford made it… well, Tom Ford. MSGM, Celine, Tom Ford, Miu Miu
Fur is Art- what only did not happen to fur this season- it was in a form of expression for the designers. But most of all, it was very cubical. And surely, colourful. Fendi, 3.1. Philip Lim, Altuzarra, Roksanda Ilincic, Alexander McQueen, Marni
The Perfect Black Coat- I think it’s pretty logical key trend. Who doesn’t want a black coat during winter? And additionally, worn as a dress? And that Celine one with white buttons is a must-have… Celine, Lanvin, Chanel, Dior
Werk Gurrl- Girl, work it out. Sporty chic is back for good in form of parkas, warm jackets, gym sweatshirts and tennis dresses. And, remember that your sport-wear must be colourful. Just like the one from Sacai or Wang… Louis Vuitton, Balenciaga, Sacai, Alexander Wang, Fendi, Miu Miu
Happy Prints- these circles, stripes and waves just make you smile. Maybe the season was more about elegance and timeless fashion, but these 60′s/70′s prints at Prada are not a bad idea. Acne, Dries Van Noten, Prada, Valentino
Illusion– Hypnotize yourself and your friends with a very magical dress or coat… This psychedelic trend isn’t about 60′s, but about power of illusion. I am already attracted to it like to the whole, AW14 season…
Manga. Yohji Yamamoto AW14
I am really into Yohji Yamamoto this season. His menswear for fall got me high (all these fantastic coats are on my wishlist!) and now this collection for women… Hypnotic manga fantasies come alive in voluminous cocoon coats and decorated leather, like by magic! Yohji, known for using only black in his collections, said backstage, that many people told, him that he uses too much of black… So he made it again, in his own way- black, huge, huge coats worn with colourful hats; then, again these coats, but with hand-painted yellow roses on! Some kind of eyes, mouths, toys, monsters came across. Acid coloured trolls and one-eyed demons became part of a hypnotic Japanese manga print that adorned enormous goose down padded coats. While hand painted illustrations of astronauts and leopards decorated leather coats. And then, the ‘hair’ was crafted from coloured wool into extreme shapes, like abstract paintings. Each model was marked with black paint around their eyes, like fantasy warriors. That show got really something in it… Maybe because we came to Yamamoto’s genius once again?
Men’s: Marais. Yohji Yamamoto AW14
Yohji Yamamoto made me amazed till now after this unexpected print mash-up. The designer who was the lover of black for a decade, made the most colourful, vibrant and beautiful collection for men to date. The AW14 collection is so amazing! The clothes… so over-sized (pants, coats, shirt, blazers) and full of Parisian’s Le Marais spirit! The prints were slightly oriental- flowers and snakes where all here. But still, the black hats, interesting models with colourful hair and the attitude of the collection made it cool boheme. For now- my favourite collection for AW14.
Paris: Day 4
The essential thing today was the Azzedine Alaia boutique on Rue Moussy. It’s connected with the workshop of Alaia and in past the shop was a warehouse of a commercial centre. And… I met Azzedine Alaia and said to him “Hello” and he answeared “Bonjour!” I was really excited about that… The clothes that were made by hand of Alaia and his workers are so beautiful and with such a good quality. I am so happy I was there… And here are some pics from the shop and clothes:
I am still really happy! The next person that I met was… Kate Winslet! OMG. OMG. OMG. That was so nice and short! I didn’t even have chance to take a photo. But here I’ve got a great photo of Lena in Celine, Gucci and Reed Krakoff:
And after I went to Diptyque store that sells candles and creams:
And then… COLETTE! Oh yes! It is a minimalist temple of cult of the ultra trendy Saint Honore. Colette is dedicated to modern high fashion, jewellery, as well as books, magazines and others fashionable objects. And the best part is the T-Shirt section and small articles and culture. Brands like Comme Des Garcons, Thom Browne, Mary Katrantzou, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy, Carven and Proenza Schoulers are there. I bought the Garage Magazine by Dasha Zhukova and the Impossible Project Polaroid Paper. What to say more: I love it as always.
After I was at the Yohji Yamamoto shop and DsQuared2. At the end there was the Chanel shop on Rue Cambon with the Cruise 2013 clothes.
For dinner I had L’Atelier Etoile on Champs Elysees. It was super! I loved it! I ordered four small degustative dishes: chicken with white truffles, black cod, scallops in pumpkin soup, burger with foie gras. Here are photos: PS This restaurant is the most trendy one in Paris and you sit behind a big bar.
Design & Culture by Ed 
