I won’t lie that during Paris Fashion Week I just can’t wait to see my favourite designers’ work. Haider Ackermann tops the list with Phoebe Philo of Celine, and there is a reason why. There is a small group of designers who really do have their signature and can freely have fun with it, in an unconventional way. Haider is the Belgian master of layering – his talent of styling and mixing clothes is unique. And his spring-summer 2016 outing is one of the most intriguing. This season, his woman had a punk attitude, with fluorescent hair and a classic, biker jacket. “There was leather, velvet, silk, a mix of everything in women who were sexual, fighters. But they weren’t warriors, like all women they were in search of something, so they went out and found it.” The collection was rooted in femininity. I thought that Haider Ackermann’s role-model was an imaginary version of Marie Antoinette, who came across Coachella and Glastonbury. Note the shoes – Cubano boots will be strong next season. The ones with zebra print look so good with the decadent, pink slip-dress above. I can say straight- ahead, that this is my favourite look of the season. It’s just perfect in its acid splashed chaos.
The 3 year tenure at Balenciaga was not only exhausting for the fashion industry, but also for the former creative director of the brand, Alexander Wang. When Nicolas Ghesquiere left, I felt so bad about that fact – his sudden departure was caused by his “uncommercial” vision of the brand. Noting, that Nicolas made Balenciaga relevant for 15 years, and kept it on the best-seller list throughout the time. So, when the brand appointed Alexander Wang, the New York-based designer, it seemed to be a desperate decision, without any sense. Wang, who designs his own, street-inspired label full of apparel, heavy boots and sweatshirts, seemed to be the most unobvious choice. And, he failed to increase Balenciaga’s incomes.
But thankfully, this tedious period at Balenciaga ended this week – Alex is happy he can settle back in New York (he even mentioned in one of the interviews that he is “kind of happy” about having less responsibilities linked with designing four additional collections in Paris). His last collection didn’t have anything to do with Cristobal Balenciaga’s legacy – however, it was a sassy copy of Ghesquiere’s spring-summer 2006 collection for the brand. I was shocked. The same lace, the same sheer textiles – even the dress silhouettes were based on the idea of a nightgown, just like back in 2006. I mean, why couldn’t Alexander do some final, neoprene stuff he loves so much back at his hometown? Believe me, I really felt a relieve when the show ended – this bad joke won’t repeat anymore.
By the way, you surely know who is the newly appointed designer of Balenciaga. When I discovered that, my heart skipped a beat. Yes. It’s Demna Gvasalia. One of the designers behind the uber-cool Vetements. One thing’s sure – expect the unexpected next season.
Isabel Marant‘s spring-summer 2016 looked forward to the wardbrobe of a modern nomad – this season, it’s (again) all about loose tunic tops and over-sized trousers that are more than perfect for the beach. However, I truly loved all the beading details on the coats and flared skirts. The collection was pretty romantic thanks to its appealing slouchiness. These leather mini-dresses and soft baby-pink sweaters make me think of the Parisian lovers and and flirty kisses in front of the Notre Dame. Basically, the Isabel Marant woman is as usual casual and “effortless in everything she does with her clothes” – and surely inspiring for Zara and H&M.