Forever YSL

December 11, 2013December 11, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Since 1961, the YSL logo of the Parisian Maison Saint Laurent is known to everybody, who has something to do with fashion. It was firstly designed by Adolphe Mouron aka Cassandre, who was creating covers for Bazaar and Vogue. This great fashion illustrator designed YSL logo for back then alive Mr. Saint Laurent. It was copied and used for the next decade a lot… Even after Hedi Slimane came to the house and messed up with label’s name! From Yves Saint Laurent, only SL left, and the Yves spirit seemed to die… However, Hedi is smart. For fans who still can’t remember it’s SL today, he did a capsule collection of jewellery and accessories called Cassandre- the pieces got the first logo of this old French fashion house. For me it seems very classical and a bit vintage nowadays, but definitely, worldwide, there are big fans of logomania- for them YSL will be always YSL, no matter what. Logo means LUXURY… Sad that some people still think Gianni is alive and Galliano is still doing splendour at Dior. They don’t really like new changes in fashion because once they bought a full of gems and logos Dior bag, thinking it will be fashionable forever. But, this is not really the case.
P.S. That is going to be funny if Nicolas Ghesquiere (yes, GHESQUIERE, NOT JACOBS) will change Louis Vuitton into simple Vuitton. Millions of bags with LV logo will be in sorrow…

Simbolismo Religioso in Fashion

August 1, 2013January 5, 2024 | Design & Culture by Ed

Very soon I am going to visit Florence, the magical capital city of beautiful Tuscany! As I am now in a Dolce Vita mood, so a bit inspired with Dolce & Gabbana that may not feel so sweet life for a moment, I thought of the religious symbolism in fashion- not of this season, but from 1960 year when Cristobal Balencaiga designed his bridal dress with nuns head dressing inspired hat to Les Novices where Brigitte Bardot stars as a newcoming female nun that just don’t real know what to do and sins a lot there and there… I thought of Sevillas Santa Semanas holiday and the splendor of Vatican church that I truly love! And if Church women would wear Alexander McQueen Pre-Fall 2013, then it would perfectly match at Brugges nunnery. Although it all sounds very good, Kate Moss at W Magazine showed herself as a satan or a witch with sharp claws and vampire teeth… this editorial is very spooky! Just as Kristen McMenamy at opening and closing the Giles AW13 show, wearing a super scary make-up and anglican inspired gowns. As I am not really a religious person, I hope this post won’t make anybody offended. Well, it’s fashion!

Épater Le Bourgeois

June 25, 2013June 25, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

This is the evidence of Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane tradition legacy to Yves style. Even if the AW13 was all about LA grunge chic, there was a huge, archival source- the pink, fluffy fur worn with tights covered of stones, and leather boots. In reality, Yves also loved and many times showed this kind of fur (even in green colour!) in his collections. And it looks as super stylish, as the one from the show! Oh, every day looking deeper and deepernin Yves archives, I feel love to Hedi Slimane working for this house! He is a real fashion revolutionist, breaking rules and kicking everybody’s face!

Belles du Mexique

June 23, 2013April 6, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

While packing, Lena found her beautiful, archival Hermes scarf that is stunning! The Belles du Mexique scarf made of silk with Mexican women dancing in their traditional dresses, is like a huge splash of colours, full of details and fun. Perfect for beach parties and a city escape during summer vacations. And it is so chic! I feel now so “these” times, after seeing this cool piece and the Yves Saint Laurent Style book, full of prints, sexuality and colours! Laisse aller à la plage!

And for a dessert for the top of all- Veruschka in Yves Saint Laurent safari costume! Looks beautiful!

Le Smoking

June 21, 2013November 4, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking look is schanging every season, but always stays black, simple and classical. Even if it is now Saint Laurent by Hedi Slimane! The campaigns of this famous Parisian style looks maybe slightly different (models for example) but usually it’s all about one beautiful women in the Le Smoking and other one totally naked! Just like in 1975, when Le Smoking began to be a bestseller of the master, Yves. After his death, Stefano Pilati came and strangely looking from persepective of now, FORGOT how the Le Smoking should look like! There were some black jackets but there was no this parisian chic thing. Now, when it’s Hedi, after few months later when his AW13 show was presented, I think Hedi Slimane keeps the tradition much better than Stefano! Just check Net A Porter- you look, and mostly we can see the elegant jackets and trousers to the Le Smoking costumes! It’s chick, luxurious and elegant but Ready to Wear! And now this amazing campaign with Cara Delevigne (advertising YSL Baby Doll) with this naked women… This is like a new Helmut Newton work (he took this fabulous pic in 1975 on Rue Aubriot in Paris).

And today (but before Cara) Anja Rubik looks amazing in Le Smoking Slimane photography for his campaign. Here are pics of past Le Smoking campaigns and runway pics from Yves era! Chic, Chic!

And now just one thing… did you see the Louis Vuitton film for Love Magazine presenting top models (Cara, Magdalena Frackowiak…) walking naked in furs around Paris at night? And sitting in a car and doing sexy poses? This film by James Lima did a lot controversy in the media worl, for example that LV accuses prostitution in their campaign! Well… in 1975 Helmut Newton did a controversy with his Smoking campaign and nobody set it’s prostitution. By the way, in 1975 (again) there was this TOTALLY naked (in film Cara wears fur) and there was no real commotion about it. And that was kind of good then? It is good, as well as the film. So for what do the politicians do this commotion? in reality, there is a really short moment when one model show some parts. I think this film is more about fashion and sensuality than about prostitutions. For sure for controversy that Marc Jacobs likes to do…But should we care? I like it, just as the amazing Le Smoking!