During the Aurora fashion week, I always love how the Russian designers go back to their roots from economical, religious and cultural heritage. This time, for SS15, I felt the love to the super warm and cozy Liza Odnokikh collection. The models, wearing hand-embroidered decorations on their beautiful cotton dresses and shirts, walked not down the runway but down the… thatch floor. Barefoot. That felt as relaxing as Dries Van Noten’s summer that we saw a month ago in Paris. The tapestry shown as flower appliques; the dried heair covers; the mood of a soviet farm. Surely, the collection of this Saint Petersburg based designer is a highlight!
Shadows fell on the girl who had recorded Horses. At a time of deep loneliness she received a package from Antwerp—an exquisite white box tied with black ribbon—like a photograph by Robert Mapplethorpe. She set it on her worktable by the window, laid the ribbons aside, and raised the lid. There, beneath layers of immaculate tissue, were three white shirts. She unfolded and spread them in the light, examining every stitch. I understood that I was not alone. When at long last I stepped back upon the stage, the girl of Flanders brushed the dust from my shoulder, adjusted my collar, and laced my boots. Patti Smith on Ann Demeulemeester.
The WANG-mania touched New York yesterday night, with super fit models wearing sweatpnats and sweatshirts, boxer gloves and baseball helmets. With models like Joan Smalls, Karlie Kloss or Binx Waltaon, the Alexander Wang X HM collection was presented in a huge gym room. The black and grey parkas, dresses and leggins (worn both my men and women) felt like on the right place. Although the collection might feel like a bit colour-less, the WANG logos all around and dynamic silhouttes make the clothes very sporty and very fresh. And surely, that’s going to be the hottest HM collaboration ever. Thoughts?