Mary Katrantzou went dinosaurs! But specifically, into the paleozoic era, where the ocean life was forming, creating strange, terrific creatures. And these creatures did inspire Mary for summer. With magnificent embroideries, beautiful fabrics and embellishments, Katrantzou has already proved herself fearless: no ocean too deep, no mountain too high to provide grist for her creative mill. And it was stronger for the fact that she contextualized her technical features with innovative, even strict silhouettes: slipdresses, shirtdresses, shifts and shell tops. Isn’t it all slightly out of reality? All those spooky fish and lizards made me really remind my childhood full of dinosaurs and monsters!
“Contrast,” commented Joseph creative director Louise Trotter, “has always been a big theme for me.” This time, Louise really pushed the opposites, making clogs worn with white, striped socks, suede going with patent leather and making a London based brand feel a bit Japanese. The collection was simply everything nowadays fashion blogger-girls want (note Camille or Pernille)- toned, “ugly” clothes, socks and the minimal mood. A collection highlight, for instance, was the super-simple plonge leather tank dress worn by Sam Rollinson, which exemplified the less-was-more rule here. There were also some great denim pieces, a touch confused by the styling, and the knits and the sheer shirting popped, too. On the other hand, the sculpted sleeves were rather mannered, and the oversizing often came off slack. In the end, though, the show was convincing—you wanted to buy into the attitude. And that was the thing.
Wow. Jonathan Anderson really shocked everybody during his SS15 show. Like, really. And definitely the master of modern adrogeny takes us to a new level of femininity. Me, being slightly bored with Anderson’s minimal, sharp tunics and dresses, thic tres chic (yes, CHIC, at J.W. Anderson) brought something controversial and interesting. With a lot of leather and giving a leg, the whole collection was “hid” under huge, black hats… That was a really beautiful, lady-like moment. Also, the jewellery was good… Wooden buckles and puzzle necklaces are major. Although I am not always a fan of J.W. Anderson collection (like for example last season), I always feel something new will be presented… Is Jonathan the Phoebe Philo of London? Think so. By the way, happy birthday Jonathan Anderson! It’s your 30! And- well- you did yourself a really good present!
Trager Delaney, you’re cool! We’ve got colours, we’ve got doodle prints, we’ve got slides- simply a lot of positive energy. This London based label is created for women which want to feel joy and in the morning, and in the evening. For SS15, TD offers bold green dresses, easy going jackets (not with zipper, but with a knot!) and lovely, graphical blouses. In other words, blitheness!
Brits got that thing, that they like to bring monarchy and opulence to their brand. After last season’s pearly queens at Simone Rocha, we’ve got the colourful princes by Emilia Wickstead. Using modern technologies, the shee, over-sized gowns were presented in pale pink, light blue and toned black. Also, the oranges caught the eye- the classy ball dresses looked totally as for a queen. “I had this vision of a young girl getting dressed up for a night out, dancing in front of the mirror to someone like David Bowie or Bryan Ferry, and very excited at perhaps seeing her crush at the club that night.” So said Emilia Wickstead after her Spring show, summing up the spirit of her youthful collection.