As usual, Haider. You steal the spotlight of Parisian Fashion Week, without having a lot of effort. The summer created by Haider Ackermann is all about flesh-tone silks, backless knitwear and come-undone tailorings. Over-sized sweaters, cool vests, beautiful, blush pink trousers and magical, lilac capes- it all felt like a delicate, breezy summer in Paris. Stiff glossy leather belts orbited skin-tone satin tops and sharp, shoulder-skimming playsuits, while gathered chiffon blouses – slashed to the navel, were loosely tucked into low-slung trousers complete with sporty, racing stripes. Fans of the label’s more androgynous cuts will no doubt be inspired by the sleeveless crepe jackets, floor-length trench-coats and waistcoat tops. Haider Ackermann always ends up on my Parisian favourites. And this dreamy, ethereal surely classifies as one of the most wearable creations yet bt Ackermann. In love with the master-layering as much as in the whole collection. J’adore!
Courreges archives where surely somewhere on Junya Watanabe’s SS15 mood-board. The collection is art, not fashion. It’s like Pierre Cardin mixed with the 60’s art and Courreges bright years. The clothes, made from many marerials, like plastic, leather, denim or even latex, was all about geometric shapes, bold colours, and head (face) covers. It was a beautiful break-routine off the “wearable” Paris Fashion Week part, just like the Comme des Garcons collection. And the only better thing than that would be a possibility to wear these “installations” in normal every-day life. Life would be so good then! And happy! But, as the reality part, we can just try the red creepers & white socks combo or some D.I.Y…. but in a more plastic-fantastic Junya version, of course.
The Night Porter was the key to the Yohji Yamamoto SS15. Caps, bras, body uncover, over-sized trousers, helmets- everything felt pretty undiscovered and new to Yamamoto. And at the same time, truly beautiful. With gold shimmer there and there, with some knitting elements and some vintage rug detailing, the collection seriously contrasted with last season’s manga cocoon coats and crazy hair. The dark femininity comes (back) to Yohji Yamamoto’s shows, and we like it.
My favourite Belgian label, A.F. Vandevorst, has just shown a magical collection. Keeping it a bit military, the designer couple introduced beautiful silhouttes and fabric. An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx had come up with a story, about a female pilot flying around the world who parachutes into terra incognita and begins exploring. Which is to say, Vandevorst and Arickx were riffing on parachutes and flight suits, a theme sledgehammered home by the rather extraordinary opening gown of what looked like parachute silk, with a train nearly the length of the runway. The models wore non-chalant gowns, wrapped jackets, red suits, very “natural” head covers and feather embroideries. And these ones were reall amazing. A.F. Vandevorst decorated the whole gown with feathers, making it look couture. But the simple shape of it made it feel (and look) very comfortable. Amazing.